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dave_7

370Z Nismo Mk1 - Fast road/track build

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4 hours ago, Lewis Schwier said:

Some lovely shots as usual! In terms of your spacers I was just speaking to a lad yesterday that had a Nismo, Mk2 mind you but he had loads of problems with his Eibach spacers. He changed to the Z1 Motorsport spacers with the extended nuts and he said it cured the problems completely. Also might be worth using some 3in1 anti-seize copper grease, will help them not get as stuck. 

Thanks buddy.

 

Unfortunately the spacers are going to have to get cut off. I split a nut in half on Saturday by drilling down both sides, so essentially the nut was in 2 halves and it was still welded to the stud! The nuts are made from aluminium (and very  soft aluminium at that, i managed to round one off with 1 hand!), which in hindsight is absolutely shocking from Eibach. Really not something you expect from a company with a reputation like that.

 

There was plenty of copper grease on them and they were torqued upto the factory lug nut spec. They have just galled so badly from heat cycling! They were only fitted in January as well.

 

I will probably complain to Eibach once its all sorted as these thing obliviously aren't cheap. When searching online for this issue, Eibach spacers are the only ones that come up, no other brand seems to have this problem. 

 

Either way @Adrian@TORQEN is sorting me out with some new wheel studs which should arrive today, as well a host of other new parts. Great service from them to pull me out the sh*t so quickly. 

 

I will post some pictures of the butchered spacers up for everyone's amusement when they're finally off. 

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In other news, additional fuel pump is here courtesy of @nissanman312, so i big thanks to him for sorting this out! Just need a few more bits and that will be ready for fitting and testing.
 
All parts are from Protec, so should be no issues with quality. 
 
Short term plan for testing, I think I am just going to wire it to a 12v plug, route it to inside the armrest console and simply plug it in when at the track, before hard wiring it in with a switch further down the line. 
 
20200720_170028.jpg.331ed503173be4e48d050c87e67a0526.jpg
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1 hour ago, dave_7 said:
In other news, additional fuel pump is here courtesy of @nissanman312, so i big thanks to him for sorting this out! Just need a few more bits and that will be ready for fitting and testing.
 
All parts are from Protec, so should be no issues with quality. 
 
Short term plan for testing, I think I am just going to wire it to a 12v plug, route it to inside the armrest console and simply plug it in when at the track, before hard wiring it in with a switch further down the line. 
 
20200720_170028.jpg.331ed503173be4e48d050c87e67a0526.jpg

Looking good mate

Mines been in a good while now and hasn't given me any issues and allows me to run to empty without suffering starvation 

 

Protec are having my car in soon to design a purpose built kit for the problem but for now that should keep you lapping  on less than quarter tanks :D

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5 hours ago, dave_7 said:

Either way @Adrian@TORQEN is sorting me out with some new wheel studs which should arrive today, as well a host of other new parts. Great service from them to pull me out the sh*t so quickly. 

Always a pleasure, Sir! :throb:

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quick update from the weekend. Took the garage i booked the car in at over 2 hours to remove the chocolate Eibach nuts, they are now destroyed but at least they are off! Raised the issue with Eibach and they literally couldn't give a monkeys! I wont be spending anymore money there thats for sure.

 

Either way it meant I could fit the fresh discs and pads ready for Anglesey in a couple of weeks. Spacer are back on now with some proper steel nuts this time.

 

Also checked my catch cans. They are certainly doing they're job and have stopped a considerable amount of sludge going anyway near the maf's or throttle bodies. Definitely worth while for anyone who wants to drive one of these cars hard.

 

Went for a good 4 hour blast out round Wales yesterday as well (should have taken some pictures).

 

Fuel tank is now suitably empty so i can attempt to fit the additional fuel pump over the weekend along with diff bushing, diff brace, subframe collars and engine mounts (a lot to do in a day but I'll see how i get on).

20200725_112045.jpg.477a15479860b5f50d759c596ec68e37.jpg

 

20200208_150705.jpg.a46e374d9c951bd7d5c22322927c8fca.jpg1564576656_20200725_193909(1).jpg.70a81135f0143b9448a9c773cf7d23cf.jpg20200725_193540.jpg.a57ecd1410ae4fd10b9a9c5995eeec67.jpg

 

 

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2 hours ago, dave_7 said:

quick update from the weekend. Took the garage i booked the car in at over 2 hours to remove the chocolate Eibach nuts, they are now destroyed but at least they are off! Raised the issue with Eibach and they literally couldn't give a monkeys! I wont be spending anymore money there thats for sure.

