MattMe

It took me several attempts to read that!

I just realised my problem. I was confusing 'synthetic' with 'silicone' (as in DOT5). So - I've purchased some Motul Dot4 from Opie oils and will be replacing it this weekend. Hopefully this will bring an end to my stupid questions... For now.

Right, I seem to be confused, again. I was going to perform the simple task of purchasing some brake fluid... Apparently (so I've read in other posts) the 350z doesn't use synthetic brake fluid and recommends not to use synthetic. But it looks like every DOT4 fluid I've found IS synthetic. Is this right? I thought DOT 5 was synthetic. Does anyone know of any DOT4 which isn't synthetic and where I can buy it from? So if I do buy synthetic DOT4 will I have to drain the entire system? Just wanted to flush out the lines really, not have to drain the whole reservoir too. Ta.

Hi all. I just bought an Eeziblled hydraulic brake bleeder kit from the dreaded eBay. Unfortunately for me I left it until after order the kit to read the 'sticky' at the top of this forum regarding brake fluids... Now I'm worried. I'm guessing that this cheap £15 kit will be the very sort which is described as pumping air into the new fluid, and therefore contaminating it possibly as much as the old fluid I'll be taking out. Does anyone have any experience with this, or real-world advice on whether or not I should bother using the kit... Damn, I hate my car paranoia...

Just checked the service receipt and it looks like the brake fluid was changed a year ago, about 6k miles. So that shouldn't be too bad, a bit concerning that it's got air in it somehow, unless it's been like that since the service and the previous guy never noticed I'll check the pads out visually but I'm guessing going on what it said on the last service they'll be more than ready for a change. Which leads me to ask.... Brake pads: I was very close to buying some yellow stuff pads based on the fact I thought they were supposed to be high spec pads and they seem to be fairly cheap, but after flicking through the forum looks like it might not be best to get those... I have looked through a few posts but still not sure what to go for. I'm not doing any track days and don't want to end up with race spec pads that require warming up loads before they work well, and not looking to spend a fortune. Should I go OEM or is it actually worth spending the extra on Ferodo or Envy pads? I do drive 'enthusiastically' at times, but won't be tracking the car... Cheers guys.

Each to their own? Fair enough, but don't inflict it upon others by posting pictures of it on a website, or even driving it during daylight hours! I really can't get my head around why anyone would do that. Suppose if it weren't for folk like that then our cars wouldn't look quite so good...

Hiya folks. Picked up my new '04 GT this week with 40k on the clock. Just took it out for a quick spin and noticed something I hadn't during the test drive. The brake pedal seems to have a lot of movement and spongy feel on first depression, then if I lift and press again they are much firmer and perform better. My first thought was that they might have air in the lines and need bleeding or the fluid replacing. But could it be anything else before I spend any time doing that? Noticed while looking through the service history that on the last service (P3, 6k ago) it stated that the front pads had around 4k left in them and 2k in the rears, so guess it's time to change! Could worn pads cause this extra movement in the pedal? Also, does the P3 or any other service include replacing the brake fluid? Lots of questions! Cheers...

Seariously, this is... well, I can't put it into words. Is it a sick joke? I visited my350z.com after reading the post about other forums. Needless to say, I won't be straying very far in future... http://my350z.com/forum/2003-2008-nissa ... z-1-a.html

Right, sounds simple enough - but how do I know which BT adapter to buy? Anyone got any links or model I should be looking for? There are a couple of cradles on evilBay at the moment going cheap to fit my phone...

Cheers Macca, but if it is the Bury kit I'm thinking of then the cradles make it Bluetooth anyway. I'd like to use the equipment that's already there where I can, and if it is just a matter of getting a cradle then that suits me fine. Are the Bluetooth kits you're talking of standalone units? Like the Parot thing that clips to your visor or something?

YAY! Just follwed the reset proceedure in the link posted by Renegade (turning the ignition off and on 3 times) and it seems to have cleared it. Thanks guys - massive help. I'm a much more happy Zed owner now...

Cheers matey, will do. Strange because all the connections look fine at the moment, but like you say I'll disconnect and reconnect them all to see what's what. Any ideas if it will pass an MOT with this light on??

