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New clutch slipping


OversteerPhoto

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Hello Everyone,

 

I joined the "Z crew" 9 months or so ago, bought a Grey 2003 DE GT with 88K on her. The clutch started slipping around 90K so I had this replaced with an exedy clutch from Euro Car Parts for around £250 plus £150 labor through a friend (professional garage - knows his stuff and has worked on 350s previously so I trust him).

 

I bedded it in, not going over 4.5k for 2000 miles and have since done 10K (car is now on 100K) and has started slipping in 5th and 6th around 5K RPM.

 

I have done some spirited driving up the brecon beacons but nothing a car like the Z shouldn't be able to handle so my question to the forum is:

 

Do you think I should contact Euro Car Parts and tell them the situation to try and claim a warranty replacement or should I suck it up, buy another clutch and get that fitted (whilst also changing the fly wheel to a single mass and changing the cylinders) ?

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Clutch should not be slipping that soon unless you have a twin turbo and are knocking out some mad power, should have changed the flywheel though always recommended when doing the clutch on the Zeds, However it is worth checking for oil leaks in case you are getting contamination and that is causing the slip, also check the slave cylinder is returning correctly (did you get the clutch fluid changed) and finally you may have simply glazed the plate, this happens when spirited driving and heat builds up in the clutch or if you "ride" the clutch while driving, if you have glazed the plate but not badly it will usually come back after 200-300 miles of normal (read town) driving other than that you will need the clutch plate out to inspect it for damage / premature wear before claiming, I have no idea where you would stand on that front as it would be warranted but is also a consumable - Ekona seems up on that sort of thing hopefully he will offer advice.

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Ah thank you sir :)

 

The trouble is, it's very easy to knacker a clutch within 10K by riding it or slipping it everywhere. Is it possible that your driving style contributes to this? No shame if it does, it might not even be something you notice. Realistically, it could well cost you the value of a new clutch + install to find out if the clutch is faulty, which I have to say is fairly unlikely. It's more likely that either you're slipping the clutch regularly OR the install wasn't done correctly. Unless you take it back to another garage you'll never know if it's the latter or not.

 

Could there be a claim for early failure? Yes, possibly, but practically that's going to be expensive and impossible to prove. I'd suck it up, then take it somewhere else to fit to try and eliminate poor fitting as the cause.

 

 

HOWEVER, before all that then definitely check the slave cylinder as Keyser says, that could very likely be the cause of your woes.

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Thank you both - It's possible my driving isn't perfect, this is my second car and I've had a licence for just under a year so I have a lot to learn.

 

No TT set up here - all stock apart from exhaust and intake.

 

A small oil leak is possible - she seems to drink oil, I'm going through 1L every 2K miles or so.

 

Could you advise me the easiest way to check the slave cylinder please? I believe the fluid was changed but I'll gladly take a look and see if it could be the cause.

 

If this isn't the case I'll get saving for all the parts I need, my rear tyres are on the limit and my front disks need replacing too - This is going to be an expensive month!

Edited by OversteerPhoto
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I hate to be 'that guy' but where are you getting up to 5000rpm in 5th gear?!?

 

also best way to test a clutch is to do motorway speeds in 5th gear then accelerate hard - that way you'll be putting maximum torque through the clutch - if the revs shoot up then the clutch is knackered.

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This is going to be an expensive month!

 

Welcome to Zed ownership :lol:

 

First thing to do is get underneath and check the joint between the gearbox and the engine - you are looking for signs of oil seepage - if the bearing seal has gone it will be running down and out at the bottom, can be hard to tell if the car has any other leaks as it tends to blow back along the bottom of the engine.

 

While up get a mate to press the clutch you will see the slave cylinder move the clutch "fork" when released the bar inside the rubber boot should be almost loose - you should be able to wiggle it with your fingers if it is still under a lot of pressure then it is not relasing far enough this will contribute to slip. Do the test a few times to be sure it releases every-time.

 

You don't really need the engine running as there is no assistance to the clutch from the engine - however the load will change slightly with the engine running BUT only try this if safe to do so i.e. you have a ramp don't try it on an axle stand please!!!

 

If your not sure I would advise getting a pro to have a look for you or maybe the guy that fitted it just to see if he can see anything obviously wrong.

 

Good Luck :thumbs:

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I hate to be 'that guy' but where are you getting up to 5000rpm in 5th gear?!?

 

Joining the dual carriage way as an example - last night I was joining and was around 60mph, upshifted to 5th gear and the revs shot up for a second before the clutch gripped again.

 

This is going to be an expensive month!

 

Welcome to Zed ownership :lol:

 

First thing to do is get underneath and check the joint between the gearbox and the engine - you are looking for signs of oil seepage - if the bearing seal has gone it will be running down and out at the bottom, can be hard to tell if the car has any other leaks as it tends to blow back along the bottom of the engine.

