Southernspeed

Any weight saving in rotating masses will help the engine spin up faster. Go too far though, like a really light flywheel for example and you can effect idle smoothness and lose engine braking, but's quite extreme lightening.

You have a dual mass flywheel which, when they wear, can be quite noisy. It could be that the spring is worn,cracked. I occasionally have a bit of clatter on start up but never switching off.

As said, if your rpm are rising but not your road speed, you've worn your clutch out.

2 outside Cafe Italia tonight, coupe and a roadster. Did you pull?

All red! Looks stunning in the first photos. Love the interior too.

How long does it take to get these sort of results?

Weird hammers!

I really hope, for every road user's sake but especially motorcycles and cyclists, that those side windows aren't as black as they look in the photo!

Have you tried resetting it? That's worse than mine!

How come yours is automatically off? Have you had some sort of mod done to keep it off?

i guess with experience its a more enjoyable drive with it off, think il wait until I'm use to how the 350 drives/reacts before i start playing lol Unless you're really trying, nothing happens too quick in the dry though in the wet it's very tail happy with only moderate throttle. I'm very 'mechanically sympathetic' and hate all this 'high revs, dump the clutch' stuff but can still have fun driving reservedly

I always turn mine off. Mainly because, when I first got the car, several times I'd 'nip' out of a junction only to have it cut in and leave me bogged down in front of approaching traffic. I'd much rather have a bit tyre chirp or , if I'm feeling playful, a bit of fish tailing than having it cut in as it is rather sensitive and very abrupt. But having said all that, you have to judge your own driving skills as to whether you can drive with it off or not.

and heads

and starring my feet at 1:40 There's some great footage of it on Bramsracingtv. And the owner driver is also a member here! viewtopic.php?f=3&t=54057 Well worth getting up the Pod to watch next year!

Nice results!!

The little Suzukis are very light, good 4 wheel drive system and cheap. Don't get anything with silly sized wheels on though. But unless you have to deal with very deep snow in your area just get a cheap front wheel drive car, fit winter tyres and carry a set of chains with you.

Got to be worth a look. I paid nearly that for my 54 plate earlier in the year!

Also bear in mind that although the rev limiter will help protect the engine when accelerating , changing down at high revs will spin the engine way faster than it's designed to withstand. Changing down is putting a direct mechanical connection from the back wheels to the crank, multiplied by the gearbox. It also stresses the engine (and all the drive train) in the opposite direction than what it is used to. ie: the piston are being wrenched downwards rather than being pushed downwards. A lot of engine failures in racing occur when the throttle is lifted, not at WOT.

It has been known to happen

.... in a rather clean black coupe in Banstead High Street, 9.30 this morning. How come my car doesn't sound that smooth and quiet? No clutch/trans noise at all

Welcome! Mine runs noticeably smoother in V power compared to regular. I'll let someone else answer as to whether a reset would be beneficial.

Really interesting read

Oh no, PJ will kill me if I even show any interest in this thread hmmm... could sell one of the bikes.......

@*!# happens. My girlfriend is an amazingly confident and fast driver but still has mishaps. I baby my Z with regard to the body, wheels etc but still kerbed a wheel when parking. There is also a local 'defining authority' ace tuner I know ( no names) who's wife to be (seemingly) regularly whacks his (sorry ... their's) Z's splitter and rims I'm sure she feels as bad as you do about it (if she doesn't, poke her in the ribs hard). Could be worse

Not good having 1 significantly lower than the other. A problem for sure but could still just be head work. Perhaps a tight valve clearance has let a valve burn out. Mark can check with a borescope and leak down test anyway so don't go buying an engine before you've had it properly diagnosed!