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Renault Clio, MOT disaster


JetSet

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Have owned this for 5 years (its a 54 reg) and its sailed through the MOT every year with no advisories. This year however its cost me £700, including a service, to get it through. I knew there was an ABS fault but the part for that alone cost £180, then the handbrake needed adjusting, track rod ends had gone, the suspension needed new bushes, there were also some "boots" , whatever they are that needed replacing. Advisories on the passenger seat belt, not returning quickly enough and pitted disks and apparently only another 3k of brake pads left means that its becoming rather expensive to keep :thumbdown: Wouldn't mind, but it only has 28k on the clock so it has to go :blush:

 

 

Pete

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"boots" were probably the CV boots - constant velocity boots. Rubber protective boot on your drive shaft that covers your CV joints. They tend to either perish or split thus allowing the grease out and dirt in.

 

How can you put a mileage life span on a set of brake pads?? It is all down to how the driver uses the breaks.

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"boots" were probably the CV boots - constant velocity boots. Rubber protective boot on your drive shaft that covers your CV joints. They tend to either perish or split thus allowing the grease out and dirt in.

 

How can you put a mileage life span on a set of brake pads?? It is all down to how the driver uses the breaks.

 

Not renault when I took it to the dealer there was pads that had been used for 1k miles and they said they had excessive wear and would need changed soon. Still on my car now.

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Have owned this for 5 years (its a 54 reg) and its sailed through the MOT every year with no advisories. This year however its cost me £700, including a service, to get it through. I knew there was an ABS fault but the part for that alone cost £180, then the handbrake needed adjusting, track rod ends had gone, the suspension needed new bushes, there were also some "boots" , whatever they are that needed replacing. Advisories on the passenger seat belt, not returning quickly enough and pitted disks and apparently only another 3k of brake pads left means that its becoming rather expensive to keep :thumbdown: Wouldn't mind, but it only has 28k on the clock so it has to go :blush:

 

 

Pete

 

I guess on one hand you can say if you have only spent £700 in 5 years on a car then that isnt bad. But £700 in one go is something id find had to swallow on a 28k mile car. Lets look at the break down..

 

Service - if this was a minor one, oil + filter you`d be looking at 30quid tops for the bits, plus 30mins of someones time. A "major" service would add maybe 15quid to the parts bill.

 

Track rod ends - about 8quid each normally and about 40mins work. Very easy to swap out.

 

Boots - these are likely to be CV Boots. If you are doing the track rod ends then this would take less time to do as you already would have the wheels off and have the hub half disconnected. Doing the boots is a bit of a fiddly job as you really have to pop the cv joint off, but you can get stretchy boots which are quicker to fit. Id say maybe an hours job in total to change both. Actual boot costs about £10.

 

Pitted discs and brake pads are just their opinion of them. If its past the MOT with them then they are fine. If you need to replace them then they are cheap. About 30quid for pair of discs and pads and your looking at about 45mins work

 

Handbrake adjustment is just labour.. lets say 30mins. Suspension bushes? They could be anything, bushes are cheap, but its the labour which costs.

 

So, based upon my estimate your looking at maybe £120 of parts and 3 hours work @ around £60 an hour, so thats £300 already, plus the ABS bit and fitting, plus £50 for the actual MOT. So all in all, it adds up and their price of £700 seems about right. As always its the labour charges which jack the price up.

 

Only alternative is to buy a haynes manual and some spanners and have a go yourself. Or find a mate who can do the work. Im always being the spanner monkey for my mates. This month alone ive serviced 3 cars and swapped out the brakes on another one.

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Who did the service?

 

 

http://www.motyourcar.co.uk/

 

 

Just up the road from me.

 

What Clio is it?

 

 

1.2 Authentique

 

 

 

 

I guess on one hand you can say if you have only spent £700 in 5 years on a car then that isnt bad. But £700 in one go is something id find had to swallow on a 28k mile car. Lets look at the break down..

 

Service - if this was a minor one, oil + filter you`d be looking at 30quid tops for the bits, plus 30mins of someones time. A "major" service would add maybe 15quid to the parts bill.

 

Track rod ends - about 8quid each normally and about 40mins work. Very easy to swap out.

 

Boots - these are likely to be CV Boots. If you are doing the track rod ends then this would take less time to do as you already would have the wheels off and have the hub half disconnected. Doing the boots is a bit of a fiddly job as you really have to pop the cv joint off, but you can get stretchy boots which are quicker to fit. Id say maybe an hours job in total to change both. Actual boot costs about £10.

