brillomaster

just cos i'm confused, are these 17" or 18" wheels? also what tyres have you got for them?

If you pay me the £200, i'll tell you my top secret three hints for car safety in low grip conditions.

which I bet will be streets ahead of even MPSS if any snow falls or the temperature drops below zero!

is the clutch actually slipping, or did it just slip once on the often difficult 1st to 2nd gearchange? I only ask, cos i'd consider 39,000 miles really quite low for a clutch replacement! my clutch still felt fine on 70k miles when I sold my car, and there will be many more that have done more than that. do you know how its been driven for those 39k miles? if its lots of town driving/slipping the clutch uphill in traffic, then maybe. I mean, admire the intentions of sorting it before selling it, but unless you're absolutely sure it needs doing i'd leave it, and perhaps give a new buyer a discount off the sales price. Actually i'd go even further than that, if I was buying a car that had done 39k and it had already had a clutch change, i'd seriously wonder how it had been driven in those 39k miles!

been on a few 'car control' days back with my mx5, though it wasn't any really training day, just a coned course in a car park where drifting was encouraged! but great fun. yep any kind of training would be great, not sure how useful it would actually be in the real world, but definitely do something if your company is paying for it!

good news about winter tyres is... pretty much any winter tyre will be miles better in cold temps than any summer tyre. to that end, i'd certainly consider midrange stuff like Avon, Kumho, Hankook (IMO, premium brand, midrange prices), Nokian... Also, you have to consider that if you buy winter tyres, your summer tyres will last twice as long as they aren't being used between November - March.

surely a 350 with decent tyres, brakes and suspension would be faster than a standard 370z around the majority of UK tracks? perhaps tracks with long straights a 370z might be able to pull out a second or two gap with the power advantage, but as soon as you brake or corner the better tyres and brakes will be far more important.

Its not exactly the same engine as a zed, it has been updated for the 2016 application. http://wardsauto.com/10-best-engines/2016-winner-nissan-35l-dohc-v-6 on a side note, nice to see a 3 litre BMW straight 6 engine taking the top spot

+1, job done.

without going into too much detail, i'd just stick with the standard 45 profile.

if you've got a JDM car, then you NEED to get an exhaust first, since JDM cars are even quieter than UK ones. Put it this way - bigger wheels you'll notice for the 10 seconds you are walking to your car. But an exhaust you appreciate every time you put your foot down, which is a lot longer, and a zed with a decent exhaust note is a glorious thing! And also, who cares what other people think of your car? Cobra resonated for £450, still leaves £550 in budget for wheels later on.

yep you'll be fine then. this is the guide I use, which states a 245/45/18 can go comfortably on any rim width between 7.5" and 9". http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2009_V2_Tyre_Size_to_Wheel_Size_Compatibility_Guide.pdf

what wheels did you buy exactly? guessing they weren't from a zed? or perhaps more importantly, what width rims did you buy? normal zed wheels are 8" front, 8.5" rear, but if you've got 8" front and rear, you'd still be able to fit the standard sizes of 225/45 and 245/45.

have you got any exhaust modifications? most common cause for a CEL is the post cat sensor as a result of having a decat fitted.

i think the website says everything you need to know: Fuchs Titan Race Pro S (formerly Silkolene Pro S) is simply one of the best quality engine oils there is! It's a premium, ester / PAO based fully synthetic motor oil formulated to give maximum margins of protection during periods of fast road or competition use. Pro S was previously available under the Silkolene brand - the engine oil of choice for motorists demanding a premium, ester synthetic engine oil. Pro S has now been re-labeled as Fuchs Titan Race Pro S and offers the same outstanding formulation. and of silkolene: The following information applies to both Silkolene Pro S and the rebranded Fuchs Titan Race Pro S product. During the change-over period, you may receive either Silkolene Pro S or Fuchs Titan Race branded product. so i'd say they were identical - fuchs stuff may be slightly newer, not that that would make a huge difference to a factory sealed container of oil.

advise on getting new friends if you're current ones are stay at home corrie watching ball scratchers.

Send hodaka a picture and he'll photoshop you some examples im sure.

Alrighty, booked in for Blyton Park on 24th September with Javelin. still plenty of places left if anyone fancies coming along in a zed (or anything else for that matter!)

you do on new tyres! they really are cack until they've been run in! i'm sure half of the bad reviews on the internet saying 'I've just fitted xxx tyres and they're absolute s*#t, way less grip than my old budget xxx tyres' is because they've been giving it the beans right from the off without giving them a chance to run in.

as above wheel size isn't the important factor, its the rolling circumference of the tyres you have fitted. They might be confusing the wheel speed with tyre pressure monitoring systems, which work out if a tyre is deflated by how quickly its rolling relative to the other wheels, and would need to be reset if the rolling radius changes. But again, if the tyre is correctly sized for the new larger wheel, the number of rotations a wheel does will be equal on 18s and 19s. And my zed didn't have TPMS anyways!

try a few different dynos, i'm sure one of them will give you a piece of paper with 300 on it but to be honest that sounds about right for an na engine - cams are the only thing I can think of, or try and get the rev limit raised by a few hundred rpm if the engine will take it.

I used to have mine set to 6000 or something, but I found it very unnerving to be giving it the beans and suddenly have a red light start rapidly flashing at you - red lights are normally bad! so after that I set it to 7200, which essentially turned it off entirely (500rpm before limit it starts flashing, then at limit it switches to solid on).

its definitely new tyres! when I had new fronts fitted, did 40 miles along the motorway to Dudley then when I got to a roundabout they still understeered like a pig. i'd give new tyres some 200 miles of normal driving before they're performing optimally. Although strangely fitting brand new track tyres, put them on the car for the first time during lunchbreak at rockingham, and within one lap they were bedded in fine and returning lap times 3 seconds faster than we were doing in the morning sessions :S

ah right you are! yep that'll be a lot easier

what colours are left if you don't want black, bronze, silver or polished? are you looking for something white or neon? or does it have to be a dark grey/anthracite type colour?