 

Either way it meant I could fit the fresh discs and pads ready for Anglesey in a couple of weeks. Spacer are back on now with some proper steel nuts this time.

 

Also checked my catch cans. They are certainly doing they're job and have stopped a considerable amount of sludge going anyway near the maf's or throttle bodies. Definitely worth while for anyone who wants to drive one of these cars hard.

 

Went for a good 4 hour blast out round Wales yesterday as well (should have taken some pictures).

 

Fuel tank is now suitably empty so i can attempt to fit the additional fuel pump over the weekend along with diff bushing, diff brace, subframe collars and engine mounts (a lot to do in a day but I'll see how i get on).

20200725_112045.jpg.477a15479860b5f50d759c596ec68e37.jpg

 

20200208_150705.jpg.a46e374d9c951bd7d5c22322927c8fca.jpg1564576656_20200725_193909(1).jpg.70a81135f0143b9448a9c773cf7d23cf.jpg20200725_193540.jpg.a57ecd1410ae4fd10b9a9c5995eeec67.jpg

 

 

Nice list of jobs to do there 

You will notice the difference in the rear end with those bits 

 

Throw the vibratechnics gearbox mount on the list you won't regret it B)

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14 hours ago, nissanman312 said:

Nice list of jobs to do there 

You will notice the difference in the rear end with those bits 

 

Throw the vibratechnics gearbox mount on the list you won't regret it B)

Don't wory, the vibratechnics gearbox mount is high on the to do list. Bank balance currently is on life support after the kicking its taken over longdown! These cars are real wallet laxatives!

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2 part update today from a load of work i did last week.

 

Part 1 is the home brew fuel starve kit to overcome the fuel starve issue on track, car currently starves on long right handers even with 3/4 of a tank and constantly refuelling through the day gets old quickly.

 

Credit to @nissanman312 for pointing me in the right direction with this one and being on hand to answer my questions as obviously anything fuel related is more daunting that the usually job!

 

Basically uses a low pressure protec fuel pump mounted at the bottom of the passenger side portion of the fuel tank to pump fuel from that side, over the hump into the tank and into the stock fuel bucket in the drivers side where the stock fuel pump is. 

 

Fuel pump is mounted to the structure inside the tank using cable ties with the filter as close to the bottoms as possible. Obviously doing this on as emptier tank as possible is a must.

 

20200804_190742.jpg.5d2ee9a778953482ad119430b8884219.jpg

 

Submersible fuel hose is routed from the Protec pump outlet over the hump in the tank and into the top of the opening in the top of the stock fuel bucket, again held in position with cable ties. 

20200802_104714.jpg.d22e7dfd463030498a6b7ccfe0a6683a.jpg

 

Bulkhead rated for use with fuel added to the top of the fuel sender unit

20200804_191859.jpg.615aa91318daf245bfa022093f0d1089.jpg

 

cable routed through the access panel via a rubber grommet

20200804_194004.jpg.cda3aa7e10f2e1b321cfa49e4855d6c9.jpg

 

i added a plug at this point so i could split the loom without issue, if i ever need to take the sender unit out again 

20200809_123756.jpg.44aae5e78c9f0fb6ad897884189a9404.jpg

 

and for now Ive routed some 4 core armoured cable into the the armrest and wired to a 12v plug

20200809_125853.jpg.b3625db535a55e30675c98edc2ef20b6.jpg

 

so the plan is plug the pump in whilst on track days and i can unplug it on the road so as not to run the pump dry.

 

when you plug it in with the engine off you can hear the pump whirring away in there so i know it work.

 

the setup is basically what Z1 offer in their fuel starve kit without the hydromat and without splicing the power for the pump into the stock fuel pump loom (meaning its on at all times).

 

I am on track day Sunday at Anglesey which will be ultimately be where i find out if this was worth all the trouble!

