ilogikal1

Brembo's were standard on all UK cars. Imports are different. GT pack includes electric/heated leather seats, BOSE and cruise control. RAYS were optional extras on earlier cars, but became included in the GT pack on later cars - I think it may have been with the facelift, but I'm not certain of that. General consensus seems to be that the HR is the one to go for, but really there are compromises with either so it may just come down to personal preference. Check out the buying guide.

So when are you getting a Mustang then? Psst, if I had the money, I'd have at least one of those myself. Shh, don't tell anyone..

...or a Cayman, BMW or Mustang.

Nah, this is the internet. The internet likes cats, not dogs. Yes, the internet is wrong. Also, I have nothing constructive to add to this thread. Sorry.

They are very good cloths, those orange ones, I seem to have acquired a few of them myself. I think that most people (myself included) associate suds with performance in some degree at some point but I've now used enough different shampoos to know differently - I've tried some that are very sudsy but lack any lubrication (and/or cleaning ability) and vice versa. It's similar to snow foam - thick foam might look pretty but it's no indication of an effective pre-wash. With shampoo I always feel better if there's enough suds to visibly indicate that there's more than just water in the bucket before I touch the paintwork though, anything more is fine but not a necessity for me. Good lubrication is always essential though.

So long as you remember to apply in thin layers, it's an absolute doddle to use. Just keep the layers thin!

Also, I'm just going to leave this here...

I've been unable to wash to Z for a while... until yesterday. The temperatures soared to the dizzying heights of almost 4 degrees, meaning that for the first time in a few weeks, the car didn't look like this; So I managed to give the Z a wash yesterday and test out a product that I haven't used before. Namely; Nanolex say; ...so basically a shampoo that adds protection as it washes. First off, there is a really nice, subtle scent to this quite reminiscent of the Polished Bliss air fresheners - if you don't know what they smell like, 1) you're missing out and, 2) it's a very "aftershavey" scent. The NRS has a similar "aftershavey" scent but less of a 15-year-old-bathed-in-it kind of strength, it's much more subtle. Also it's not the foamiest of shampoos - I used ~25ml in ~12litres of water - there are plenty of suds in the bucket to be fair, but there's very little on the paint. Now I appreciate that neither of these things have anything at all to do with how well a shampoo works, but such things can make a product more/less pleasant to use if these things matter to you. Now onto my process; the car was treated to a Citrus Power pre-wash beforehand which left just a traffic film to clean off. Because I'm still doing (another) wax test on the bonnet, I didn't want the Nanolex to interfere with that so I used Juicy Details Pink Banana Suds on the bonnet (albeit via a slightly different method) first followed by the rest of the car with the NRS. This meant that I was directly comparing the two in terms of actual usage. NRS cleans exceptionally well, even the underside of the rear/sides didn't pose it any problems without being pre-washed so well. It's fairly well lubricated, but I could feel it dragging slightly in places - Juicy Details PBS felt slicker by comparison, but NRS certainly wasn't the worst that I've used either. It's a pretty good shampoo. This brings us to the protection that it leaves behind. I have some comparison shots but you need to remember that the "before" pictures are after just a pre-wash and there's still a traffic film on the car, particularly on the lower sections, which would inhibit the water behaviour. With that said, befores are on top, afters on the bottom, both taken roughly after the same amount of time after risning; The difference between before and after is quite evident on the failing LSP's. The protection it leaves behind is very much a sheeter rather than a beader, the beading is quite flat and unimpressive but it actually takes a bit of effort to get it bead rather than sheet - presumably due to that "high-tech rinsing aid". As you can see from the roof and boot pictures, the sheeting is quite comprehensive (considering I was trying to get it to bead with the hose!). Price wise, it's not cheap at £30 for a litre (or £17 for 250ml) which equates to about 75p (or £1.70) per wash. The pros; It's a good shampoo, It leaves the car pretty much dry (unless you actively try to make it bead!), I really like the scent. The cons; It's not cheap, The obvious comparable product. The obvious comparison being Gyeon Bathe+. Bathe+ is more lubricated, cleans just as well, leaves much more pronounced protection and is cheaper. Whilst I did quite like this shampoo, it would, frankly, be foolish to choose NRS over Bathe+.

It was the shark, wasn't it?

Ah, fair enough then. Poorboys is typically about £14 and FK £18 (plus postage, where applicable obviously) from most places. That place is obviously offsetting the cheap Poorboys with the FK. If it's any consolation, you get nearly twice as much FK as you do Poorboys, so price per gram it's worth the extra. Also, FK is more than twice as good. And it has a shark on the tin. A shark!

Don't forget to give the calipers a coat whilst the wheels are off too. £8?? Where did you get it from? It should only be £4 more.

Don't be silly, it's in the "Wanted" section. He's asking if we want to need some side skirts, obviously.

It's great for the exhaust once it's polished up and it's good on paintwork too if you like the "sealant look". The size of the tin, it can even be handy around the house too. Even my jack, axle stands and tool box have a coat of FK on.

That's questionable.

My counter-argument is that you can get about 6 weeks out of 3 layers of Poorboys to the 10 from 1 layer of FK. To be quite honest Poorboys isn't a bad product at all, if you don't mind topping it up every month or so then it certainly has it's place. It's just that there are better products available these days - more so when one of the requirements is longer durability. If you've got Poorboys and you're happy with it, just use that until it needs to be replaced and then maybe consider something else but in this case it doesn't fit Spatt's requirements at all (neither does FK though, to be fair). FK is quite versatile though, so it saves needing 2 or 3 products for 2 or 3 jobs... unless you're like me with my addiction to buying detailing stuff, then you end up with 4 or 5 products for 1 job. That's also a moot point if you've already got those 2 or 3 products of course.

A test showing Poorboys lasting less than 4 weeks whilst FK1000P lasting 10 weeks... before I accidentally killed it with fallout remover.

Focus.

This reference earns you one free internet! As you were.

To those who use Poorboy's Wheel Sealant; I'm just going to leave this here.

Yes, Platinum Wheels, Platinum Glass and the old Platinum Paint are just rebranded - not that there's anything wrong with that of course, but it means the products have the same flaws. I believe that Oracle (replaced Platinum Paint) is different/modified/made to their (his) own specification though.

Gyeon Rim can be used on polished surfaces. You can wax over the top of it, but there's very little point and it'll diminish the self-cleaning abilities of a coating doing so. The shine will come from the polishing beforehand, but Rim does add extra glossiness itself. Carbon Collective is C5 too, by the way.

Depends what you're after really; A cheap, effective solution = wax. Which actually means FK1000P. Will last ~3months between applications (unless you use wheel cleaners regularly) and can be used on all other painted surfaces too. Maximum durability = coating. GTechniq C5 or Gyeon Q2 Rim for ~12months protection. /thread.

On top of Graham's useful list of links above, I'll just add that you can find the comma located next to the "M" key. If you use that occasionally, it'll make your posts much easier to read and my head explode less... at least one of those reasons justifies it's use.

No squeak with my DS2500's, either on the Z or the ones on my previous car.