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Everything posted by Tricky-Ricky

  1. OK quick exsplanation, the VQ as we know has a feed line from the pump/tank only, fuel pressure is controlled by the semi intelgent pump, The reason for fitting a regulator is when going FI, as the std pump cannot compensate for large changes in engine load that FI creates. So the general trend is to add a return and regulator to control the fuel pressure when the extra demand of the FI calls for it, so the regulator sits at the end of the fuel rail and restricts the flow back to the fuel tank maintains a pre set pressure, the regulator is also connected to the plenum by a vacuum line, and when positive pressure is made, the regulators internal diaphragm automatically increases the fuel pressure in line with the boost pressure maintaining the correct fuel flow for the injector demand at boost. Suffice to say for normal N/A use on the VQ a regulator is not needed unless the power iis increased beyond the pumps normal control range.
  2. That's going to upset the lay line community..... probably trigger the apocalypse by disturbing the earths power grid
  3. When fitting a regulator, you normally have the regulator on the return side of the fuel rail, so a feed from the tank/fuel pump to the fuel rail an the regulator at the end of the fuel rail to maintain pressure, then the return line to the tank. I can only presume that with the VQ setup, the original feed line is kept and the regulator will be fitted to the other end of the fuel rail before being returned via the FPR to the tank.
  4. Well as you can see i have finally managed to get some paint on the frame, and now the engine is back in, and other bits will soon follow, just a case of waiting for some parts to arrive, and some haven't even been ordered yet, and i still have to re make the seats, but it wont be long now, just got to try and string it out until the warmer weather gets here, more progress pics to follow.
  5. As the saying goes....there's no replacement for displacement, however you can do the same with FI or good volumetric efficiency, BUT the low down and wide spread of torque from a big displacement motor is as nice if not better than the turbo rush IMO, and my personal favorite...........BHP is how fast you go, but torque is how fast you get there.
  6. What you have seen can never be unseen...........................................................
  7. Oh! and the one i forgot....pajamas in the middle of the day...seems to be a Norfolk thing, strangest thing i have ever seen when i first moved here was somebody cutting their grass on a freezing cold, frosty day wearing a dressing gown and pajamas.
  8. Skinny suits...why oh why? you either look like a matchstick man if your slim, or a fat duffer if you have any meat on your bones, mind you somebody my age in a skinny suit would be rather sad anyway, not that i ever wear a normal one, other than for weddings, funerals or court,.
  9. If he was, it certainly explains why its thrown a rod, it would have been detting its tits off being bounced off the limiter, as the VQ has no knock control over 5K RPM.
  10. Although the rods are weak and FI is often a cause of breakage, det even on an N/A will and often does cause rod failure due to the unnatural forces at work during det, so yes a bad map or knock sensor failure, or even wrong or bad fuel can cause this.
  11. That's a shame, my money would be on a rod failing as they are the VQs weak point, engine swap wise i would go for an LS as they are already mounts and kits available for the Z.
  12. Yeah its fun, always happy when I'm building something...trouble is i have a lot more aches and pains these days....be OK if i was a masochist. Colour is going to be satin black, going away from pretty bikes.
  13. Quality wise, its just alloy tube and silicone joiners, cant really see how this is different from buying separately....its just a tube for sucking low pressure air, its not like its got to hold up to high boost pressures.
  14. Engine and frame have now parted company, the engine has had a wash and the frame is now getting some brackets removed and others re positioned ready for paint, I have been pondering on what to do about the pipes,, i like the three into two high level look but since i will be moving the passenger foot pegs, the design has to be wife friendly, i was going to make them really short, as i am also fitting a hydraulic clutch conversion, which make the slave run right next to the pipes, but i think i will just shield the cylinder instead, and keep my fingers crossed that it doesn't over heat it. Nifty little thing though, fits just right in place of the cable and retains the original adjustment. Last pic is me trying out an idea with some old fork stanchions, and i have managed to find some slightly shorter turn out extensions on the net complete with baffles for £50, which should with the heat shield i made work OK for the pillion...i hope!