 

Pitted discs and brake pads are just their opinion of them. If its past the MOT with them then they are fine. If you need to replace them then they are cheap. About 30quid for pair of discs and pads and your looking at about 45mins work

 

Handbrake adjustment is just labour.. lets say 30mins. Suspension bushes? They could be anything, bushes are cheap, but its the labour which costs.

 

So, based upon my estimate your looking at maybe £120 of parts and 3 hours work @ around £60 an hour, so thats £300 already, plus the ABS bit and fitting, plus £50 for the actual MOT. So all in all, it adds up and their price of £700 seems about right. As always its the labour charges which jack the price up.

 

Only alternative is to buy a haynes manual and some spanners and have a go yourself. Or find a mate who can do the work. Im always being the spanner monkey for my mates. This month alone ive serviced 3 cars and swapped out the brakes on another one.

 

It was a full service, oil plus brake and clutch fluid and whatever else they do. The ABS problem was down to the cog rusting away, Renault don't sell that part, you have to buy the complete drive shaft.

 

"boots" were probably the CV boots - constant velocity boots. Rubber protective boot on your drive shaft that covers your CV joints. They tend to either perish or split thus allowing the grease out and dirt in.

 

How can you put a mileage life span on a set of brake pads?? It is all down to how the driver uses the breaks.

 

 

Thanks for the info. Car had 14k when I bought it, previous owners were Bank of America and a district Midwife. I'm very light on the brakes, the distance I leave to the vehicle in front is legendary, but I guess I've driven it about 10k, my daughter about 3k and Caroline around 1k...I also loaned it to my ex wife who drove it to Cardiff and back, she breaks every car she gets :lol:

 

 

Pete

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It was a full service, oil plus brake and clutch fluid and whatever else they do. The ABS problem was down to the cog rusting away, Renault don't sell that part, you have to buy the complete drive shaft.

Pete

 

The cog thing you refer to is called a "reluctor ring" which goes around the cv joint. I replaced one on my missus peugeot 206CC last year. Peugeot said you had to buy the whole drive shaft. But, my local car spares shop actually sold just the cv joints with the ring on for £30 each. Took me about 45minutes to swap the CV joints over whilst taking my time, and fitted a new CV boot at the same time. Didnt even have to remove the drive shaft to do it. Nice and easy. You can actually buy just the ring of ebay for £2.75!!!!!!, but its easier to just swap the cv joint. £180 seems expensive, even if they have swapped the whole drive shaft!

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What, no electrical problems.

 

My son's Clio 1.2 Dynamique (53 plate, 54k miles) has had the following problems;

 

1. Electric Sunroof leak

Removed roof lining/sunroof and sponge gasket had perished. Re-sealed and re-fitted sunroof. Solved.

 

2. Windscreen Leak

Remove dashboard, remove carpet and sponge sound deadening, remove perished original bond, apply new bond/seal. Remove external windscreen trim, remove old bond and apply new bond/sealant. Dry out interior, refit deadening, carpets and dashboard. Solved.

 

3. Springs.

3xcoil springs had snapped, (gotta love potholes). Strip down suspension and swap springs for new. Solved.

 

4. Rear light cluster not working.

All corroded, clean up and re-fit. Solved.

 

5. Rough Idle / Loss of Power / Cutting out

Removed and cleaned Crank sensor

Removed all under bonnet electrical contacts and cleaned with contact cleaner

Removed and cleaned throttle body

Removed anti-tamper metal shroud over ECU connector (as this eats into the loom at it vibrates). Luckily loom not damaged. Check yours & remove now JetSet

Removed throttle pedal potentiometer and cleaned.

Problems solved.

 

6. Loose/Wandering steeringTRE's are ok, yet to check rack and Universal Joint - problem ongoing.

 

Clio's are a nightmare, I'll never ever buy another. :bang:

 

Rant over :teeth:

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What, no electrical problems.

 

My son's Clio 1.2 Dynamique (53 plate, 54k miles) has had the following problems;

 

1. Electric Sunroof leak

Removed roof lining/sunroof and sponge gasket had perished. Re-sealed and re-fitted sunroof. Solved.

 

2. Windscreen Leak

Remove dashboard, remove carpet and sponge sound deadening, remove perished original bond, apply new bond/seal. Remove external windscreen trim, remove old bond and apply new bond/sealant. Dry out interior, refit deadening, carpets and dashboard. Solved.

 

3. Springs.

3xcoil springs had snapped, (gotta love potholes). Strip down suspension and swap springs for new. Solved.

 

4. Rear light cluster not working.

All corroded, clean up and re-fit. Solved.

 

5. Rough Idle / Loss of Power / Cutting out

Removed and cleaned Crank sensor

Removed all under bonnet electrical contacts and cleaned with contact cleaner

Removed and cleaned throttle body

Removed anti-tamper metal shroud over ECU connector (as this eats into the loom at it vibrates). Luckily loom not damaged. Check yours & remove now JetSet

Removed throttle pedal potentiometer and cleaned.

