Southernspeed

Even if your not doing the mileage you really ought to get your brake and clutch fluid changed as they deteriorate with age.

Surely it's switchable? So you can run on LPG or petrol ? I personally would be concerned about running an engine like this on LPG due to how hot they can run but I guess they can be mapped to run properly. I'd be inclined to talk to (for example) Mark at Abbey Motorsport about running a multi map system so you can switch to petrol and a performance map then to LPG and a suitable map. These engines seem to (in my limited experience) really suffer consequences from over or under fuelling. Talk to a tuning pro, engines rebuilds are expensive!!

Interesting stuff. Can it achieve better quality sound than just sitting there 'fiddling' for a while?

If you get ten minutes spare perhaps you could explain, in non techno form!, what exactly the Imprint thing does and it's advantage. I've been told basically it's a self set up sound system but know no more.

I use the iXA-W407BT which is a great unit BUT if you're going to use it to connect by bluetooth to an iPhone (not sure about other phones) you HAVE to run a separate constant live instead of using the Bose loom constant live.

Watch the end too

Replace the clutch hose, just from personal experience! Mine may have been an exceptional failure but Mark will advise you of any common problems.

Replace the clutch hose, just from personal experience! Mine may have been an exceptional failure but Mark will advise you of any common problems.

hmm... mine was tested on a rolling road, didn't know there was a problem re: the diff. All my vehicles (American) that have had lockers ATB and LSDs have been done on a rolling road. "He told me that the rolling road testing machine is the judge and jury on the matter regarding brake loads, efficiency and balance. If the discs (rotors?) and pads are knackered but the car passes the rolling road, all he can do is issue an advisory." If the pads are worn below their minimum or the discs are worn/cracked etc it will fail regardless of brake efficiency .

Good advice from Sized. Bit of a drive but premium quality work from a team that KNOW Z's inside out, whether it's street or race. Ask them about a courtesy car too to make it easier.

I think this was the case 2008-2010 but 2nd and 3rd gen models are limitless. If you do several launches in a row, the car will temporarily disable the launch but it reactivates after a few miles of driving. http://www.exoticsandluxury.com/warrant ... ranty-safe Then I stand corrected

In all videos of the GTR in a head to head race, the GTR kicks every things arse off the line but as far as I'm aware, if you use the 'launch control' you void your warranty , though I stand to be corrected.

Don't start an engine strip on the word of an exhaust fitter! get someone who know's Zs to listen/look. Good luck with it, let's hope it's something simple. Who are you taking it to? Main dealer or indi?

Christmas wishes to the whole Abbey team. Have a great break!

Hope it wasn't Mark from Abbey! ....he's in America!

CEL on = fault thrown, CEL flashing = stop driving! Bad fault. Check it out before driving any more.

I believe Mark has now proved this incorrect and that it is as described in a recent post that the throttle butterfly doesn't follow the pedal per % but it does make 100% open. Kind of like opening the throttle with a bungee chord!

My first thought too.

Abbey again. Family run business with a really good crew. Add to that that they run the fastest Jap engined (stock block'd and headed 3500cc Z motor) dragster in Europe and you know you're dealing with professionals who know Z's and GTR's inside out (they're also damn good mechanics full stop, so you're safe taking any car/van there) and of course courtesy cars are a major benefit !

....this morning about 7.30. Looked like there was something very low under your car but could've been a trick of the shadows. I was in my shed, beaten up mauve Vectra

Can't argue with any of that!

If it's a stock one, lube it then twist it up the the max of it's arc movement and it should slip out ok. If it's after market look for the wire release clip. They claim to know the weight of spoilers so should do you the right pressure strut.

Well i connected the ignition live to the perm and it works but keeps everything on all the time so cant leave it that way. Didn't see what attaching the perm live to battery would accomplish after doing the above. Surely if that worked it shows a weakness in the constant live so a better constant live (direct from the battery) would fix it? Like I said earlier, just try a wire direct from the battery through your open door and onto the loom constant live connection. If it works, route it properly, if it doesn't you've wasted 5 minutes and have ruled out one possible problem.

So did you try a direct live from the battery?