 

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update part 2 is basically the fitment of:

 

white diff bushing kit

z1 rear subframe collars

bell raceworks diff brace

 

 

as expected, the diff bushing in the subframe was a bish to get out. 50mm hole saw, 8mm drill, recipricating saw and a big hammer. Took just over an hour for it to surrender.

20200802_183207.jpg.fe44de7fc2b00d1ece05b6650dead8ec.jpg

 

 

fitting the new bushing was a 5 minute job on the other hand. I lobbed them all in the freezer the nigh before so they all flew in.

20200802_190007.jpg.e5540bc0768512ab11e98a277c1ac4d7.jpg20200802_190349.jpg.0efcacac8566ea0adab8b4d2fdf8946f.jpg

 

 

The diff brace was not as simple as its made out to be. I got it to line up just about but that's with the diff in loosely and all shafts disconnected, if you where to just over this up to your diff with everything bolted up you'd have some trouble I'd imagine. 

 

Also there is a nut with locating boss welded to it that is the top mounting point (not seen in the picture), which needs to be fitted from the inside face of the subframe which was a bit fiddly even which the entire rear end disassembled. Still very doable though.

20200806_113213.jpg.dbabe1ab1a7e15cf6eaf06d4eea614fd.jpg

 

last up was the subframe collars, once everything is off the car these slip in nicely.

20200806_124310.jpg.35ca8162872b9a7556f172295745dfba.jpg

 

Now obviously i can't comment on the difference all these things have made individually, but as as collective I am absolutely blown away by the difference they have made. I wasn't expecting to feel that much of a benefit on the road but the difference is staggering. Its a very difficult thing to describe but basically feels like you're right foot has a much more direct connection with the back end. You can pile the power on much sooner and at a quicker rate because the way its delivered is much smooth so unsettles the car less. 

 

Its also stopped the intrusive TC system kicking in at every opportunity because the diff isn't waggling round like a turd in a bucket.

 

Honestly wasn't expecting the difference to be be this good but this has left me pleasantly surprised! 

 

A proper hardcore diff needs to get added to my wishlist now!

 

 

 

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10 hours ago, dave_7 said:

update part 2 is basically the fitment of:

 

white diff bushing kit

z1 rear subframe collars

bell raceworks diff brace

 

 

as expected, the diff bushing in the subframe was a bish to get out. 50mm hole saw, 8mm drill, recipricating saw and a big hammer. Took just over an hour for it to surrender.

20200802_183207.jpg.fe44de7fc2b00d1ece05b6650dead8ec.jpg

 

 

fitting the new bushing was a 5 minute job on the other hand. I lobbed them all in the freezer the nigh before so they all flew in.

20200802_190007.jpg.e5540bc0768512ab11e98a277c1ac4d7.jpg20200802_190349.jpg.0efcacac8566ea0adab8b4d2fdf8946f.jpg

 

 

The diff brace was not as simple as its made out to be. I got it to line up just about but that's with the diff in loosely and all shafts disconnected, if you where to just over this up to your diff with everything bolted up you'd have some trouble I'd imagine. 

 

Also there is a nut with locating boss welded to it that is the top mounting point (not seen in the picture), which needs to be fitted from the inside face of the subframe which was a bit fiddly even which the entire rear end disassembled. Still very doable though.

20200806_113213.jpg.dbabe1ab1a7e15cf6eaf06d4eea614fd.jpg

 

last up was the subframe collars, once everything is off the car these slip in nicely.

20200806_124310.jpg.35ca8162872b9a7556f172295745dfba.jpg

 

Now obviously i can't comment on the difference all these things have made individually, but as as collective I am absolutely blown away by the difference they have made. I wasn't expecting to feel that much of a benefit on the road but the difference is staggering. Its a very difficult thing to describe but basically feels like you're right foot has a much more direct connection with the back end. You can pile the power on much sooner and at a quicker rate because the way its delivered is much smooth so unsettles the car less. 

 

Its also stopped the intrusive TC system kicking in at every opportunity because the diff isn't waggling round like a turd in a bucket.

 

Honestly wasn't expecting the difference to be be this good but this has left me pleasantly surprised! 

 

A proper hardcore diff needs to get added to my wishlist now!