 

While up get a mate to press the clutch you will see the slave cylinder move the clutch "fork" when released the bar inside the rubber boot should be almost loose - you should be able to wiggle it with your fingers if it is still under a lot of pressure then it is not relasing far enough this will contribute to slip. Do the test a few times to be sure it releases every-time.

 

You don't really need the engine running as there is no assistance to the clutch from the engine - however the load will change slightly with the engine running BUT only try this if safe to do so i.e. you have a ramp don't try it on an axle stand please!!!

 

If your not sure I would advise getting a pro to have a look for you or maybe the guy that fitted it just to see if he can see anything obviously wrong.

 

Good Luck :thumbs:

 

I should have read up more about costs before buying such a nice car - a crappy fiesta would have been a much better option until I have a better job!

 

I will call my friend and see if I can pop down at some point to get this checked - thanks for the advice but I'm a photographer/IT guy and not very hands on with engines etc.

 

I was in the middle of writing something here, but the guys above me have said it in both very clear and simple ways.

 

Thanks anyway :)

 

 

I've read enough of the forums to know we all support zmanalex for clutches but looking on ebay (I know, don't kill me!) there's a LUK clutch and flywheel kit and the seller has really high ratings - is it that risky? Just trying to save myself a few quid

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ah oh, that sounds quite strange... i'm not normally aware of a clutch slipping, and then gripping... I do apologise if im teaching grandma to suck eggs, but, are you definitely fully engaging the clutch? the clutch is set quite high on a zed, which can cause problems when pulling away, for example. just wondering if you're back on the power before the clutch is fully engaged, it'll feel like it slips a bit.

 

as I say, best way to be sure is 5th gear at 70mph, clutch fully engaged (ie make sure you're not riding the clutch) and then floor the throttle. car will accelerate, but revs shouldn't spike at all.

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If it's genuine, then it'll be fine.

 

If.

 

Got a link?

 

Sure, hope mods don't mind me linking and hope Alex doesn't get offended:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUK-DUAL-MASS-FLYWHEEL-AND-CLUTCH-KIT-FOR-A-NISSAN-350Z-/371361305453?hash=item5676dbd36d:m:mQDiaqAYjeO_6ca48oH9kOw

 

 

ah oh, that sounds quite strange... i'm not normally aware of a clutch slipping, and then gripping... I do apologise if im teaching grandma to suck eggs, but, are you definitely fully engaging the clutch? the clutch is set quite high on a zed, which can cause problems when pulling away, for example. just wondering if you're back on the power before the clutch is fully engaged, it'll feel like it slips a bit.

 

as I say, best way to be sure is 5th gear at 70mph, clutch fully engaged (ie make sure you're not riding the clutch) and then floor the throttle. car will accelerate, but revs shouldn't spike at all.

 

She definitely grips then slips then grips again - I'm sure I'm driving properly and I've had a friend adjust the pedal so it's lower/higher.

 

Might be easier if I set the go pros up and do a little video showing what happens then send you guys a link.

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Shouldn't be slipping that early on,a friend recently had a nismo coppermix clutch fitted and was also slipping, turns out there was a spigot bush fitting for an auto box still attached that needed removed. Been fine since.

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Joining the dual carriage way as an example - last night I was joining and was around 60mph, upshifted to 5th gear and the revs shot up for a second before the clutch gripped again.

 

Are you sure this isnt just the TC kicking in?

 

I mean based on this comment alone, my theory you would have been over 3k maybe 3.5kRPM in 4th gear doing 60MPH, changed to 5th, dropped clutched, acclerated hard (maybe ground was a little wet or loose gravel who knows) TC kicks in for a second then gives it back.

 

I hope its not your clutch again though :(

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I won't be offended. :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

In fact glad that you posted up that link.

 

I won't flame you as you only have 7 posts, however search is your friend.

 

Avoid Techni-clutch and NCD as their 350Z stuff is fake.

 

These 2 companies have been discussed many times on this forum and many other forums over the years.

 

Just Google both companies to find out how BAD they really are.

 

PM received and replied to: :thumbs:

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  • 5 weeks later...

I have the same problem had a LUK clutch and dual mass flywheel fitted.Hasn't even been a year and it starting to slip.LUK want the clutch back so they can check if it's a defect as its still under warranty

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a quick update if anyone is interested.

 

Euro Car Parts have agreed to replace the clutch for free and I have picked up a stock DM flywheel from them too. I'm having this fitted next week, they will take my old clutch back and look into it.

 

I'm sort of happy with this outcome, ideally I wanted to upgrade my clutch but I can't complain with their customer service... for now.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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