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350z Headunit Replacement Guide (with links to parts)


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Hey all,

 

I wanted to fit a new stereo to the Z and browsed the forums and online for a proper guide, but wasn't happy with any of them. They all seemed to be either out of date, or hastily written so didn't cover enough details. Hopefully this guide should patch up those flaws.

 

It is written showing the install of a Pioneer SPH-DA120 AppRadio, but the basic principles apply for any stereo install.

 

The cables we will be using will maintain the use of the original steering wheel controls for the audio control, but NOT for the Bluetooth (as is the case with any aftermarket headunit upgrade). In my case, this stereo is an AppRadio with Apple CarPlay so it totally replaces the stock Bluetooth dongle system which i will be removing along the way (but not documented).

 

 

 

Tools/Materials Needed (your requirements may slightly differ)

 

Screwdrivers (Magnetic ones make this easier)

Trim Removal Tools

Soldering Iron

Heat shrink & Solder

Bullet Style Cable Connectors

 

 

 

Parts Required (prices correct at time of writing)

 

All parts below are purchased from InCarTec (https://incartec.co.uk/nissan/1929/1036/device/radio/Browser.aspx)

 

1 x Nissan 350z Bose Steering control interface - (29-674) £34.99

https://incartec.co.uk/Pages/Product.aspx?P=2975
 

 

Note, the next item is Pioneer specific, other models to suit other makes of head unit are available elsewhere on the site, they're listed on the product page of the previous item.

1 x PIONEER patch lead for 29 series SWC - (29-007) £3.99

https://incartec.co.uk/Pages/Product.aspx?P=3038
 

 

1 x Nissan 350Z Radio Facia Double Din - (50-256) £19.99

https://incartec.co.uk/Pages/Product.aspx?P=2793
 

 

 

 

Harness Identification

So, lets begin with the Steering Control Interface & ISO Connector lead.

 

MSQYhG.jpeg

 

The section shown in red is the lead allows connection between the cars factory head unit wiring and the stereo by converting it to a standard set of pins (for reference, cars wiring connects to the white sockets on the left, the standard ISO connector is the black plug on the right), this is then converted (by the lead included with your head unit) back to a custom connector to get the signals into the stereo itself. It also has a long black wire with an eyelet on it, this MUST be connected to a chassis ground in the car.

 

This particular model has the section shown in blue as well. This box of tricks allow connection to the steering wheel controls. The blue section has the white plug which connects to the cars connectors.

 

The section shown in green is just a jack plug that is the output of the steering wheel controls. This goes into the back of your head unit so it can receive the inputs/signals when you decide to use the volume or next track buttons on your wheel.

 

 

eUudm7.jpeg

 

The lead shown here is the head units wiring harness, this is included in the box of your new stereo. They are specific per model, so yours wont look the same, but should be similar.

 

The are four things here to highlight are as follows;

 

Long Green Wire - This is supposed to be wired to your handbrake switch. It disables certain functions unless you are parked up with the handbrake enabled. You can make your own choice, but I will be bypassing this "safety" feature.

 

Short Purple & White Striped Wire - This wire takes an input from your reversing light to switch the screen to a backup camera image (if you have one installed) when reverse is selected. Its obviously optional to use this, but I will be doing so. If you don't have a reverse camera, just leave this wire alone.

 

Red & Yellow Wires Connected with Bullet Connectors - One of these requires a constant 12v, the other requires a switched ignition feed. My advice is to simply leave these alone. If you find that your head unit stays on when you turn off the car, just swap these around so instead of going Yellow --> Yellow and Red --> Red, they go Yellow --> Red and Red --> Yellow. In my case, the standard setup was correct.

 

Blue & White Striped Wire on Bullet Connectors - This is used normally to connect to external amplifiers and it controls the power on them (like a digital on/off switch). In our case, the 350z has a power antenna, so we need to use this wire for that. It also controls the power to the factory fitted BOSE amplifier on the GT spec cars.

 

 

 

Connections (part 1)

OK, so lets grab hold of the head units harness, notice the double stacked connector like this, the top having less pins than the bottom?