 

 

 

They are brilliant i love mine 

 

Did you double check the whitline instructions on those diff ears ? They were wrong at some point and it destroyed my crown wheel and pinion as the diff was running out of line 

 

I cant remember which way round they went now tho but if you eye them with the old bush it's clear to see 

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11 hours ago, dave_7 said:

2 part update today from a load of work i did last week.

 

Part 1 is the home brew fuel starve kit to overcome the fuel starve issue on track, car currently starves on long right handers even with 3/4 of a tank and constantly refuelling through the day gets old quickly.

 

Credit to @nissanman312 for pointing me in the right direction with this one and being on hand to answer my questions as obviously anything fuel related is more daunting that the usually job!

 

Basically uses a low pressure protec fuel pump mounted at the bottom of the passenger side portion of the fuel tank to pump fuel from that side, over the hump into the tank and into the stock fuel bucket in the drivers side where the stock fuel pump is. 

 

Fuel pump is mounted to the structure inside the tank using cable ties with the filter as close to the bottoms as possible. Obviously doing this on as emptier tank as possible is a must.

 

20200804_190742.jpg.5d2ee9a778953482ad119430b8884219.jpg

 

Submersible fuel hose is routed from the Protec pump outlet over the hump in the tank and into the top of the opening in the top of the stock fuel bucket, again held in position with cable ties. 

20200802_104714.jpg.d22e7dfd463030498a6b7ccfe0a6683a.jpg

 

Bulkhead rated for use with fuel added to the top of the fuel sender unit

20200804_191859.jpg.615aa91318daf245bfa022093f0d1089.jpg

 

cable routed through the access panel via a rubber grommet

20200804_194004.jpg.cda3aa7e10f2e1b321cfa49e4855d6c9.jpg

 

i added a plug at this point so i could split the loom without issue, if i ever need to take the sender unit out again 

20200809_123756.jpg.44aae5e78c9f0fb6ad897884189a9404.jpg

 

and for now Ive routed some 4 core armoured cable into the the armrest and wired to a 12v plug

20200809_125853.jpg.b3625db535a55e30675c98edc2ef20b6.jpg

 

so the plan is plug the pump in whilst on track days and i can unplug it on the road so as not to run the pump dry.

 

when you plug it in with the engine off you can hear the pump whirring away in there so i know it work.

 

the setup is basically what Z1 offer in their fuel starve kit without the hydromat and without splicing the power for the pump into the stock fuel pump loom (meaning its on at all times).

 

I am on track day Sunday at Anglesey which will be ultimately be where i find out if this was worth all the trouble!

 

nice job mate like I say ill be working with protec on a more permanent solution soon but if anyone wants this set up in the mean time just give me a shout 

 

I cant wait to hear your thoughts it works a treat for me i hope you see the same results 

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I remember clearly the difference whiteline diff poly bushes made to my 350z, let alone all those other goodies. No axle tramp now chap :D

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On 14/08/2020 at 21:20, nissanman312 said:

They are brilliant i love mine 

 

Did you double check the whitline instructions on those diff ears ? They were wrong at some point and it destroyed my crown wheel and pinion as the diff was running out of line 

 

I cant remember which way round they went now tho but if you eye them with the old bush it's clear to see 

Cheers for the heads up on this.

 

Luckily, after much digging, looks like I may have them the right way round. Like we said earlier I am gonna manually measure the old bushing and compare to the new next time I am under the car. Then also change the diff oil and if there is any sign of metal shavings in it i know something is not right. I am fairly confident its is right going off all the digging I've done on the US forum but you can never be too sure! 

 

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/100343-rear-diff-bushing-top.html

 

 

On 15/08/2020 at 17:31, davey_83 said:

I remember clearly the difference whiteline diff poly bushes made to my 350z, let alone all those other goodies. No axle tramp now chap :D

Oh yes it has made a huge difference. Another thing that was noticeably better at Anglesey yesterday is when the car does oversteer and step out the feedback from modulating the throttle is bring it back into line is so much crisper. Real confidence inspiring stuff!

 

At one point i even managed to catch a slide going down the corkscrew there, I will have to dig out the footage 

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Also additional fuel pump was a huge success, managed to run down to use over a quarter of a tank with zero issues! I am confident you could run it even lower if you wanted too.