  15. I bought one pretty much the same as this, although i am sure they where about £50 when i bought one. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-350Z-Z33-G35-2003-2005-COLD-AIR-INTAKE-INDUCTION-FILTER-KIT-/112163586770?hash=item1a1d7882d2:g:F1QAAOSwNRdX~FLY
  16. I just bought an adapted one of the ebay long induction kits....i would suspect it would work out far cheaper then buying separately.
  17. Quick update, got a few bits through, so far have cut down the old fat back mudguard, and fitted one of the Harley bobber type LED under the fender rear lights, also got a new brake master cylinder to fit under the gearbox, also have one of those cheap Chines chain tensioners to make up and weld a bracket for, and see how long it lasts...not convinced so far. Also bought a little plastic front mudguard, which should just fit with a little cutting down, so in all i recon i have shead around 30lbs off the weight in all. Just got to cut a piece of stainless pipe for the turn outs, and then the motor can come out and i can give it a good clean and then get on with some bracket welding on the frame, and then hope for slightly warmer weather so i can get on with some spraying.
  18. The thing about knock or pre ignition is that although there are a lot of factors that can contribute, but on a std setup the ECU combined with the knock sensor will detect knock and pull some ignition timing and add a little fuel to combat most do a very god job, but the DE ECU does not monitor knock after 5,000 RPM so its a risk if you want to use high RPM/WOT when using lower obtain fuel. The rest of the time it should be OK, the only problems occur when the std ECU is not capable of retarding the timing enough, or add fuel, a plug change could help but it wont stop det if its due to pre ignition IE when the mixture ignites due to hot spot with in the cylinder, and or the flame front ignites ahead of the ignition point because of low obtain/high compression, this is the main cause of damage from detonation.
  19. Since std knock control runs out after 5K RPM i would limit to that.
  20. Personally i would just fit a spacer, as the only difference is going to be the hight, the std item is very plain so nothing to redesign there, i would save your money and just go for a spacer, the only place i can see any gains to be had is a flow bench redesign of the lower plenum.
  21. LOL! you don't say!..........night shift, insomnia or night on the beer?
  22. Oh dear! sounds a bit like a flat we had......we had 12 leaks in five years from the flat above, and two of those where the toilet! shonky landlord owned it, caused us no end of problems and insurance claims,
  23. Is there any advantage in your experience of a particular metal that helps avoid pre ignition? Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Metal type has no influence on pre ignition, its heat range , mixture ,fuel type and ignition timing that will affect pre ignition or det, However i have had experience of certain makes of iridium being rather fragile when it comes to det taking place. All plugs actually have a copper core, its just the electrode outer that affects longevity, and as mentioned they go from so called copper, to iridium. Ah right. I just remembered reading that one of the causes of pre-ignition can be a superheated (for want of a better word) plug (essentially acting like a hotspot in the chamber). Wondered if certain metal was more thermally resistant or something. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Yes it can happen if you fit the wrong heat range plugs for the engine perimeters/conditions so the cooler the heat range of the plug, the less chance of detonations occurring, given all other conditions are optimum, but its more common for det to occur from hot spots within the combustion chamber, or the flame front occurring before the ignition point. Your original question was answered, IE what plugs to fit, you said you have the correct heat range copper plugs, so these can be fitted no problem, but if you want to not have to change them after 10K miles, then fit platinum, which will last up to 20-30K miles, or if you fit iridium then they can last up to 60K miles, there is no performance gains to be had by fitting precious metal electrode plugs. However if your planning a remap, and have all other mods in place, its quite common to fit one grade colder plugs, std in NGK is 5 so fitting a 6 is fine.
  24. Its the whole plug design that influences its heat range, the amount and location of the electrode in relation to the ceramics is the factor that determines how quickly or slowly it will dissipate heat, thereby establishing its working temperature.
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