Me again! I'm gonna have loads of questions over the next few weeks. And I'll be posting some pics as soon as I get me camera back. Anyway... The GT I just biought has the car kit installed in the rear cubby hole (standard install I guess?) and looks similar to the Bury kits we install at work. However, I can't seem tofind any info on it in any of my paper work. Am I right in thinking it's bury and if so do I just need to purchase the appropriate cradle to put my Nokia phone in? Cheers guys.

Hi again, Another question regarding the airbag light. It's flashing constantly on the dash, which is rather distracting. So in the glorious sunshine of this morning I've poked my head around under teh front and rear of the seats and checked all the connections I can see (including the ones in the seat back and it's till flashing at me! The only odd I thing I had noticed was on the passenger side there's a small white clip in the centre at the front of the seat with nothing plugged into it yet on the drivers side there is. I've looked and felt around everywhere but can't seem to find a loose wire. Any ideas if this connector is normally missing the other half or not? Or do I have to do something to reset the light? Also wondering if I took it in somewhere, probably Nissan, whether they could tell which sensor is causing the light to flash?

So whereabouts under the seat is the connector? Is it easy to get to? Is there just one per seat?

I just meant obne of those tins you throw in with your old oil, run for ten minutes and then drain off. How would a 'professional' job differ to that? I'm definitely not considering having the enging stripped - far too extreme for such a new engine IMO. Sounds like it worked well on the beemer. Not sure how it improved the started motor though?? Are the Redex kits different from the pour in types ~I'm thinking off? I thnk the ones I've used are by 'Glyns' or something like that...

IS THIS DONE YET? I wanna see it already!!

I need to get me some of those 5 spoke Nismo wheels... Some nice cars, chaps. I like the splash guards too - any idea where I might be able to pick some up, and how they are fitted?

Every 3k? My my, that's commitment! Yeah, I don't think I'll bother with the flush, it's probably not worth the risk and I guess it shouldn't need it. I know the car wasn't serviced one year but it did have 2 services in the 11k it covered, so not too bad... I just want to drive it already!!

I agree, chrome = tacky, but I thought a brushed aluminium one would look nice on a silver car... Zee - yours is black?? Is it just the rain or my eyes that make it look silver then? Crazy

Hmmm, yeah Google yields more contradicting views than I thought possible. Basically some people say it's a bad thing either because it'll loosen all the crap which will then come out after you put your new oil in, and getting stuck in places you don't want it too. Or because the flush will stay in the system, remove oil from places it's needed and thin your new oil. I suppose that makes sense. How badly mucked up do you think the internals of a 4yr old, 40,000 mile engine would be? Better to do it now than later when there might be a lot of gunk ready to attack the internals or just leave it and change the oil more often? I've run it through a few older cars I've had and it never seemed to do any damage but it's not so easy to risk it on a more expensive car... The problem is there doesn't seem to be any hard evidence either way so I'm still no wiser. Safer left alone I guess, but I'd be interested to hear from anyone else who's used it and which they used...

I've been looking at these beesting stylee aerials on evilBay and I have a question. I want to replace the base of the aerial too, so the whole thing's stainless, not a black plastic base with a stainless aerial on top, but it seems the ones I'm looking at are just for the mast. Any idea of anywhere where I might be able to get something like this? I think Zee posted a pic of what I'm after, but then a link to a black S2000 aerial! I think I might end up just getting a black one... Cheers.

Ayup folks. I was thinking about when I take my car for a service to ask them to do an engine flush. Anyone here got any opinions on this? I know some people swear by them and others swear at them. I know with older engines it's not recommended as sometimes the gunk you flush out can be the very same gunk holding your gaskets together. But on a newer engine I wouldn't imagine it would do any harm, would it?

Hi. I might be interested in your head unit as the car I just bought has a dodgy h/u and will probably consider swapping it for an oem if I can work out how to do the tape desk to aux input mod. How much you looking for?

Are we ignoring that huge monstrosity of a spoiler on the back for any particular reason? Sorry if it's anyone's here but I think it's awful looking.