 

Make a big difference not only shedding a bit of weight but not having to top the fuel off after every other session.

 

Really pleased with the outcome with it would 100% recommend for anyone else with the fuel starve issues!

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You should have dumped out the vlsd and put something a bit more capable in there. I know it's not cheap changing the LSD but it is the best mod (along with AD08R tyres) I've done.

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31 minutes ago, Bry said:

You should have dumped out the vlsd and put something a bit more capable in there. I know it's not cheap changing the LSD but it is the best mod (along with AD08R tyres) I've done.

Its on my wish list but like you said not a cheap bit of kit by a long shot, do think it would make a difference though.

 

The stock vlsd is not horrendous by any means but at the same time isn't great either. I feel it will become a must for me further down the line.

 

Which diff did you go for? Does it live up-to the hype?

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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, dave_7 said:

Its on my wish list but like you said not a cheap bit of kit by a long shot, do think it would make a difference though.

 

The stock vlsd is not horrendous by any means but at the same time isn't great either. I feel it will become a must for me further down the line.

 

Which diff did you go for? Does it live up-to the hype?

I have an OS GIKEN 1.5 way with 4.08 final drive and solid diff bushes. I found the vlsd very unpredictable and was often spinning up the inside tyre. I've never fitted an after market LSD to a car before so didn't know what difference it would make other than to stop the inside wheel from spinning up on tight turns. I honestly was blown away at how much of an improvement it has made. The car not only has much more grip, it is now so much more stable and smoother in the corners. It's difficult for me to explain but it requires alot less effort to drive fast in corners now and it is very confidence inspiring. Strangely it's given my car more front end grip too (no idea how that's possible?). I don't know what sort of witchcraft a good LSD does but oh my lord does it work . Wish you could drive mine for a comparison. I'm aware that after spending alot of money on a part, that most of us will convince ourselves that it was worth  it but if the LSD I bought made no difference to the vlsd then I would definitely share that opinion. I think the 4.08 final drive will be a personal preference over the stock 3.69 as I didn't think the stock 3.69 was that low. After fitting the 4.08 fd I was pleasantly surprised as it makes the car feel more like a sprinter compared to a marathon runner.

Edited by Bry
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8 hours ago, Bry said:

I have an OS GIKEN 1.5 way with 4.08 final drive and solid diff bushes. I found the vlsd very unpredictable and was often spinning up the inside tyre. I've never fitted an after market LSD to a car before so didn't know what difference it would make other than to stop the inside wheel from spinning up on tight turns. I honestly was blown away at how much of an improvement it has made. The car not only has much more grip, it is now so much more stable and smoother in the corners. It's difficult for me to explain but it requires alot less effort to drive fast in corners now and it is very confidence inspiring. Strangely it's given my car more front end grip too (no idea how that's possible?). I don't know what sort of witchcraft a good LSD does but oh my lord does it work . Wish you could drive mine for a comparison. I'm aware that after spending alot of money on a part, that most of us will convince ourselves that it was worth  it but if the LSD I bought made no difference to the vlsd then I would definitely share that opinion. I think the 4.08 final drive will be a personal preference over the stock 3.69 as I didn't think the stock 3.69 was that low. After fitting the 4.08 fd I was pleasantly surprised as it makes the car feel more like a sprinter compared to a marathon runner.

Well now i want one even more!! It does sound like a big improvement and you aren't the only person to say so. What other suspension/handling changes have you made if you don't mind me asking? It's always good to hear from someone with similar end goals who is further down the line

 

The wish list for this car is never ending. I had better try and save some pennies over the winter

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2 minutes ago, dave_7 said:

Well now i want one even more!! It does sound like a big improvement and you aren't the only person to say so. What other suspension/handling changes have you made if you don't mind me asking? It's always good to hear from someone with similar end goals who is further down the line

 

The wish list for this car is never ending. I had better try and save some pennies over the winter

Not done much really . MCA coilovers. Spl rear camber and toe arms. Yokohama AD08R tyres and high temp brake/clutch fluid. The LSD and tyres made the biggest difference but as always this highlighted the next weakness, the seats! I kept sliding about so put a bucket seat in. I fortunate where I live as I have hours of amazing mountain roads which really push the car to its handling limits and currently the weak link is me ! Wish list is , Front spl camber arms and track rod ends. Brake cooling ducts and s/steel brake lines. I have an engine oil cooler but may fit a diff oil cooler too

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Car has hfc's +cat back exhaust as well as ecutek remap. 