 

PCHisq.jpeg

 

The top set is used for the head unit power, ground and various other inputs, the bottom half is for the speakers (normally).

 

Go ahead and grab the InCarTec loom, and find this black plug

 

aQJCn1.jpeg

 

Notice how the pin count matches the top section. Go ahead and click them together.

 

 

 

Harness Modifications

So, we now need to slightly alter the harness.

 

Step 1 - Connecting the on/off cable for the powered antenna

 

On your newly connected harnesses, you should now have two loose white & blue striped wires like the photo below. For reference, the InCarTec loom is the left, the Pioneer loom is on the right.

 

v1CBuw.jpeg

 

These need to be joined to allow the antenna to receive power when the head unit is turned on. Despite how it looks if you look at the loom, in standard configuration these aren't connected (I verified this using a multimeter set to continuity).

 

aYB6Jf.jpeg

 

As you can see, I simply crimped on a bullet connected and pushed them together. If you don't have one of these you can cut and solder them together.

 

Step 2 - Bypassing the parking brake detection on the head unit

Note: Manufacturers add this 'safety feature' for a reason. Its up to you whether you choose to bypass it. Im not sure of any legal or insurance related implications to doing this, so make up your own mind.

Bypass methods vary between manufactures and even models, so if you do carry this out, check that yours is as simple as this. Some models require relays to be connected instead of this method!

 

So, locate the grounding wire. On the InCarTec loom, it is black and has the little eyelet on it. You should be able to follow this back through the connection block and see it matches up to the black wire on the head unit loom.

 

bmEhsx.jpeg

 

Locate the green parking brake detection wire on the head unit loom. Cut this, and the black cable on the same loom to the same length and twist together as shown.

 

DBtULH.jpeg

 

Solder these connections together and seal with some heat shrink

 

yIY64e.jpeg

 

Lastly, I have never had to do this before, but it turns out that because the Z has a amplifier built into it, the adaptor cables that you buy mean you have to connect your speakers with the phono cables, rather than the usual set of + and - wires that speakers come with (which would normally connect to the lower half of the ISO plug adaptor shown earlier. The issue with this is that it means the speakers are only provided with 4v, rather than the usual 12v. You can correct this 'issue' by following busters harness modification linked below. I have now written a proper guide for this available below.

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/107583-how-to-busters-rca-headunit-volume-fix-guide/
 

 

I personally have done this mod, but as you can see from the guide above I hacked up another connector from another 350z ISO wiring loom so if i want to unplug this from the car im still able to do so as nothing is soldered in. Your call. If you dont do this mod, you will have lower sound levels, and remember to actually connect the phono leads! Busters original topic is below, my guide is above.

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/58947-reduced-sound-out-put-after-replacing-oe-bose/
 

 

Anyway, the wiring harness modifications are now complete. You should now have a single black plug to connect to your head unit. One white plug with only 3 or 4 pins in it to connect to the Zeds steering wheel controls and two white plugs with lots of pins to connect to the factory stereo wiring.

 

The last job to do is connect this bundle of wires to your stereo. This will vary per head unit, so I wont bother to describe it, but in my example, it was a single large black plug for all of the audio, power and control stuff, then a single 3.5mm jack for the steering wheel controls, plus another plug for the GPS antenna, some USB connectors and an AUX in. Connect this up following the head units instructions and then its onto the install.

 

 

 

Out With The Old

 

OK, so the first step here is to free the central part of the dash. This is held in by a total of 6 screws, with only two other things in the way.

 

First, remove the gear gaiter surround by pulling up on the silver ring as shown, then just twist this part and leave it dangling around the passenger foot well area. You may then want to put the car into 2nd, 4th, 6th or reverse as it gives you another inch or so of free space to work with.

wybMgH.jpeg

 

Next, you need to remove this white ribbon cable as shown in blue. To remove it, press the clip down firmly (shown in red) and pull away from the unit. Be careful with this as the ribbon cable can tear with relative ease.

