scobie140

different!

What he said ^^ Pretty easy job. I took my subframe off and gave it a good clean up and a hefty coat of black hammerite to help ward off rust for a little longer. If you can get a shot of an impact gun I'd recommend it as it will make your life easier for stripping them off.

Cheers for the offer of the cats, That would have been the quick solution but its a custom system all welded up I'll drop you a pm.

New alternator fitted & faulty wire replaced and she's running sweet again. Mot all good until it failed on emissions (CO2) 6 attempts on the emissions and still no joy. Tried ragging the car to get the sports cats red hot, tried redex and ragging still no joy. So until I can find a "friendly" tester its back off the road. If I had the foresight many years ago when getting the exhaust system made up I'd have went de-cat with a section made up after the Y piece to swap a cat in for Mot's.

I've just re read my topic from when I did it, It was the indicator! I could have swore it was the brake, to be fair it was 3 year ago haha Page 2 on the link below

When I did it the wiring diagram I had was wrong, It had me splice into the brake light not the reverse. It wasn't till I stamped on the brakes in frustration at it not working that I found the error when the camera then turned on

Good test. How on earth have you managed to amass such a big collection of fall out remover though?

Would the extra rpm that the alternator & power steering pump would see not be an issue to consider also?

The oil pump draws from the oil pan so I would have thought that's the most accurate place to take from? That's where I've stuck mine

Just went for patent part, I've still got the original so might overhaul that and take a punt on the regulator then get it tested and keep it as a spare.

To be honest if it was clear what the right part is required it would be a doddle to change out. I ended up just getting a new alternator as the bushes were a tad worn aswell and its a bit of a ball ache to change out since the car is boosted so should never need done again in my ownership.

Currently have this stripped out, In their wisdom the is no part numbers on the regulator so might take a punt on this but not keen on waiting on the shipping https://www.aspwholesale.com/alternator-rebuild-kits/mitsubishi/internally-regulated/repair-kit-p15447.html

I've found this in states but they don't ship to the uk http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/alternator-kit-for-2003-2006-fx35-350z-regulator-brushes-bearings-a3tg0191.html It reads like its the right kit Struggling to find the same from a uk supplier

I would have thought there would be general overhaul kits for the different types of alternator containing bushes, bearings, regulator etc but all I could find was random individual parts and I'd have to strip mine down to find out what individual parts were in it. So far I've found http://www.startermotor-alternator-store.co.uk/nissan-350z-alternator---2003--a3601-5774-p.asp which is a recon with a 12 month guarantee @ £137 or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Engine-Electrical-Alternator-12V-110A-Amps-Replacement-Part-Lucas-LRA03601/401489662469?epid=2068610240&hash=item5d7aa61205:g:dyIAAOSw5RRaetCx is £235 new Lucas one 12 month guarantee. I'd rather get an overhaul kit for it though as there's not much to them and would be cheaper. I'll need to pull the trigger on something soon as it's put the car back off the road. I'll hold out until tomorrow and see if anyone else has refurbed one before

Has anyone got any details on overhaul kits for 04 alternators? I've Had a look online but nothing has came up. My voltage is all over the place and a auto electrician said it will be the voltage regulator. I've had it bench tested but it worked fine in the test and for about 30min after refitting to the car and is now tempeamental.

Ahh cheers I'll ask Chris at dynatune when i'm through for a check up on my map if they are disabled, that would make life easier as then I can do it all myself without any welding.

I'm running a supercharger and have high flow cats, It looks like it would be a night mare for access to get the bung in and welded in front of the cats. I'll need to have a better look next time I'm under the car and see how easy this is going to be.

Cheers, sounds simple enough. I can fit it all and run the cables then just need to get someone to weld on the bung for me. Where is the best place on the system to have the sensor fitted?

Cheers it's on my to do list for this year for a little extra peace of mind. Are they hard to wire up? is it just a case of running a power supply to the unit then running the cables from the sensor to the gauge?

Looking for recommendations on for a wide band sensor. I've found this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AEM-X-Series-Wideband-UEGO-AFR-Sensor-Controller-Gauge-30-0300-AEM-Wideband/122557750457?epid=1652230613&hash=item1c8902dcb9:g:inwAAOSwk4taslec Any good?

I have the kinetix v+ never really gave me any issues, I'm now pushing it by running it boosted and still no issues.

Knew something was up! Some strange noises coming from the front of the car and it feeling sluggish every now and then with the voltmeter readings jumping from 11V to 14V on the gauge constantly until it gave up and just sat at 11.5V with the battery light on. It sounded like the alternator pulley was sticking. My immediate thought is alternator. So stripped the alternator off. What a ball ache that is when the car is boosted, so much extra stuff to strip. And why make the holding bolt so long! Strangely it spins freely and feels fine this is at hands speed though so not quite replicating the 1000+ rpm I'll get it tested on Monday and hope its faulty and that’s the problem solved, if not I'll need to rebuild it and get an auto electrician to have a look at it. Not looking forward to the refit either way

Is that not just a cover for access to the chamber covers?

Cheers for the pic Given me some food for thought. I just winged it with my design, only thing I measured was the distance between the holes in the strut brace @evilscorp when you fitted yours did you pre load the bar under compression or leave it with a little play? After a few trial and errors this is how I've left it for now. Battery is dead so never run it up to see if it's any better or not. I can't see the 2nd bracket doing much for the sound deadening as it will still be metal to metal same as the top bracket. I think I'll turn the bar down a bit as its a bit ott and i'll make another bracket for the strut bar with the hole further out so I can mount the rose joint underneath it and keep it sitting squarer. Probably replace the nut I've used as a spacer with a proper spacer.

New bearings arrived Shaft stripped and cleaned up New bearings fitted. All rebuilt and fitted. The bracket now transfers the noise of the supercharger straight into the chassis and into the cabin Looking for advice from other with a similar set up via the thread below. Left it running on the drive for 20min then drove it to work. Was good to have its first drive since November, never pushed it really just taking it easy and re acquainting myself with all the weird noises that the vortech brings with it. Felt a bit sluggish, could be cause its running on fumes that has been in the tank for 5 month, possible boost leak from having the pipework off recently. The belt was starting to slip a little I think on the way home so will tighten that at some point soon. I'm not overly worried just now and won't push it until Chris has had a play with her to see if she needs any adjustment since the last tune. Busy period at work for the next month but once my order from opie oils arrives I'll get her serviced then booked in with Chris at dyna tune to give her the once over & then get booked in to get the alignment sorted.