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On 18/08/2020 at 09:28, Bry said:

Not done much really . MCA coilovers. Spl rear camber and toe arms. Yokohama AD08R tyres and high temp brake/clutch fluid. The LSD and tyres made the biggest difference but as always this highlighted the next weakness, the seats! I kept sliding about so put a bucket seat in. I fortunate where I live as I have hours of amazing mountain roads which really push the car to its handling limits and currently the weak link is me ! Wish list is , Front spl camber arms and track rod ends. Brake cooling ducts and s/steel brake lines. I have an engine oil cooler but may fit a diff oil cooler too

Looks like our end goals are very similar. Its a real shame they've discontinued the AD08R, as their predecessor - the AD08RS sounds a bit poo from what I have been hearing about them

 

100% agreed about the seat, i run a CG lock which is a big help but no substitute for a proper fixed back bucket seat. For me one of the main issues is going to be getting an aftermarket sear to sit lower than stock. I'm 6ft 5 so my helmet rubs on the roof liner. I'm not fussed about having rails so will probably mount directly to the floor pan as long as I can find somewhere to fab me up a sub frame. 

 

I have also looked into DIY brake cooling ducts, piping from cutouts in an aluminium under tray. Never got anywhere with it though. Car needs them though the dust boots in my calipers are toast :lol: and even after a cool down lap my brakes can still be billowing when i come back into the paddock

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I have a bucket seat bolted straight to the floor so have heaps of head room (I'm a midget at 6ft compared to you). The driving position is spot on now as the stock seat is way too high.

     20190512_142955.jpg.0392d75c265dfa912a9bf535351edefd.jpg

20190512_143037.jpg

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8 hours ago, Bry said:

I have a bucket seat bolted straight to the floor so have heaps of head room (I'm a midget at 6ft compared to you). The driving position is spot on now as the stock seat is way too high.

     20190512_142955.jpg.0392d75c265dfa912a9bf535351edefd.jpg

20190512_143037.jpg

That looks so much better! you can see just looking that they sit a fair bit lower than the stock seats. Plus the weight saving from taking those heavy stock seats along with electric motors is a bonus!

 

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A few shots from last weekend at Anglesey. Awesome day and stayed dry all day. Only 30 cars allowed booked on due to currently local restrictions which meant loads of track time and only 1 red flag all day!!

 

50238398611_12378058b0_o.jpg.ffe4948f1154fa6cf039baf161af0382.jpg50237794453_235128a666_o.jpg.637a739574e28555a21a0776f363dc0a.jpg50238658202_33a6ed6f46_o.jpg.65d914b958f641e371ac3013bf737ca5.jpg50237760808_96480afc0f_o.jpg.f88816f4140a423bb83ba35e44d6b75d.jpg50238374446_0c6886ea76_o.jpg.46598bd85dcf1fb4e1f797eeb8fb9cc7.jpg50238376576_a43828d05e_o.jpg.3ad0c3870659cf56fff4c3984fbd9b2c.jpg50238522852_0cf9172c1f_o.jpg.0834119d858517d39625a478ea26d35b.jpg

 

Also my undertray decided to commit suicide on the way there, so it was cable ties and duct tape to the rescue. Its only the access panel that cover access to the upper fixings (its a different layout to the other 370z undertrays) so I will just remove it for now but will be looking for an aftermarket aluminium one as the plastic one is crap. 

 

Unfortunately Z-speed are the only manufacturers who do one for a mk1 Nismo and the price is extortionate. I heard rumours that Z1 have on in the pipeline as they already do one for the mk2 so i may hold out for that. Failing that i will have to CAD on up and get it laser cut myself.

 

https://www.z1motorsports.com/undershroud/speed-performance/speed-370z-performance-aluminum-undershroud-09-14-nismo-p-11891.html

 

 

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Worth developing your own od say pal 

Then get it avaible to buy :thumbs:

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350z-uk.com

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