shire350Z Posted September 14, 2009 Author Share Posted September 14, 2009 Its a possibility but doubt it with how it was starting ill check it though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
narcotix Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 Just thought I'd provide an update on my situation ... The car was still giving my problems starting this morning when I left for work and the CEL, ESP Off and Skid Warning lights were still on ... Drove the car to work which is about an hour away and left it parked all day ... Then after work I went to start it and it started first time ... all the lights were as normal apart from the CEL light which was still on ... so drove the car to Nissan to get some coolant and when I got back it started first time again ... I haven't topped up the coolant yet, but it kind of suggests that it could be related to the battery ... any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shire350Z Posted September 14, 2009 Author Share Posted September 14, 2009 well i got back home started the car no problem and just the CEL light was on so did the ECU reset and went off no problems drove it 15mins turned the car off thought id try it again so went to fire it up and she struggled again and all the lights were back on!!! im guessing in the morning when i get to the car it will start up fine, seems to be that when left to go cold its starts fine but when trying to start after being run it struggles so this doesnt suggest battery to me!!! are you taking yours to nissan narcotix's to have the checks run bud?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
narcotix Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 Alright mate, I'm about 80% sure its the battery now ... After my last update I left the car parked for another hour or so before I topped the coolant ... But the coolant level on my Zed is slightly above max so there was no need ... anyway I tried to start it again and it worked first time ... so switched off and tried again and again no problems ... the CEL light was still on so I did the ECU reset again and sicne then it's been fine ... I'm not getting any of the lights anymore and the starting problems are resolved ... I've tried it a few more times since then and it's not had any problems ... I think all it needed was a good run; as it takes me around 40 minutes to get to work ... I've not done anything to the car other than fill up some fuel this morning and drive it ... so it's got to be something related to the battery in my opinion ... It maybe worth charging your battery overnight just to rule it out ... I've ordered myself some diagnostic kit which should arrive in a few days so I'll get it wired up and check for any weird sensor readings ... I'll let you know what I find ... Good luck with yours mate ... From my experience so far I'm sure it's nothing serious Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 James I'll check your battery on Wednesday bud and see if your alternators charging if you want too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shire350Z Posted September 15, 2009 Author Share Posted September 15, 2009 Cheers craig, well what I thought has happened again got in the car this morning and the lights were off apart from the CEL light and started fine! Was driving for about 7mins got the sudden power cut for a split second and the lights have come back on! Just bizarre how it only does it when the cars warm so to me that rules the battery out starter motor etc but we'l have a look craig, cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toon Chris Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Cheers craig, well what I thought has happened again got in the car this morning and the lights were off apart from the CEL light and started fine! Was driving for about 7mins got the sudden power cut for a split second and the lights have come back on! Just bizarre how it only does it when the cars warm so to me that rules the battery out starter motor etc but we'l have a look craig, cheers Sounds like the typical symptoms of a crank or cam sensor when the engine dies when warm, but an entire power loss would be faulty battery or (more likely) alternator electronics. My guess for 2p - lets see what the garage says! Good luck for something cheap and simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 could it possibly be a grounding issue? maybe thats a noob suggestion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
narcotix Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Ok so it seems that my problem is not completely resolved either yet ... I jumped in the car this morning and went to start it ... it did start up first time and then died about 5 seconds later ... so I tried again and it took about 10 seconds more than usual but still started up after that ... no lights were showing either so I thought it all was ok ... I was looking at the Rev counter while driving on the way to work and it seemed like it was slightly delayed at times and then jumped slightly to where it should be ... not sure what that means but it defintely wasn't happening before the these issues started ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350doc Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 As Toon says, sounds like a faulty crank or cam sensor. The OBD diagnostic code would give you the answer. This can lead to total power loss on the motorway, so I would get it sorted properly asap. Zmanalex has some sensors available, I believe. Beware that once you clear the diagnostic codes, some faults only show up again after 2 'hits', so the lights may be clear for a while, and then return. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shire350Z Posted September 15, 2009 Author Share Posted September 15, 2009 After speaking with nissan and my local garage they'v both hinted at a temperature sensor problem as I only get the problems when warm!so we'll see what happens at craig's weds just hope I get it sorted for sat's visit to CS but looking doubtfull Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350doc Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Have either of them read the fault code from the OBD sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shire350Z Posted September 15, 2009 Author Share Posted September 15, 2009 No, thats what I ment when we'l see what happens at craig's I.e muddy as he has a reader! Which will hopefully pick it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Have either of them read the fault code from the OBD sensor? This seems like a startling ommision to me. The code reader will tell all (well get you going anyway!). Get them read guys My guess would be either faulty crank position sensor or alternator problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
