So, had my clutch slave replaced...

[TameRacingDriver]

I was experiencing the problem where the clutch sticks on the way back up, presumably when it was hot.

 

I got the slave cylinder from Zmanalex, and had that fitted. The clutch is definitely improved, but its still not 100% IMO. It still feels sticky if you drive it hard, and has stuck a couple of times.

 

This happens even if you're not abusing the clutch but simply using the revs in a single gear, however, its worse if you constantly gear change.

 

It does not seem as bad if you rev-match (which I always try and do anyway).

 

And once, after a particularly hard drive, the bite point of the car actually changed the next time I drove (it was very near the bottom of the pedal) meaning I almost stalled straight away as I wasn't expecting it. After a few seconds it was OK again.

 

So whats the crack here then? Master cylinder? Clutch?

[Keyser]

Did you put in nice new quality fluid?

 

My guess would be the clutch, what mileage are you at?

[TameRacingDriver]

Yes I got the clutch fluid as part of the kit. And a nice braided line.

 

Its on 137000 miles.

Edited October 18, 2012 by TameRacingDriver

[RobPhoboS]

Obviously as a to-be owner here but after reading various forums and what not, I thought I read that the clutch line is near the manifold, thus up-rated fluid helps but perhaps some heat shielding could be of use as well ?

This could be a US thing only at a guess but is that how many miles has been done on that clutch ?

[ZMANALEX]

Providing that there is no air still in the hydraulic system and your pedal adjustments are correct, then I would be looking at master cyl.

 

After that, worst case scenario is drop the box and replace clutch and fly:

 

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/63721-exedy-clutch-kits-27500-ultra-light-flys-34500/

 

Alex

[TameRacingDriver]

Cheers, I'll try the master cylinder next. Its not generally too much of a problem at the moment, as although I do drive reasonably spiritidely at times, I'm not in any way hard on the car, and nor will it likely ever end up on track - I'd get a lightweight car for that should I ever wish.

[Ekona]

After my own experience, I would always recommend changing both slave and master at the same time as it's the labour to bleed the system that makes up most of the job, not the actual parts.

[TameRacingDriver]

If I'd know that, I'd have bit the bullet and got them both done at the same time.

[R-Face]

Had this problem with the clutch pulling itself in and not returning after a long drive until the engine was left to cool. Put some DOT 4 Motul RBF600 in and not had the problem since! Now whether you need master cylinder replacement too I can't comment

[Z-monster]

I was having this issue too, its definitely heat/air in system related. Had the stealers change and bleed clutch fluid (£29.99 all in!) the kid who works on it (I ask for him by name) does all the GT-Rs and Zeds in Cardiff. Problem now seems to be resolved. Good solid return to "up position". I did notices that the little pot in the engine bay was all manky so perhaps its not been changed in a while - doesnt appear to be a standard service item either.

 

It was worrying when I had to flick it back up manually with my foot. But now she seems fine.

 

FYI I've never had any noticeable clutch slip (6th on motorway no clutch slip related lag, firm engagement from standing), and it's an HR engine on 61K miles. Also seems to engage all gears better now, too.