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Rota GTR-D and Tyre Sizes


jamiebridge

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So i have decided on some rota gtr-d's:

 

10j front et12

12j rear et20

 

I am unsure what tyres to go for, one person i have seen is running:

 

245 35 18

275 35 18

 

I am wondering if i would get away with:

 

245 40 18

275 40 18

 

As i don't want the ride to be really crashy.

 

Also is it most likely that i will need to roll the arches with either tyre size? Front and rear or just rear?

 

Thanks

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I never have understood (though I understand some do it for tyre clearance when extremely low) why some people put lower profile tyres on the Z than the stock diameters (mine was also using undersize tyres when I bought it), I've also seen it on loads of other cars.

 

245/35/18 is under diameter, the car will be going slower than the speedo reads, increases torque a tiny bit and reduces (if restricted) top speed.

 

If you bear in mind that stock sizes are 225/45/18 and 245/45/18, you can use this simple calculator...

 

http://www.1010tires...Size-Calculator

 

...to check the overall diameter and circumference of what you are replacing with. For me, it's important to stay not only as close as possible to stock diameters, but also to maintain the 2 to 3% larger diameter of the rear tyre than the front (this keeps traction control systems happy, though it seems that some cars are more sensitive than others, for example, some people run a square setup without issue, others doing this get the traction control turning itself off all the time). To me, since its a fast rear wheel drive car, it seems to only make sense to keep the TCS happy.

 

Long story short, 245 and 275 35/18 are wrong. 255 and 275/40/18 are correct to be as close as possible to the original diameters. If you go 245/40/18 front and 275/40/18 rear, you will have a front to rear variance of over 3.5% which is a bit more than the TCS likes (though once again, you'd probably be ok unless yours is one of the exrtra sensitive ones). 255 on front would be a better choice if you care about staying as close to what Nissan intended as possible, and also retains the 20mm variance in tread width between front and rear.

 

P.S. You will most definitely need arch work and/or camber front and rear, regardless what tires you put on.

Edited by SuperStu
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Well, while it's here...

 

I never have understood why some people put lower profile tyres on the Z than the stock diameters (mine was also using this undersize tyres when I bought it), I've also seen it on loads of other cars.

 

245/35/18 is under diameter, the car will be going slower than the speedo reads, increases torque a tiny bit and reduces (if restricted) top speed.

 

If you bear in mind that stock sizes are 225/45/18 and 245/45/18, you can use this simple calculator...

 

http://www.1010tires...Size-Calculator

 

...to check the overall diameter and circumference of what you are replacing with. For me, it's important to stay not only as close as possible to stock sizes, but also to maintain the 2.7% larger diameter of the rear tyre than the front (this keeps traction control systems happy, though it seems that some cars are more sensitive than others, for example, some people run a square setup without issue, others doing this get the traction control turning itself off all the time). To me, since its a fast rear wheel drive car, it seems to only make sense to keep the TCS happy.

 

Long story short, 245 and 275 35/18 are wrong. 255 and 275/40/18 are correct to be as close as possible to the original diameters. If you go 245/40/18 front and 275/40/18 rear, you will have a front to rear variance of over 3.5% which is a bit more than the TCS likes (though once again, you'd probably be ok unless yours is one of the exrtra sensitive ones). 255 on front would be a better choice if you care about staying as close to what Nissan intended as possible, and also retains the 20mm variance in tread width between front and rear.

 

This is great info thanks. Its more the rubbing on arches that im worried about on the wider wheels with 40's. Theres next to no info online about the setup i am wanting. So i wanted some advice really. Whats the likeliness of 255 and 275/40/18 rubbing on both the front and rear? I guess i could get them all rolled.

 

Thanks

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This is great info thanks. Its more the rubbing on arches that im worried about on the wider wheels with 40's. Theres next to no info online about the setup i am wanting. So i wanted some advice really. Whats the likeliness of 255 and 275/40/18 rubbing on both the front and rear? I guess i could get them all rolled.

