Neilp

Yeah I agree but there's usually a reason somebody has part ex'd a car.

It's 7750 without all the other stuff. So 500 more and in immaculate condition as recorded on here and vetted by many members so you could technically buy blind knowing you're getting a perfect car with no issues

The car your looking at could need a new clutch and flywheel along with lots of other potential issues in a month though and that will cost a grand. Do you see what I'm saying?

Vik54 is selling one much the same which is a well know car and has been looked after with no penny spared. I'm sure its very similar money and also has Miltek and led rears plus much more

Yeah the miltek isn't really a lifechanging deal breaking exhaust, especially on a car with problems. Maybe the like of a real HKS Ti or amuse Ti but not a miltek I'm afraid.

I'm honestly not sure about it from one pic I like it and the other it just doesn't look right. A couple of pics from a distance and no bizarre angles may change my mind. Kudos for trying something crazy

brilliant. He's trying to help you mate. We may know the car and know who broke it and sold it. All the lights on the dash could be lots of things. Personally the miltek and rear led lights aren't gonna sway somebody on a purchase for a car with a dodgy engine problem. You clearly have the wrong perception of what's going on on here. I was a guest because I wasn't signed in.

Stick to traders on here and you won't go wrong. Far cheaper than other supplier also I've never heard of anybody using cosworth pads tbh. Ebc yellowstuff pads are what I use day to day for spirited runs and they are great. Used them on track also and they have been great also. Ebc bluestuff pads were amazing track pads but need to be warmed up to work. Ebc discs have a very poor rep on the 350z

First mistake was ebc discs. They're junk. Second mistake was that ds2500's are far far superior to oem pads but on here much more expensive. Oem pads are cheap, ds2500 are about 200 for front and rear. The blue smoke is because you have over heated your pads and discs. Blue discs are fine. This will happen when you have hot brakes. Blue smoke does happen but it's down to not allowing brakes to cool down before stopping. I wouldn't worry too much about it unless there is flames. The cosworth pads are probably pretty good but the discs are terrible tbh. Pm zmanalex for decent discs, ie DBA or performance friction. Edit... Beat me to it!

But weren't the old batches 6 piece that connected to the OEM bracket with hardline? Nope. The original kit came without clips which was highlighted to Hel and the newer batches came with clips. Ive had mines about a year and they came with clips.

My Hel lines came with clips. The older batches never.

Takes a real man to be camp ian you should know that

I'll buy you a Magners. But only of its not raining! Lol the bar will be fully stocked in my boot. I may also be serving nos

You can't come unless you camp out like a man.

I may be able to come down, I'll be camping if I do.

Sorry just realised I'm talking about optimum performance. Optimum rpm is the wrong terminology in my opinion. What you should be looking at is the speed versus the least amount of throttle position. The lower the rpm the better but if your givin it throttle to keep it at this then its guzzling juice as the injectors will still be open wide pumping it in.

Do the pros not reckon optimum revs are at the point on a dyno chart where your hp crosses the torque line?

I imagine the Porsche gearbox will have much closer ratios than the 350z. The gear ratios are far too long in the 350z. I'm currently deciding whether a sequential gearbox is next on my mod list. It can only handle about 450hp though and my plans are for much more than this.

Is this able to be converted to 1.5way?

I was always told 10mph/gear. Generally I'll be in 3rd at 30 as I like the noise but if tootling along I'll be in 4th unless accelerating.

313 only came out in late 2007. Just because the cars are cheap I would seriously investigate running costs as they are by no means cheap to run. Most older cars will probably require clutches and flywheels soon which will set you back 4 figures fitted. If you search there is plenty of beginners guides and also in the email you receive when you sign up. Do some reading first on here as there is endless amounts of advice.

The tyres are now delaminated causing different suspension height as the wheel/tyre diameters are now all different. The wheels will all be at different camber and toe as this alters when the suspension is at different compression heights. There is no way 4 wheel allignment will show if the chassis is bent. All it will show is toe camber etc which can be adjusted to run true even when the chassis is out. Correct??? The allignment will be a mile out after bouncing off a pit lane wall not to mention any suspension components which are bent. Fact is the only correct method of checking if the chassis is straight (which it's not as the arm is visibly bent) is to put it on a chassis jig. If you think that car is salvageable and cost effective to repair why don't you buy it, fix it and sell it? For the money the op will spend repairing it, give or take a little, he could buy an almost exact same car.

I just did a search are you sure you have 70 partially helpful posts ???? cheeky sod Well done mate keep em coming

refresh my memory please Actually there's two I can think of ...Playing the piano ... I still have the videos ... and the first few minutes after stumbling out of the R35 after those pax laps I have never felt so sick coming out of a car than after about 30 laps of Alex deliberately trying to get me to grab the door grab and make me scared. 4 wheel drifting in the wet in an r35 with zmanalex

refresh my memory please