 

ZcdRDJ.jpeg

 

Then, you need to remove these two gold coloured screws on the lower part of the dash, one is shown here in red, the other is just on the other side. Remove these and keep them safe

 

Y5nBog.jpeg

 

Next, we have four screws again on the lower part of the dash. The gold ones, here shown in red, hold the head unit mounting bracket to the car, the black ones here shown in blue hold the A/C control box (the big white thing) in place. This gets in the way of removal of the stereo, so you just need to remove these 4 screws and leave the A/C control unit dangling free for now.

 

xucc7y.jpeg

 

Next, open the cubby hole in the centre of the dash, pull the rubber mat upwards and you will now see 2 screws. These hold the plastic piece in place which acts as the locking mechanism for the cubby door, but they also hide a further 2 screws we need to remove. Therefore, remove the two screws (locations shown in red) and then lift out the plastic piece.

 

w6wpCe.jpeg

 

 

Now we can see the last of the two hidden screws, they should be gold in colour and are shown here in red. You will need a magnetic screwdriver to get these out, or you will more than likely drop them and loose them behind the dashboard!

 

NOTE: With your new unit, you MUST attach the ground wire. Using my multimeter I have found that the bracket that these two screws fix into is actually grounded. Therefore, on assembly of the wiring harness, I attached the eyelet from my ground wire to this screw, providing the head unit with a ground.

 

Zbab21.jpeg

 

The centre dash is now free from the car. Start to pull it out from the bottom to the top slowly and carefully. Once you get to the top, you will need to undo the white connector shown here in red. It has a VERY short lead so don't pull it, but to remove it, you need to press the little plastic lock which will be facing the windscreen. It works the same way as the heater control ribbon cable from earlier, its just a little tricky because you cant actually see the clip. Anyway, remove this and then carefully remove the entire of the centre dash.

 

tF6wZl.jpeg

 

Once freed, you can now see the rear of the BOSE head unit. Remove the three white plugs by pressing down the little clip (same as all the others) and pulling. The black antenna connector just pulls out of its socket (it fits a bit like a 12v car charger fits into its socket)

 

YHzWoI.jpeg

 

Now we need to free the old unit from the cars mounting brackets. You should now be able to remove the entire of this large centre dash out of the car which will make this easier. Anyway, remove the 4 screws shown here in red, do the same the other side and carefully remove the BOSE from the mounting brackets.

 

2FTkMD.jpeg

 

All old items should now be removed, so if were all ready, lets move on.

 

NOTE: The BOSE head unit is 'Married' to your car. Unless properly removed and de-registered (which isn't something you can do) it wont work in any other vehicle. Just a reminder in-case you were thinking of selling it.

 

 

 

In With The New

 

So now we can see our cables properly. The two red circled plugs send data for power & ground etc, and for the speakers, the third plug shown in blue is for steering wheel controls and the fourth black one shown in green is for antenna. You need to now connect these to your new wiring harness that we prepared earlier. The plugs all only fit 1 way, so don't be scared of this step. Also fit the antenna into the new head unit by simply pushing it into its slot.

 

NOTE: Remember to attach the ground wire at this stage! You can attach it anywhere you want, but as I mentioned, the screws that you removed that were hidden behind the cubby are actually attached to a grounded bracket, so id advise you use these.

 

TxajTy.jpeg

 

I didnt take any photos of this stage, but you must now remove the factory mounting brackets from the dash piece so we can fit our new facia adaptor. These are simply held in place by a single black screw on either side. Remove these and then lay down the facia adaptor into its hole.

 

et97uS.jpeg

 

NOTE: As-long as you've grounded the unit, now is a good time to turn the car on and test the head unit. Just ensure it powers on, sound can be heard out of the speakers, the steering wheel controls work and it powers down when you turn it off again.

 

If your head unit required any other connectors such as a GPS antenna, rear aux in, USB input or a reverse camera, attach these now as well.

