Tricky-Ricky

Me too! although I guess there will always be thieving scum.

Anything that gets air from outside the car is going to help, that's why the std air box is probably the best option unless you want to come up with a better air box and feed design yourself, if you notice the small difference in performance with colder air, then it may be worth you fitting a water injection system, however to get the best from it would probably need mapping for. I was originally going to fit a WI system but decided I wouldn't really notice enough to make it worthwhile.

I have fiber at just over 37mbs, and stream UHD/4K from Netflix with no problem.

Doh! why didn't you say so to start with.

From experience with other cars running big turbos, 60-90c at the oil filter housing is too cool, apart from the temp usually showing hotter at the filter due to the oil gallery routing IE close to the head, the sump temps will normally be lower than this, I would remove the cooler for now,(you may get away with it in summer, but IMO you really need some form of cooling temp control) as you should be and need to see oil temps of around 100c in order to burn off water vapor and other contaminate acid compounds, running lower will keep all these in suspension, but don't take my word for it, have a read up on oil temps and properties.

I presume you have a scavenge tank? I guess its OK but if the cooler is too efficient it will over cool the oil which is not good, what about when its sucking air when its pulling more than the turbo supply, wouldn't have thought frothing is a good idea. What sort of oil temps are you seeing, and where are they measured?

Don't worry too much about back pressure, N/A exhaust design is more about pulse reversion, and extraction effect, so its really the first 1/3 of the system that has the most effect, that one of the reasons decats help with power, granted fitting highly restrictive back boxes will not help, but it more the design than restriction, unlike turbocharging where the biggest restriction is the turbo so everything after than benefits from as little restriction as possible.

Like most OEM water temp gauges they tend to be an approximation of the actual temp IE the mid position covers quite a wide temp range, to avoid panicking your average driver, I would always fit a decent aftermarket gauge/sender, especially if going FI, but the oil temp would be my first priority.

Yes definitely fit an oil temp gauge, as you could be well within reasonable temps, and don't forget oil that's too cool is just as bad as too hot.

AFAIK pump pressures and pump speed is controlled by load, so I would guess that there is plenty of headroom in the std pump, and although there is only 25 to 30BHP max available from the std methods of tuning, an old pump could in theory not keep up, but generally the pump is only changed when going FI.

To be honest there is very little extra strain put on the pump form the minimal tuning that can be achieved with the N/A, pump speed is ECU controlled unlike the FPR on a turbo car, and the usual two speed circuit. I guess for piece of mind you could replace but there is no real need to uprate.

I wouldn't be fitting a cooler to a supply that just fed by a scavenge pump, apart for it being likely to pick up air which wont help things, I doubt the pressure/flow rate would be enough to be reliable, As said you will also need a thermostat to control temperature. Are you seeing high oil temps? I would have thought that having a sump/tank for turbo drain would be providing some cooling effect?

Anything that will dampen the noise will be a restriction to some degree, a well designed exhaust system will still provide a power increase when paired with decats, but its the decats that provide the main gains.

A so called engine damper will do nothing but transmit more vibration and noise through the bodywork, most consist of a shaft with a lump of hard rubber either side of a nut, which is held within a tube, if you must fit one then at least find a genuine oil or gas filled damper and fabricate some mounts, the only cars I have know to have this type of damper fitted are older BMWs.

