MattMe

Hi I posted a question on the technical forum: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=31474 but not really found an answer to the main question I had yet. Would anyone who knows mind telling me what type of gearbox oil, and how mcuh I need to buy when fitting a new one please? Or tell me where I can get the info Love you.

Can't really bring much more to the conversation that +1. I test drove 2 S2000s before driving a Zed. I liked the interior and how light the car felt but I'm more of a torque nut than a high-revving kinda guy. (Think I've been spoilt with V8s in the past!) So the engine didn't really suit me. Obviously it does you as you've already had one which you seem to have enjoyed. Other than that I wasn't too impressed with how noisey the S2ks are - 350zs aren't exactly the quietest cabins in the world but they're certainly a whole lot better than the Honda. Overall you get more of an every day kind of car, with a roof(!) comfortable spacious interior, decent boot, lots of cubby holes, decent stereo etc. Quite easy to live with really, I imagined the Honda to be a bit too much of a weekend style car for my needs. I personally feel if you're in the right gear that the Nissan engine is more fun. Once you get used to how the engine performs you'll see it's got lots more performance than the S2000 and easoer to control with traction control turned off My advice would be get a UK GT, as new as possible with manual gearbox. £12.5k should get you a nice enough one... And you've found the best forum for advice and general shinanigans! Good luck.

Hi. I just ordered my Exedy clutch kit from eBay (£258 inc. delivery) as I'm changing the gearbox and clutch next weekend. The synchro seems to have gone as I'm getting quite severe crunching when changing into 5th so I thought seeing as it's done 55k now I may as well change the clutch at the same time. Don't want to be doing this again any time soon. So... I have a few questions: 1. Is there a guide for changing the gearbox/clutch on here? I haven't found one yet. (If not I think I shall take it upon myself to make one. About time I gave something back) 2. What oil should I purchase and how mcuh should I put in the gearbox? I was advised as the gearbox I'm fitting has been sat around a while to change it after doing a few miles in it. Not sure if that'll be necessary myself. 3. Are there any tools that'll make the job easier? I helped change a clutch once before and I seem to remember someone advising to use a clutch alignment tool. 4. How many other parts will obstruct the swap? Exhaust/under-trays etc? I've never been under the car in the full 10 months of ownership - I don't know what I've been messing about at That's all I can think of right now so if there's any advise floating around in the vast knowledge of this forum that might help me please let it be known.

Just read through this and the thred you were writting during changing all the LEDs. I got tired just reading it, never mind actually carrying out all the soldering! Good job though - I've always thought the orange looked dated. Two questions: Did you ever sort out the wing mirror switch light? Have you posted the guide anywhere? And one other thought I've wanted to do on the last few cars I've had, but never got round to it - a friend of mine has a Jag which has lights in the bottom of the doors so when you open them you can see where/what you're goin to be standing on. Always thought that was a really classy touch. Not sure how applicable it would be to any other car - cutting holes in your doors then sealing them... I can see the dial LEDs going on my ever expanding list of jobs to get done now. Sometimes I wish I didn't come on this site!

So because I'm forced into fitting a new gearbox, which I really cannot afford I thought I'd better fit a clutch because sods law will be 2 days after fitting the 'box my clutch will go. It's done 50k now. So there goes another £300! The other thing I've noticed a lot of talk of changing the flywheel at the same time. Is this really neccessary and how can I know ifI hsould or shouldn't bother to change it at the same time? On top of all that I noticed my traction control light coming on more often in the dry so checked out my rear tyres they're pretty much bald... I'm so broke right now youwouldn't believe and it looks like I've got £1k worth of maintenance to spend now! Not particularly happy about that!

Hiya mate. Just had to buy a new gearbox for mine and thought I'd swap out the clutch while I was doing it so I didn't have to take it all out again when it gives up. To be honest I don't think there's much wrong with the clutch but it's done 50K on the original now so thought I'd look around, see what kind of price I'm looking at. Let me know.

Ah, good. So long as the 'reputable' person wasn't saying to him "put 10/40 in and he'll never hear that half the cogs are missing" I'll be fine then. I was quite shocked. I just hate buying things from eBay I've not had many good experiences from that site in the last how ever many years it's been going. And I'm the one who gets bad feedback because some goof buys a car, looks round it himself, buys it, drives it home and complains that it needs new tyres soon. Ah! I despair. Please everyone, fingers crossed I've not just blown £200... Any guides on here for changing a 'box or is it fairly straight forward?

I've (hopefully) just bought a new gearbox from eBay for £200. Bargain. I have 2 questions which I probably should have asked someone before getting my wallet out. 1. It sounds to me like it's from a Jap import. My car isn't an import. Will it fit alright? 2. The guy who doesn't seem to know a whole lot about Zeds said he was recommended by a 'reputable' gearbox specialist to put 10/40 engine oil in. I've not heard of anything like that before. Is he confused, or is his reputable garage not so reputable? Cheers guys.

But with my car being around 2 years out of warranty I guess that makes me bankrupt? Is there any outside chance that it's an issue that won't require a gearbox rebuild or replacement? I'm guessing with how specific and regular the sound it that the syncro is about the only thing it could be. Darn.

