G1en Posted July 24, 2023 Share Posted July 24, 2023 Firstly, apologies if this have been on a topic before, just needed a quick insight as i will be trying to sort tomorrow. Driver side window has stopped working but when i press the switch i can hear the motor trying to operate it, like a clicking sound one way and a grinding noise the other so I would assume the switch and power are fine. Is it the motor/regulator or is something likely to be stuck?, everything online just shows replacing a bad motor but none of them state if they can hear any noise before replacing, read that gears can wear out? this sounds plausible but is that in the motor unit itself or another part? anyone had same issue and can give a quick diagnostic before ordering a motor and pulling door apart. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShortPaul Posted July 24, 2023 Share Posted July 24, 2023 There's a motor and a regulator/mech hopefully this helps 😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G1en Posted July 25, 2023 Author Share Posted July 25, 2023 Had a look today and its the actual switch that is making the noises, nothing coming from the window motor, all other buttons on the switch (passenger window, central locking) work fine. anyone had this before, is the switch making noises because the motor has failed or has the switch/circuit gone bad? Only safe option is to get a switch unit and a motor unless its the wiring/signal between them thats failed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azurez33 Posted July 26, 2023 Share Posted July 26, 2023 Might be a wire break in the door joint, had this before and it would operate my door locks 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G1en Posted July 31, 2023 Author Share Posted July 31, 2023 Still scratching my head with this, now swapped the motor, switch unit and checked continuity of wiring- all ok but window still not working. as per video below comments the noise stops if I unclip the motor connector (that feeds through the door) so my thoughts, does the motor need grounding somehow? I also noticed both the old motor and new one, you cannot move the centre spigot (that turns the cable/runners) I assumed it should be like this but maybe not? did I get a seized motor off ebay? also checked the runners/guides that move the window up/down, they are all moving freely and good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted July 31, 2023 Share Posted July 31, 2023 Is the regulator free? Is the square drive in the regulator intact? The motor does not require a separate ground as such. Disconnect the motor from the regulator and with all the electrics connected check the operation of the motor using the switch. If the motor works and the square drive on the motor is good then it will be the regulator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G1en Posted July 31, 2023 Author Share Posted July 31, 2023 Think i may have narrowed it down some more but even more confused now, i took everything apart again, checked all wiring for continuity which was good, wired the motor unit to a 9v battery which i saw on a youtube vid to check if it works, i could hear a click but no movement so hooked it up to the main car battery and hey presto, motor is working. So motor is good, switch is good, connectors are good and wiring good. It can only be the fact its getting 8-9 volts power supply in the car and it needs nearer 12v to function but how the hell can i get more voltage to it, is there a drain somewhere? How come the other window works fine? any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted August 1, 2023 Share Posted August 1, 2023 Power window regulators are in stock and good to go same/next day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G1en Posted August 1, 2023 Author Share Posted August 1, 2023 On 26/07/2023 at 22:44, Azurez33 said: Might be a wire break in the door joint, had this before and it would operate my door locks 😂 this is only thing left to investigate really, connected the motor/relay unit up to battery direct and it works fine, does the same weird noises with the old switch and new switch so extremely unlikely both are defective, wiring looks fine in door so will have to check the door joint, i did drill the connector a while back to run new speaker wire so that may have caused an issue but has been working fine for last 2 years. Also noticed today, only the drivers side wing mirror folds in (and really struggles, again like its not getting enough power), the passenger side doesn't move at all and when i try the drivers window switch all the led in switch start flickering as well as the noises, so must be something wiring/earth based somewhere, just so annoying. I am also thinking i have driven home from racing recently in monsoon conditions so possibly water has gotten into the electrics somewhere and may be the issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azurez33 Posted August 1, 2023 Share Posted August 1, 2023 54 minutes ago, G1en said: this is only thing left to investigate really, connected the motor/relay unit up to battery direct and it works fine, does the same weird noises with the old switch and new switch so extremely unlikely both are defective, wiring looks fine in door so will have to check the door joint, i did drill the connector a while back to run new speaker wire so that may have caused an issue but has been working fine for last 2 years. Also noticed today, only the drivers side wing mirror folds in (and really struggles, again like its not getting enough power), the passenger side doesn't move at all and when i try the drivers window switch all the led in switch start flickering as well as the noises, so must be something wiring/earth based somewhere, just so annoying. I am also thinking i have driven home from racing recently in monsoon conditions so possibly water has gotten into the electrics somewhere and may be the issue? You need to check the door wiring bud then eliminate that from the equation, don’t think of too much at once, Japanese cars always suffer with door wiring in door jams 😂 fuses are inside the car and under the battery cover trim so would be surprised if it was water related if you’ve eliminated the motor and the switch in the door Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G1en Posted August 12, 2023 Author Share Posted August 12, 2023 (edited) Finally got it working. took the door card off again, undid the connection that goes through the door, cut open all the rubber sheaths and checked every wire for continuity and/or damage that runs into the car. Every one was fine. was at a total loss and accepted the fact that i would just have to live with it when upon putting the door connector back together realised i didnt have the locking part of the block, think i had butchered it and threw it away when i run new speaker wires through door. I thought to myself i wonder if the connector had just worked its way loose? low and behold pushed it together as hard as i could and when everything else was back plugged in, the window worked and so did the wing mirrors! so all along it was just a loose connector pic below of which one im referring to: the main connector that goes through the door jamb, anyone elses will have the additional plastic tab that locks it in. At least in my case if things stop working again, its the first place to look and a 2 minute fix. RESULT Edited August 12, 2023 by G1en Spelling 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted August 12, 2023 Share Posted August 12, 2023 Oh no, self inflicted issue are horrible but at least you found it in the end. What will you do about the plug now to keep it secure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G1en Posted August 12, 2023 Author Share Posted August 12, 2023 Use the force Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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