 

Thanks

 

I believe that you are going to need archwork AND camber no matter tyre you go with, but someone who has done it may want to disagree. The reason I think this is because I have my wheels spaced out to be almost flush (20mm front, 25mm rear), and your fronts will stick out 23mm more than mine, that will give them a nice poke, not too extreme, but hte rears... 32 mm wider than mine!?...it's going to look ridiculous if you don't add a lot of camber, regardless of tire size.

 

How low are you?

 

Basically, roll front and rear and add camber as needed. These wheels are wide but aren't super extreme, it won't be a nightmare to make them fit, just a bit of a pallava. ;)

Edited by Aashenfox
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I was going to suggest the same as Aashenfox - 255/40 fronts and 275/40 rears.

 

If you're not lowered, you'll be fine, if you are, you'll have to run maybe 3° camber to fit under the rear arch.

 

I am lowered on Tein springs 17mm front 14mm rear i believe.

 

This is great info thanks. Its more the rubbing on arches that im worried about on the wider wheels with 40's. Theres next to no info online about the setup i am wanting. So i wanted some advice really. Whats the likeliness of 255 and 275/40/18 rubbing on both the front and rear? I guess i could get them all rolled.

 

Thanks

 

I believe that you are going to need archwork AND camber no matter tyre you go with, but someone who has done it may want to disagree. The reason I think this is because I have my wheels spaced out to be almost flush (20mm front, 25mm rear), and your fronts will stick out 23mm more than mine, that will give them a nice poke, not too extreme, but hte rears... 32 mm wider than mine!?...it's going to look ridiculous if you don't add a lot of camber, regardless of tire size.

 

How low are you?

 

Basically, roll front and rear and add camber as needed. These wheels are wide but aren't super extreme, it won't be a nightmare to make them fit, just a bit of a pallava. ;)

 

If i am adding camber, do i need some camber arms ect, sorry for being clueless, first time with this kind of thing.

Edited by jamiebridge
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I'm not sure to be honest, still getting into mine, haven't had it long, think you might need them on rear? Someone else wanna chime in?

 

By the way, I'm really not sure how such wide wheels are gonna look with such a subtle drop. Are you prepared to go lower to make the wheels look right?

 

Anyone else agree, it's going to look a bit monster truckish on Tein springs with 2cm of poke?

Edited by Aashenfox
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I'm not sure to be honest, still getting into mine, haven't had it long, think you might need them on rear? Someone else wanna chime in?

 

By the way, I'm really not sure how such wide wheels are gonna look with such a subtle drop. Are you prepared to go lower to make the wheels look right?

 

Anyone else agree, it's going to look a bit monster truckish on Tein springs with 2cm of poke?

 

The idea was to get coilovers in due course, however without coilovers it may look better if i went for 10j all around? Would still be quite a nice dish all round, probably wouldn't need camber bits and arch rolling? May be a cheaper alternative and still achieve what i'm after, could just be a straight swap im guessing? Also the 10js are a tad cheaper.

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The width of the rim isn't as relevant as the width of the tyre, unless you intend to lay frame like the VAG boys. It's the tyre that will be making contact with the arch if things aren't set right, rather than the rim itself. You're rims will have 19mm more Poke than my old 10.5 et20 Rota Grids but at 12J and a 275 tyre, there's gonna be quite a lot of stretch, more than I would be happy to go with, but thats up to you. On Tein springs it my well fit fine, they are a middle of the road kind of drop, so it may not be enough of a drop to tuck under the arch, but be too low for the tyre not to buff.

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The width of the rim isn't as relevant as the width of the tyre, unless you intend to lay frame like the VAG boys. It's the tyre that will be making contact with the arch if things aren't set right, rather than the rim itself. You're rims will have 19mm more Poke than my old 10.5 et20 Rota Grids but at 12J and a 275 tyre, there's gonna be quite a lot of stretch, more than I would be happy to go with, but thats up to you. On Tein springs it my well fit fine, they are a middle of the road kind of drop, so it may not be enough of a drop to tuck under the arch, but be too low for the tyre not to buff.

 

On top of all that stretched tyres with a massive arch gap looks crap.

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