Zalas Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 Trying to identify a couple of parts for the back of the Zed that have seen better days. Have tracked down the exhaust brackets from Torqen but struggling to identify the other bits: This bracket: seemingly not supporting anything? And this brace? Can't really see what it's doing... crusty! It's a long ££ road ahead I feel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 Plenty rust free are in stock. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vroom811 Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 The second one is the Pin Stay. It holds the rear subframe on. No idea what the first one is. I assume its a rear tow point. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zalas Posted June 27, 2021 Author Share Posted June 27, 2021 1 hour ago, vroom811 said: The second one is the Pin Stay. It holds the rear subframe on. No idea what the first one is. I assume its a rear tow point. Bah, pin stay. Subframe? Not that important then 😂😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zalas Posted June 30, 2021 Author Share Posted June 30, 2021 From a related link via google I think the call about 'towing point' is almost correct:Thanks for the tip, Jason. Since posting my original message, I discovered that hook. But, it's not actually a tow hook. It's used to tie the car down for transport. It will bend if a significant side load is put on it, although it is stout enough to use when pulling the car straight back. That's what I'm told, anyway. Both sound plausible - either way it's going to come off for strip and paint rather than replace... That's what AA is for Al, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zalas Posted July 2, 2021 Author Share Posted July 2, 2021 (edited) Thanks to @ZMANALEX for the new pin, and Torqen for the brace and brackets. Question: Removing the outermost nuts from the brace seems to be wanting to drop the ENTIRE subframe. Can I use a strategically placed jack on the subframe to support it and stop it from dropping too much? I'm mildly concerned about the alignment to the diff etc. Is there any way to reduce the pressure on the jack? Would removing the road springs on the rear help? I really want to avoid dropping the subframe as it's seemingly a total ballache. The FSM steps for subframe are: Removal and Installation AES000BV REMOVAL 1. Remove tire with power tool. 2. Remove brake caliper with power tool. Hang it in a place where it will not interfere with work. Refer to BR38, "REAR DISC BRAKE (AD14VE TYPE)" , BR-44, "REAR DISC BRAKE (OPB13VB TYPE)" . NOTE: Avoid depressing brake pedal while brake caliper is removed. 3. Remove rear exhaust tube. Refer to EX-3, "EXHAUST SYSTEM" . 4. Remove stabilizer bar. Refer to RSU-16, "STABILIZER BAR" . 5. Remove drive shaft. Refer to RAX-10, "REAR DRIVE SHAFT" . 6. Remove final drive. Refer to RFD-10, "REAR FINAL DRIVE ASSEMBLY" . 7. Separate the attachment between parking brake cable and vehicle and rear suspension member. Refer to PB-3, "PARKING BRAKE CONTROL" . 8. Remove rear lower link and coil spring. Refer to RSU-15, "REAR LOWER LINK & COIL SPRING" . 9. Remove fixing bolt in lower side of shock absorber. 10. Set jack under rear suspension member. 11. Remove fixing bolts and nuts of tunnel stay and member stay from vehicle. 12. Remove fixing bolts and nuts of rear pin stay and then remove rear pin stay from vehicle. 13. Slowly lowering jack, then remove rear suspension member, suspension arm, radius rod, front lower link and axle from vehicle as a unit. 14. Remove fixing bolts and nuts, then remove suspension arm, front lower link, radius rod from rear suspension member I need to do all those just to get to step 12 Surely that can't be right for simply replacing the pin? A. Edited July 2, 2021 by Zalas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zalas Posted September 28, 2021 Author Share Posted September 28, 2021 Answer with long old followwup. You don't need to do those steps if not dropping the subframe-just jack up car, leave jack under diff, add axle stands, swear and curse at the 19mm bastard that moves but has very heavily corroded thread on the bolt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zalas Posted September 28, 2021 Author Share Posted September 28, 2021 So the pin is replaced and I've started on a rust and recovery job as I thought I might. Wheel well fun and games: structural or non structural? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zalas Posted September 28, 2021 Author Share Posted September 28, 2021 This is looking at the wheel arch lining closest to the front of the car, and removed sill cover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azurez33 Posted September 29, 2021 Share Posted September 29, 2021 ****ing he’ll mate that’s pretty bad and yes within 12” of a suspension component or seatbelt Anchorage, pretty sure it’s within Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 Not that this'll specifically help but I think this guy is also going through the same kind of thing..https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC39KB7-StA774VHp9s4i04A/videos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zalas Posted November 14, 2022 Author Share Posted November 14, 2022 So holy thread revival batman, an update. It passed its MOT finally, I just need the clips for the sill cover. Been to the paint shop, stone chipped/Bilt Hamber UB50 applied, had the rear arch filled as well where it went through outer and inner skin. Now to start on the front! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdm2003 Posted November 14, 2022 Share Posted November 14, 2022 Another one saved well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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