Problems solved.

 

6. Loose/Wandering steeringTRE's are ok, yet to check rack and Universal Joint - problem ongoing.

 

Clio's are a nightmare, I'll never ever buy another. :bang:

 

Rant over :teeth:

 

1 No Sunroof on the Authentique :thumbs:

 

3 Yeah, broke one of them too, right at the bottom it was snapped off, that was spotted at a previous service.

 

5 Engine is remarkably smooth, starts first time even after it stands for 2 or 3 weeks, will check that ECU shroud in the morning, thanks.

 

This wasn't the car I would have chosen as a second car, I reluctantly bought it from my daughter who needed the money to complete her University course....She is supposed to be buying it back from me at no doubt a much reduced price :shrug: , she completes her Master degree next month and with a bit of luck will stop bleeding me dry :lol:

 

 

Pete

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The cog thing you refer to is called a "reluctor ring" which goes around the cv joint. I replaced one on my missus peugeot 206CC last year. Peugeot said you had to buy the whole drive shaft. But, my local car spares shop actually sold just the cv joints with the ring on for £30 each. Took me about 45minutes to swap the CV joints over whilst taking my time, and fitted a new CV boot at the same time. Didnt even have to remove the drive shaft to do it. Nice and easy. You can actually buy just the ring of ebay for £2.75!!!!!!, but its easier to just swap the cv joint. £180 seems expensive, even if they have swapped the whole drive shaft!

 

Yeah, just looked at the bill and it was actually £130 for the part, he told me that sometimes they can be repaired but this one was completely rusted through. Still, he passed my 350Z with no advisories :)

 

 

Pete

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You paid £130 for an abs ring?

 

 

Yeah, they replaced the entire driveshaft, so effectively £130 for a ring :blush: . Seems to be a common problem with Clio's, I've spoken to someone else who also had to have the entire assembly replaced.

 

 

Pete

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It's a 20-30min job. You just knock the old ring off and brush it all down grease it slightly and then knock the new ring on. Sounds like he rung you out tbh. If it was the passenger side you would need your oil replaced too

 

 

You paid £130 for an abs ring?

 

 

Yeah, they replaced the entire driveshaft, so effectively £130 for a ring :blush: . Seems to be a common problem with Clio's, I've spoken to someone else who also had to have the entire assembly replaced.

 

 

Pete

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It's a 20-30min job. You just knock the old ring off and brush it all down grease it slightly and then knock the new ring on. Sounds like he rung you out tbh. If it was the passenger side you would need your oil replaced too

 

 

You paid £130 for an abs ring?

 

 

Yeah, they replaced the entire driveshaft, so effectively £130 for a ring :blush: . Seems to be a common problem with Clio's, I've spoken to someone else who also had to have the entire assembly replaced.

 

 

Pete

 

Yeah, 20->30min job for us, but the OP probably didnt fancy doing it himself. Also, depending upon the garage, they may not realise you can just replace the reluctor ring, and therefore have actually done the whole drive shaft.

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Wouldn't mind, but it only has 28k on the clock so it has to go :blush:

 

 

How much do you want for it? A low mileage run about with all that work done to it, ready to go. The best used motors are those that someone has serviced religiously, and just spent a load on and is disheartened with it so punts it on ;)

 

I'd keep it for another 8 months at least if I were you to get some value for money.

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You was overcharged about £127 but each to their own. :thumbs:

 

Yeah, but factor in the OP may have had to go out and buy the tools, then waste 30mins to an hour of his own time... that £127 ends up looking not too bad!

 

 

I've not done anything other than change oil, filter, plugs and wiper blades since the 70's. Every car I've had since 1976 has been brand new or less than 12 months old and other than The Escort RS Turbo and The Zed, none have been in my ownership for more than a couple of years. In my early motoring days I would tackle almost anything but (a) as you've said I don't have the tools and (B) I don't want to get by back into spasm again, I am in my 60's don't you know :lol:

 

 

Pete

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How much do you want for it? A low mileage run about with all that work done to it, ready to go. The best used motors are those that someone has serviced religiously, and just spent a load on and is disheartened with it so punts it on ;)

 

I'd keep it for another 8 months at least if I were you to get some value for money.

 

 

My daughter has first Dibs on it, it was her car before I bought it off her...long story. If she doesn't want it, or more likely can't come up with the cash (Deadline Jan 2013) then I'll MOT it and sell it for about 2 grand I should think. I paid her £3,500 about 3 years ago with 16k on the clock.

 

 

Pete

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