 

You can now fix the brackets you just removed onto your new head unit. The unit SHOULD come with new screws, so please use these if it does. My unit had several holes drilled on the sides, each with a letter. The manual told you which holes to use for which manufacturer of car. Mine were all labelled 'N' for Nissan :). Fit the screws but don't tighten them all the way up for now.

 

908prz.jpeg

 

Again, no photos here, but you can now place the head unit with its new mounting brackets back into its location on the dash piece. You need to re-secure this with the two black screws you removed earlier.

 

Adjust the position of everything so it all fits square in its new home and fully tighten all 6 of the head unit screws and the two black bracket mounting screws.

 

 

 

Assembly Is The Reverse Of Disassembly

 

Yep, i hate that saying too, but it kinda is. To re-assemble you need to carefully put the centre dash piece back into the car. Your first task is to stuff the whole bunch of new wires into their home which is usually relatively difficult as space is tight.

 

Next, look at the bottom part of the dash and get the two metal 'legs' back in the right place behind the white heater control box, re-attach the two gold screws.

 

Now re-mount the heater control box in its home, and re-attach using the two black screws.

 

Screw in the screws hidden behind the cubby hole again using your magnetic screwdriver to hold them as you find the hole. (Remember the earth wire should be screwed in with one of these!)

 

Clip in the electrical connector for the three centre pod gauges.

 

Re-attach the two gold screws that are right at the bottom and towards the front of the centre dash piece.

 

Put the plastic latch mechanism back in the cubby hole and re-attach the two black screws. Remember to lay down the rubber mat back into here once done.

 

 

 

Completion

 

That's it, your job is now complete. Below are two pictures of my finished install.

49QD13.jpeg

 

 

QRuCiS.jpeg

 

Overall, its quite a simple job as-long as you have the right harness.

 

For me, total install time including wiring in all my extras was around 3 hours, and harness modification (as I also bypassed the phono cabled) was about 1.5 hours, obviously your mileage may vary.

 

Hope the guide is of help, and any questions please just ask :)

Edited by cs2000
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Note: We do already have a guide for this, but as mentioned above the parts are out of date. This is a Mk2 guide, previous left for reference.

-------------------------------------------------

 

Thanks to CS for putting this together, nice job :thumbs:

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Just fitted exactly the same head unit using the same method, with the exception of the handbrake cable which I just tucked away with no apparent problems.

 

Just an additional: if not already aware, the dimpled plastic centre console marks VERY easily.....as I found out 😕

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Just fitted exactly the same head unit using the same method, with the exception of the handbrake cable which I just tucked away with no apparent problems.

Strange. This is supposed to stop you playing with some of the menu settings, disable the playback of video files from the USB and stop you from typing address into the CarPlayu sat nav screen unless you're "parked up safely". Give these a test and see if you can do them.

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Just fitted exactly the same head unit using the same method, with the exception of the handbrake cable which I just tucked away with no apparent problems.

 

Just an additional: if not already aware, the dimpled plastic centre console marks VERY easily.....as I found out 😕

 

The handbrake cable is an 'earthed' wire (if I'm not mistaken) that is meant to be connected to the handbrake so that the video play ack will only work when the hanbrake is engaged. I bypassed this by connecting the cable to one of the screws on the headunit cage, enabling videoplayback without the handbrake up.

 

But the cable needs to be earthed to something for the video/dvd to play (I have a Pioneer Bt2500)

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Just fitted exactly the same head unit using the same method, with the exception of the handbrake cable which I just tucked away with no apparent problems.

 

Just an additional: if not already aware, the dimpled plastic centre console marks VERY easily.....as I found out ��

 

The handbrake cable is an 'earthed' wire (if I'm not mistaken) that is meant to be connected to the handbrake so that the video play ack will only work when the hanbrake is engaged. I bypassed this by connecting the cable to one of the screws on the headunit cage, enabling videoplayback without the handbrake up.

 

But the cable needs to be earthed to something for the video/dvd to play (I have a Pioneer Bt2500)

 

Correct, that's why I spliced mine into the ISO harness earth wire, but both approaches will work. Id think leaving it disconnected though wouldn't work...

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  • 2 months later...