narcotix Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 After some research this morning I too am begining to think it is probably due to a faulty Crank Position Sensor now ... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crank_sensor The symptoms I've been experiencing sound very similar to those described in the the above link ... I have'nt had the CEL light come back on since yesterday so will wait for it to come back and try and get it diagnosed ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350doc Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Beware that the engine could cut out suddenly on the motorway, which is obviously very dangerous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
narcotix Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 By the way how difficult is it to replace the Crank Position Sensor on a Zed? I've ordered the part from my local Nissan stealer and it will be arriving tomorrow morning ... Is it worth me having a go or should I just leave it to the professionals? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350doc Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Zedmanalex can advize on this one. I believe it is reasonably straightforward to do yourself. I paid the dealer to do it though. Bear in mind that it could also be the cam sensor. The OBD error code shall reveal all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
narcotix Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Well .. I haven't had the car wired up to an OBD reader yet but I've just done the ECU Reset procedure and read the code when it flashes up in that morse code type of way ... It's confirmed that in my case it definitely is the Crank Position Sensor as it flashed up 335 ... Hopefully once I have that fitted all will be back to normal .... Thanks very much to all who have provided solutions and ideas etc ... I will update once the smile has been restored to my face .. LoL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shire350Z Posted September 16, 2009 Author Share Posted September 16, 2009 Right guys, been round to craigs and came up on the code reader that its a camshaft position sensor malfunction code P0340 Two things Firstly Does anyone know if that code means the right or left hand bank as theres two sensors in the engine and dont really want to have to buy two if theres only a problem with one. Secondary and more importantly would you mostly believe that its just a problem with the sensor or could there be an actual problem within the camshafts and the sensors picking this up! Thanks guys and thanks very much to craig again for helping me out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shire350Z Posted September 16, 2009 Author Share Posted September 16, 2009 iv also found out of the US sites that the if you replace the cam sensor then that will make the car start ok but the Slip and ESP light will stay on as there a ABS fault that a ABS code reader will only pick up!!!!! also that the P0340 code is for the left bank but im sure on the manual craig brought up it said the left bank was the passenger side and on a US site its says (rule of thumb-drivers side is left) but that would be be right would'nt it?? as long as the P0340 code is for the left bank but then im still at a loose end to the ESP off light and SLIP light if there only read by a ABS reader oooo its never straight forward!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Crank position sensor is very easy to replace, but be warned it works to a defined air gap. PO335 CPS A Circuit Malfunction PO340 CPS Circuit Malfunction PO345 CPS "A" Circuit (Bank 2) PO365 CPS "B" Circuit (Bank 1) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shire350Z Posted September 16, 2009 Author Share Posted September 16, 2009 buts the camshaft sensor that the code reader brought up for me and when i google it and look on most other sites they seem to say that code P0340 is left bank camshaft sensor not sayin this is right just tryin to find the fault without going to nissan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
narcotix Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Shire ... I not sure but I think that the ESP Off and Skid Warning lights are related to the faulty sensor ... when my car has fired up first time I don't get these lights showing ... it's only when I have to crank for a long time that these lights appear ... and even then after leaving it for about an hour they are off again ... I think I'm just gonna leave the fitting to the professionals ... I did find a pdf explaining what was involved for replacing the Crank Position Sensor but after ZMANALEX's comment I don't want to screw things up .. So just to confirm ... I'm correct in thinking that a 335 error code refers to a faulty Crank Position Sensor ... right? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Shire ... So just to confirm ... I'm correct in thinking that a 335 error code refers to a faulty Crank Position Sensor ... right? Thanks Not according to my Nissan Workshop Manual. PO335 is a Generic DTC Definition for CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR A CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION. Please refer to my post above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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