yokomo

yeah if it looks as good as Andy's then should be good. will certianly look different

ok step by step unbolt oem light from car unplug bulb holder from light bulb and all unplug bulb from holder leaving the bulb holder still attached to the car plug in new led to the holder where the bulb was. bolt led light back to car repeat for the other side an check it all works !

erm they will work ! unplug the bulb holder form your oem lights and shove it in there ! dont cut anything !

yeah $660 so im guessing about £600 ish by the time they get here and mr brown takes his dip. then as mentioned youl need a y pipe with a cat in it. with any luck the price will come down though.

just spotted these on my350z.com.... http://my350z.com/forum/intake-exhaust/ ... pipes.html sounds interesting although alittle pricey but if they make the wpoer they claim to do could be worth getting along with a y pipe cat combo.

bose "sub" and its "amp" are just un plugged takes about 2 minutes ! as for removing the main bose amp that runs the mids/tweeters im not sure ... couldnt get the darn packing thing out the boot(well i dint want to pull that hard incase i broke it) but its under the near side of the boot. if you do got for a proper amp to run your setup you could just leave it there since the headunits outputs will be reconnected to your amp.

could be the earth is paired. if you have the rear lights off unplug the entire unit from the nissan ones and take the bulb out , mines plugged in this way reusing the bulb holder as an adaptor. the led lights i got just had bare wires sticking out a connector , looked really wierd but works fine.

got a picture ??? mine had to be hooked inot the bulb holder and not directly too the car. mine had like 4 wirs sticking out a thin flat piece of plastic.

try z-store.co.uk if they dont have it chances are they can get it plus some of the other traders on here can get carbon stuff. as we have all said though once you start down the carbon path you wont be wanting paint parts !

no probs, the carbon blade is hard to see though against the silver of the main body but looks very nice in the metal. perosnaly i say smooth the badge and swades from the bumper and dont even try the bonnet as its gonna crack due the slamming of the bonnet shut get some carbon skirts when u can will give a nice carbon highlight

if i get the money for it im going two tone .... azure and carbon fibre

indeed , my dad has suggested i paint my carbon VS lip... if i want it colour coded id have saved the cash and bought the frp one ! back on topic the VS kit comes in frp but if you did go for carbon theres no need for abody shop you can fit it yourself . also you dont have to worry about paint match .

not sure how accurate this is as the lighting has alot of shows to deal with.

left the bumper without trying to fix the colour but badge dent removed.

no wonder theres so few at under 5k a year

ok colour match is somewhat iffy (changeing colours im not so hot on yet) but ive taken out the badge and lines in the bumper for you, il smooth out the bonnet now.. and fully smoothed

wow you got the arch smoothed and painted in the weekend thats fast work . must admit youve got a very well fitted vs3 , loving the matt paint too as its a very unique touch

youd be suprised what you cna get in there and what you cant ... got my fujitsubo exhaust in but couldnt get my oem backbox in the boot so had to make a second trip to get it later !

nice to see you got i all sorted in the end , did you have any issues wiht the screen folding ?? i had to trim the top of my adaptor plate back to get mine to work and its till very tight so will ahve to take it out and trim some more at some point.

+1 my way also. the other option, which i use, is the slip lane race. go up and down a junction if the roads are quiet. the gritter only does like 50mph so its easy to get past in time. just means you have to sit waaaay back untill you see a junction coming yeah best bet , peronally i think all griters should turn the spreader off every now and again to let peopel past !

vortech the 350z and save th rest. a nice compramise , you get a nice big upgrade and a huuuuggggee smile plus keep some cash .

try and find a nismo v3 ? not many if any v3 in the UK. other than that id say keep looking around , your car looks great . front lip is a the cheapest easyest option (got the same veilside v1 front on mine) , you do get a bigger wow factor and individual look from a full kit/bumper.

ok ignore the colours on the car half and just go for the locations of the wires. youl need some wire taps whihc may or may not be included the looklike a little clasp that goes around the wire to tap and the other one goes in the end. if youve got gaps ot the facia have you got the right one ? my double dine plate was way too itght and even after cutting some back the unit wont flip (dont need it to luckily). the wire tap is alittle fidly and you may need to pull back some of the bundling on the loom but its not that hard .

fiberglass stuff ie subwoofer speaker pods are pretty easy. carbon is a different matter as your tending to be after the apperance or the wieght saving. to get the finish not so hard you just need a good finish to your mold but the light weight needs spot on resin ratios . if its just the audio stuff i suggest you read up then then just order more stuff than you need and go for it i can knock up a sub box in a weekend now that i have done a few and since i bulk order my reson/glass a agea ago its pretty cheap.

not a fan of the jdm rear plate on a stock bumper , do prefer the front though. as for getting a rear modded it just one of those subtle mods that completes the car ,didnt even notice marks was moddedwhen i first saw i just thought it was meant to be UK style