This is a great guide thank you. It is even more important as the pictures have disappeared on the previous pinned guides. I'm doing my own install of a Pioneer AVIC-F980BT this weekend but into an 07 (facelift) roadster. I'll be fitting the GPS aerial too :)

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  • 10 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Great guide! 

 

I do have a question regards to bluetooth voice though - Is this separate to the bose head unit? Ideally I'd like to keep bluetooth and utilise existing microphone etc but unsure if that's possible if I swap out the head unit?

 

Also, are there any considerations to make for DAB radio?

 

I've not done any ICE for over a decade so a bit rusty to say the least :blush:

 

On 13/05/2017 at 21:08, sebZman said:

hell

 

I have make your assembly for my stereo, it works very well, but I have a humming when he has not of music

 

someone can help me?

 

thank you

 

Did you earth it?

Edited by Foo56
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  • 2 months later...
On 13/05/2017 at 21:08, sebZman said:

hello

 

I have make your assembly for my stereo, it works very well, but I have a humming when he has not of music

 

someone can help me?

 

thank you

Hi,

 

appreciate that this is an old post, but having just started installing this same head unit today I have exactly the same problem. My old HU also had the same issue, and I have worked it out that the HU is powering the Bose amp - this then creates the “hum” or white noise I think you are referring to.

 

I believe there are two solutions to this, both involving an additional switch. 

1- insert a switch on the blue/white cable between the HU and amp power connection. This stops the amp from powering on and effectively turns off the speakers.

2 - insert a switch on the red power connection in the harness. This would completely power down the HU when not in use. Disadvantage is that the whole unit is off, but advantage here is that you can reboot the HU if it crashes without switching ignition off/on again.

 

Personally I’m going for #1 above. If the HU crashes a lot then I may rethink the solution, or actually put both #1 and #2 in anyway. So long as the switches are mounted somewhere discrete I’ll be happy. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi, at the moment i am trying to fit in a different head unit. In the thread it says to connect the phono cables if you don't mod the harness. I'm not getting anything out from the speakers though when i plug the cables in. Is there a specific way they go to connect thr speakers? 

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1 hour ago, Elliot55 said:

Hi, at the moment i am trying to fit in a different head unit. In the thread it says to connect the phono cables if you don't mod the harness. I'm not getting anything out from the speakers though when i plug the cables in. Is there a specific way they go to connect thr speakers? 

Have you connected the blue remote switch wire to the hose amp harness?

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On 06/02/2018 at 17:30, EzeePzee said:

Have you connected the blue remote switch wire to the hose amp harness?

Yeah i found that was the problem. However the amp won‘t turn off with the ignition. My head unit harness doesn't have the blue remote one that the pioneer does. Is it right that i should splice the blue one i have to another cable on the harness that makes it turn off with the ignition? If so any links on how to do this? 

Cheers

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  • 1 month later...

Will be installing a new aftermarket Double DIN headunit (Probably a Sony), Thinking of getting the Nissan 350z Bose amplified adaptors with the steering wheel control adaptors. Is this a case of plug and play? My only concern is the mention of the 4v output to the Bose Amplifier. Does this mean the volume will be lower than the factory standard stereo without the modification? if this is not the case then am not too fussed, kinda confused as to what lead sets I should buy. Thanks in advance.

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  • 9 months later...

Just to add to this great guide, if anyone searches it like I did, there were a few differences for my JDM auto with sat nav.

 

The silver ring around the auto gear lever will pop off with a trim removal tool and the the heater control panel will lift out, although it's a tight fit, still being careful with the ribbon cable.

 

The screws in the centre cubby/sat nav area will be hidden by the sat nav control panel. This panel will lift of with the help of a trim removal tool and then there is white plastic lock connector to remove. 

 

After removing the short connector for the gauges at the top of the console there is another smaller white connector to remove on the left hand side. This will easier to remove once the right hand side one has been done.

 

Everything else is the same. Sorry I didn't think of pics at the time but hopefully it is self explanatory.

 

HTH

 

 

 

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