Blatantly pinched from another forum, but very interesting non the less. I've been looking at getting a set of pressed metal number plates (from dubmeister, as they sell 'uk road legal' plates which supposedly conform to all of the standards etc). Just to be sure, I thought i'd ask the local police what their view of using these plates were. Mails below, but thought i'd pass on the information - may come in useful for someone! --------------------------------------- Quote: Hello I have a query regarding the legality of pressed metal number plates. When the subject has been discussed, there have been mixed opinions, and cases where friends have been told to remove them, however I've read through "The Road Vehicles (Display of Registration Marks) Regulations 2001" (source: http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2...chedule/2/made) which the extract below explains that providing the plates conform to the BSI standards, then they are legal. PART 1 VEHICLES REGISTERED AND NEW REGISTRATION PLATES FITTED ON OR AFTER 1ST SEPTEMBER 2001 (MANDATORY SPECIFICATION) 1. The plate must be made of retroreflecting material which, as regards its construction, colour and other qualities, complies with the requirements of— (a)the British Standard specification for retroreflecting number plates published on 15 January 1998 under number BS AU 145d(1), or (b)any other relevant standard or specification recognised for use in an EEA State and which, when in use, offers a performance equivalent to that offered by a plate complying with the British Standard specification,and which, in either case, is marked with the number (or such other information as is necessary to permit identification) of that standard or specification. 2. Where the registration mark is displayed on the front of the vehicle, it must have black characters on a white background. 3. Where the registration mark is displayed on the back of the vehicle, it must have black characters on a yellow background. I've seen a response on a forum from a supplier of pressed metal number plates that display them as road legal, who explained the following: Our plates have been developed with a large plate manufacturer that supplies for example official Netherlands plates and serves other countries and manufactures to many differing standards world wide.. They don't have to be tested by BSI, just be designed to comply, and actually comply if tested, and this is what we have done. The BSAU 145d regulation has been finely gone through by our manufacturer and relevant sections have be exceeded or met, including a section specifically designed to exclude metal plates, which necessitated a subtle exclusive redesign of the metal base plate and different material to 'regular' Euro show plates, as well as altered letter tooling and lastly permanent laser marking of supplier info and maker info and the standard they are made to. They have been fully tested by our manufacturer and pre tested against the BS145d standard by the German DIN institute – (in case any major flaws we hadn’t picked up on), who have set up testing environments for BSAU145d now, are testing and will award a certificate to this effect on completion. We are fully satisfied they comply or exceed BSAU145d and have been told by a British Standards institute they can be marked as such if we are sure they comply by cross referencing DIN regs that duplicate/exceed sections of BS145d and amendments we have made, and they offered additional help if we needed, which we don't. No UK authority has the knowledge or means to test plates other than British Standard Institute. No Police or local authority can challenge a user as they are marked correctly as to comply, and that’s the end of it as far as prosecution of the user. If they want to test them they would have to send off to BSI and pay the £6000 to £15,000 fee...and result would be they pass anyway. Our dealers/suppliers take proper relevant driver/vehicle ID which is a major part of plates being legal, correct lettering and physical plate spec alone is not sufficient as prevention of vehicle cloning is probably the main issue in 'illegal' plates and prosecutions. Can you please confirm the stance on this matter? Where would I stand if I had metal number plates which conform to BSI rulings but an officer requested I removed the plates and/or issued a fixed penalty notice. Thanks in advance, Paul I then got the following (very quick - surprisingly) response: Quote: Paul The answer to your query is in the first section of “PART 1†below and quote “ The plate must be MADE OF retroreflecting material “ Steel is not a retroreflecting material. The section you have included from the number plate supplier does not state the plates have been tested and met the British Standard . It states the manufacturer of the plates has done their own testing . It also states they have been told they can mark the plates with the BS mark “ IF THEY ARE SURE THEY COMPLY†which still does not show standards have been met and purely infers it. Please note that it is the responsibility of the driver/keeper of a vehicle to ensure their vehicle is road legal and anything that casts a doubt on the legality of the registration plate should make you wary of using it. There is suggestion on the internet that some unscrupulous sellers of show plates could offer to mark the plates to BS standard however they do so knowing that it is the driver who will have to answer the questions at the road side and pay the fine. Plates have a fixed font style and size. Retroreflective means the plate should reflect light back to its source with a minimum scattering of light which is met by using the vinyl reflective material on the backing of the plate similar to the backing of road signs and the livery on the sides of emergency vehicles which cannot be met by simply painting a metal plate orange or white. The standards for plates is to allow clear reading of plates and clear photography of plates by roadside cameras and automatic number plate recognition cameras and if your plate fails to meet the standard and you get stopped by police then you are open to prosecution. You will probably have heard of a spray that was available to stop speed cameras seeing a number plate. This spray directly affected the refelectivity of the plate and could open the owner to other more serious offences than just plate offences. If you affix such plates to your car then where stopped by police and issued with a fine then your only recourse would be to dispute the case in court in front of a magistrate which would probably still incur you being fined ( now with additional court costs ) the only difference being that the plate manufacturer would then be under scrutiny for supplying the plates. Also worth pointing out (which the officer above didn't mention) is that ANPR cannot read pressed metal plates as the letters aren't flat to the plate - they stick out, which flags you up to their systems (a friend has been pulled for this, while using 'uk road legal pressed metal plates' since I sent this mail). So bottom line is, even if a seller advertises them as being road legal, don't always take their word for it Cheers

In theory it shouldn't as there is both a vent hose at the tank and one that's connected to the evap system which should periodically purge the vapor from the tank.

A pre silencer will help, or go supertrapp, then you can tailor the sound to suit yourself...at a price.

The trouble is you can usually get away with decats, however number plates are highly visible and something the police take a lot of interests in.

Good luck, if your happy then your not wasting your time, it will obviously prevent a small amount of movement, but whether you will actually notice it in practice or not.....

I presume you mean registration plates? are pressed ones legal on a non classic/vintage car.

Agreed! I have had several cars that are supposed to benefit from these braces, supposedly because the firewall was flexing, well I checked this on a couple of these cars and could not measure any more than 2 or 3mm flex if you stood on the brake, and if you are having to stand on the brakes then there is something else wrong. Snake oil IMO, bit like most of the engine braces and earthing kits.

Green and blue can usually be mixed, they are silicate and phosphate based, whereas OAT and HOAT which are organic acid type and usually red cannot be mixed with other types.

If its only a little below the mark, then it wont hurt to top it up with water, but if its empty then a mix would be better, pretty sure that green and blue can be mixed, so its up to you.

I would first check if you have any codes showing/CELs lambdas should show up if faulty, could equally be be the ECU coolant temp sensor causing it to drink fuel, out of interest just what sort of mileage are you getting?

Have you just started the game? kill a raider or two and take their amour, or there is a suit of power armer that easy to get just to the south east of the Poseidon energy building,https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLSXQvNmMrY