Camber Arms

[Payco]

After some more advice please. Decided on purchasing a set of Meister R Zeta-S coilovers for my 2006 coupe. Going to fit 25 and 20 spacers at the same time. Plan is to lower her 25 or maybe even 30. Can someone please confirm whether i need camber arms (front or rear or both) if i lower her to either of these levels or only if i lower it 30.

If i do need camber arms can someone recomend which ones i should look to purchase to go with the colieys.

 

 

Thanks

Payco

[Flex]

I'm sure a trader will come along soon and recommend

[ZMANALEX]

More than likely you will find that you will require front camber correction arms and rear toe bolts and rear camber correction arms.

 

There are many brands available however without hesitation, I would recommend SPC (Eibach)

 

I have all in stock at great prices and good to go same/next day.

 

Alex.

[SX Dave]

I'm lowered 30mm and you will need rear arms and bolts to get back in factory specs.

 

My front camber is just over 2 degrees as I didn't fit front camber arms. Lots of people lower without front arms. It's personal preference really.

[smudgedon]

Simply lowering will put the camber out, so camber arms are advised to get the setup that you want

 

As Alex recommended, SPC are popular, got them on my car

 

Getting geometry setup at the weekend which will obviously involve the adjustment of the camber

[Payco]

Thanks for the feedback, all very helpful as always.

 

Payco

[Dave-350]

I'm lowered 30mm and you will need rear arms and bolts to get back in factory specs.

 

My front camber is just over 2 degrees as I didn't fit front camber arms. Lots of people lower without front arms. It's personal preference really.

 

+2 degrees on the front or -2 degress??

[MeisterR]

In case anyone know, we have the Cyberspeeds Front and Rear camber arms in stock for the Z33 also.

A little bit cheaper than SPC, and available from stock.

 

Jerrick

[KyleR]

I'm lowered 30mm and you will need rear arms and bolts to get back in factory specs.

 

My front camber is just over 2 degrees as I didn't fit front camber arms. Lots of people lower without front arms. It's personal preference really.

 

+2 degrees on the front or -2 degress??

 

I believe it'll be -2 as +2 would mean the top of the wheel leaning out.

 

:facepalm: wrong way round, now edited to be correct, my principle was correct, though, lower = top angled in.

Edited March 3, 2013 by KyleR

[Dave-350]

I'm lowered 30mm and you will need rear arms and bolts to get back in factory specs.

 

My front camber is just over 2 degrees as I didn't fit front camber arms. Lots of people lower without front arms. It's personal preference really.

 

+2 degrees on the front or -2 degress??

 

I believe it'll be +2 as -2 would mean the top of the wheel leaning out.

 

Er, ok :facepalm:

 

http://www.rapid-racer.com/suspension-tuning.php

 

I'd have a read of that guide.

[smudgedon]

I'm lowered 30mm and you will need rear arms and bolts to get back in factory specs.

 

My front camber is just over 2 degrees as I didn't fit front camber arms. Lots of people lower without front arms. It's personal preference really.

 

+2 degrees on the front or -2 degress??

 

I believe it'll be +2 as -2 would mean the top of the wheel leaning out.

 

Wrong

 

-2 has the top of the wheels under the arch, like this / \

+2 would have top sticking out, like this \ /

Edited March 3, 2013 by smudgedon

[KyleR]

I'm lowered 30mm and you will need rear arms and bolts to get back in factory specs.

 

My front camber is just over 2 degrees as I didn't fit front camber arms. Lots of people lower without front arms. It's personal preference really.

 

+2 degrees on the front or -2 degress??

 

I believe it'll be +2 as -2 would mean the top of the wheel leaning out.

 

Wrong

 

-2 has the top of the wheels under the arch, like this / \

+2 would have top sticking out, like this \ /

 

Meh, no one is right all the time