Hi guys, long time no post... I've been doing a few (thousand) miles in the 350z for work recently and I think the few miles have put a strain on her Just yesterday I noticed a crunch when going into 5th. Thought I might just have not pushed the clutch all the way down but it seems to do it 90% of the time now. I found if I change slowly (ie take it out of 4th, into neutral, then slowly into 5th) it won't do it as often, but I do one swift motion it nearly always does it. I guess this is similar to the 4th into 6th problem with the syncromesh but nobody else sems to have posted about it only being from 4th into 5th. Any ideas on what this might be? (please let it be cheap!) Also go some knocking from the front suspension I need to have a look at as well as new tyres all round I'm so not a happy Zed owner at the minute... Thanks guys.

...ha! Only joking...

Depends what you get and how much you spend. If you get a UK car in a rarer colour (ie not silver, like mine!) and a decent spec (GT) it will hold better than others. Also if you were to get these but slightly older and a good price I don't think there's anywhere for the prices to go! I got a UK '04 GT, 40k miles, FNSH etc a few months ago and spent 8.5k. If you ask me, even in a couple years a 2004 3.5 V6 sports car isn't going to be worth a whole lot less than that! More expensive/newer 350s will depreciate just like any other car but I think in the last 18 months they've taken the worst hit they're likely too. As for 370s affecting prices, I doubt that will happen until you start getting a fair few on the second hand market, say in about 12 months or so. The first few on the s/h market will probably attract quite a high price I'd imagine. Just my thoughts on the matter...

Totally agree. Only problem being if you're in a big repmobile you'll not notice speed bumps at 40mph (so I've been told!) an in the 350z it doesn't really matter what speed you're doing it's going to hurt. The best thing they could do would be makes the bumps so they are flush with the road and have them raise up if a car is going over 30... Sounds expensive but I think we all pay enough tax to cover a few million of them.

I think these look really good. As others have said the finish looks professional - so well done When I noticed they were JDM 17"s (always check the pictures out before reading!) I thought they would look to small, but they don't. The black just seems to make them look bigger somehow. I'm impressed!

Could this thread be updated with the UK specs and pictures that work? Not complaining, just a thought...

Keep an eye on oil pressure when cold/warm/idling and when moving too. My CD player never skips when stationary and will only occasionally when I'm driving somewhere, sometimes only a little when going over bumps then sometimes it's so bad I have to resort to Radio1, which is never good Then other times I'll go days and it'll behave it's self. Strange. Have a good look through all the history and all the receipts, make sure the mileage and service intervals all add up. Then buy one.

IMO 11k for an import with paint defects like that sounds a lot. The reason I personally didn't look at imports is the specs aren't as good as Uk unless you get the rearer TS spec. Also the suspension setup is apparently better on the UK cars. Not driven a Jap car before though. If the rear bumper has been sprayed that could be because the JDM bumper has been swapped for a UK one. The log book should tell you if it's an import or not... Good luck!

I was looking at some GT4 wheels t'other day but I think the standard 18's really suit it. Nothing special but look good to me Only mods I have planned are: Plenum spacer Splash guards if I can get them for less that £100! Fitting MP3 input Fit front numberplate directly onto bumper and get rid of huge ginormous mounting monstrosity. Possibly wheels when my bank account recovers and maybe lower it an inch or 5. That's it, I'm a really happy car owner at the moment. (You missed the fact I have already done one mod - stumpy aerial )

Finally got round to cleaning her and getting the camera out... (Where's the gallery area gone nowadays?)

I've got an E51. The cradle is specific to the E51 phone so I wouldn't think it was that! I've tried 2 different phones, one with old standard firmware from a couple years ago and one with the newest version I could find. I was thinking it might be to do with the controls on the wheel or the way it's integrated into the HU that's causing the problem. So I looked online found this: "Please note that the Take and Talk cradles are not compatible with manufactures installed car kits [for example the VW, Nissan [most common 350z], Audi Mercedes] - If the hang up cup has been bolted to a metal bracket or attached to a Brodit clip then the installed car kit is not a manufactures install" Any thoughts on why this might be? I was thinking about getting a Bury universal Bluetooth kit (has a cradle to hold the phone and a charging cable) but don't want to have the same problem with that.

Ermmm.... I'm just putting the cradle into the standard Bury kit that comes in the car. The cradles are swappable by design. No docking station, I don't think Might send it back and get a bluetooth kit! Not wanting to do things the normal (read expensive) method though I've found other Bury Bluetooth adapters for a lot less than the ones specifically for the 350z. Anyone got any experience with using different Bluetooth adapters? Cheers.

That sounds almost identical to mine. At idle it's about 1/4 on the gauge, on the move, but not accelerating hard it's around 1/2 and when going for it I get up to nearly 3/4, but not quite. It seemed very similar when I had 10w/40 and now I have 5w/30... So I'd say 'yes' that seems about right!

I bought a Bury phone cradle from eBay recently and I'm having no luck getting it to work with the buttons on the steering wheel at all so far. It's a standard Nokia E51 cradle but should be just the same as any other phone I guess. (And hope). When I put my phone in the cradle it recognises it as a headset rather than a car kit but it says this on the lable on the front of the cradle so I guess that's right and when I press the 'call' button on the wheel it seems to recognise there's a phone attached to it as it says 'phone' on the the HU. But I don't seem to be getting any sound through it at all, not even if I make a call by using the phone it's self. Am I missing something here??

Hi and welcome. Not got a BT adapter myself but you might want to check the volume on the phone as well as the volume of the kit. Just a thought. I'm soooo glad I don't have a garage! A trick I was once told is to hang a tennis ball from the roof at a point so it hits your window when you need to stop. Good plan. Just got my car a few weeks back and still absolutely loving it. Can honestly say I've never driven a car that's as comfortable and well handling at the same time. Sounds nice too!

I want one.