mbs Posted January 16, 2008 Author Share Posted January 16, 2008 Thanks everyone, just got out the barclaycard for the purchases. Will be waiting for a fine day to get started, whenever that comes, and will post pics of before and after, hopefully you will be able to tell the difference. Think you may now have an insight into how seriously this is taken. Oh for the old days of the car wash yes. Just hope after 40 years of car wash etc I can come up with the goods Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ir_fuel Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 I neglected my previous car, as in, washed it 2 times a year, by running it through a car wash. When selling it the new buyer had the car detailed by that friend of mine ( http://www.wax-it.be/gallery/albums/Wax ... .sized.jpg ) and my god, what a difference (and it also showed the damage to the lacquer on the bonnet which couldnt be fixed unless he would spend an entire day only on that part of the car ). So I decided that this time I would do things right from the beginning, and now it is just annoying me when my car is not clean (like right now .... ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarnie Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 And never clay without waxing afterwards And use the right finishing products after the wax, for that extra shine @H5: i mean the stuff you find at your regular car-accessories-store like Turtle-Wax and the likes Wash - clay - polish - sealant - wax - glaze. I only Wash - clay - wax I use megs shampoo and clay and P21S wax. What polish, sealant and glaze should I use? My routine already takes 3 hours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 And never clay without waxing afterwards And use the right finishing products after the wax, for that extra shine @H5: i mean the stuff you find at your regular car-accessories-store like Turtle-Wax and the likes Wash - clay - polish - sealant - wax - glaze. I only Wash - clay - wax I use megs shampoo and clay and P21S wax. What polish, sealant and glaze should I use? My routine already takes 3 hours The science goes..... With clay, you 'pull' the bits of dirt etc. out of the paint that get stuck in the lacquer and top coat. This leaves little gaps that effectively need filling. The effect of the clay is to effectively make sure that anything stuck on the paint is removed. Polish should then help fill these holes and flatten the surface a bit. Depending how bad any damage is, then this can be done to a certain degree by hand. To repair damage etc. machine polishers come in as they can move quicker and you can apply more pressure. This is where paint depth guages come in, and it all goes painfully expensive!! Basically, use a polish after the clay, to bring back the luster of the paint. After claying and polishing, you have effectively used two quite abrasive substances on the paint. Any 'protection' will have been removed or at least reduced. A sealant then puts a hard wearing protective coat on, that makes future washing and maintenance a whole load easier IMO too. These three steps need only doing every 3-6 months really. Certainly clay more like 6 months really. Hand polish every 3 months if you wanted. A good sealant should last a winter or 6 months. Sealants don't always have the best finish. So adding the wax puts the wet look or deep shine or colourful finish on. Some will say there is no difference, some say there is a huge difference between products. Just try different ones and see what you think. Glaze is almost a temporary thing and the sort of thing that is added for shows to get a real shine and wet look. It doesn't last long at all but can really add to the wax. Product ideas - Clay - Megs Quik clay (make sure you use plenty of the lubricant) Polish - AG SRP, Menzerna, Megs #81 (and a whole different range for machine polishers!) Sealant - AG EGP, CG Jetseal 109 Wax - P21S, Dodo juice, Colinite. Glaze - Megs or Chemical Guys do some good stuff. There is also Zaino and Zymol products that I have seen used, but not used myself. Some people swear by it, some struggle to see the difference for the price. One final point, think about what car wash you use and how much in a bucket of water. The wash I use needs one cap full to a 5l bucket. Put 3 cap fulls in, it is strong enough to strip the wax. It is that subtle!! Sorry for gabbling, hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinmac Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Nice one bud. Good enough post to have come from Sinbad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 I've got a spreadsheet for those using Meguiars / Chemical Guys washes for correct product / water ratios. Am being told I have reached my upload limit of 2mb but it is only 140kb - help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarnie Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 And never clay without waxing afterwards And use the right finishing products after the wax, for that extra shine @H5: i mean the stuff you find at your regular car-accessories-store like Turtle-Wax and the likes Wash - clay - polish - sealant - wax - glaze. I only Wash - clay - wax I use megs shampoo and clay and P21S wax. What polish, sealant and glaze should I use? My routine already takes 3 hours The science goes..... With clay, you 'pull' the bits of dirt etc. out of the paint that get stuck in the lacquer and top coat. This leaves little gaps that effectively need filling. The effect of the clay is to effectively make sure that anything stuck on the paint is removed. Polish should then help fill these holes and flatten the surface a bit. Depending how bad any damage is, then this can be done to a certain degree by hand. To repair damage etc. machine polishers come in as they can move quicker and you can apply more pressure. This is where paint depth guages come in, and it all goes painfully expensive!! Basically, use a polish after the clay, to bring back the luster of the paint. After claying and polishing, you have effectively used two quite abrasive substances on the paint. Any 'protection' will have been removed or at least reduced. A sealant then puts a hard wearing protective coat on, that makes future washing and maintenance a whole load easier IMO too. These three steps need only doing every 3-6 months really. Certainly clay more like 6 months really. Hand polish every 3 months if you wanted. A good sealant should last a winter or 6 months. Sealants don't always have the best finish. So adding the wax puts the wet look or deep shine or colourful finish on. Some will say there is no difference, some say there is a huge difference between products. Just try different ones and see what you think. Glaze is almost a temporary thing and the sort of thing that is added for shows to get a real shine and wet look. It doesn't last long at all but can really add to the wax. Product ideas - Clay - Megs Quik clay (make sure you use plenty of the lubricant) Polish - AG SRP, Menzerna, Megs #81 (and a whole different range for machine polishers!) Sealant - AG EGP, CG Jetseal 109 Wax - P21S, Dodo juice, Colinite. Glaze - Megs or Chemical Guys do some good stuff. There is also Zaino and Zymol products that I have seen used, but not used myself. Some people swear by it, some struggle to see the difference for the price. One final point, think about what car wash you use and how much in a bucket of water. The wash I use needs one cap full to a 5l bucket. Put 3 cap fulls in, it is strong enough to strip the wax. It is that subtle!! Sorry for gabbling, hope this helps. Nice one mate, really appreciate that So if you should only polish every 3 months what would happen if you do it every time? Would it add or detract to the look? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 If you polish every time, as a minimum you are stripping back any protective wax / sealant that you have put on the car, as it will cut through it. So as such you are wasting your time. If you go for it then you can go through to the top coat and wear it down. By hand you won't do a huge amount of damage unless you are using an abrasive polish and doing it every week applying a lot of pressure. But there is no need. It is topping the wax up regularly that will add to the shine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M13KYF Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 I've got a spreadsheet for those using Meguiars / Chemical Guys washes for correct product / water ratios. Am being told I have reached my upload limit of 2mb but it is only 140kb - help? it will be other stuff you have uploaded in the past. May be pictures. If yo go to your profile from within a post you've posted you can see what you have uploaded and delete there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_b Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Chaps would like to make the most of my car but need a head start and therefore would like to know of a good detailer in Oxfordshire/Reading area. Not looking to spend £500 but do know it would be relatively expensive. PS this is on a silver 5 series touring that is 6 months old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 I've got a spreadsheet for those using Meguiars / Chemical Guys washes for correct product / water ratios. Am being told I have reached my upload limit of 2mb but it is only 140kb - help? it will be other stuff you have uploaded in the past. May be pictures. If yo go to your profile from within a post you've posted you can see what you have uploaded and delete there. Use this guide so you don't over / under do the amount of product mixed with water! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Chaps would like to make the most of my car but need a head start and therefore would like to know of a good detailer in Oxfordshire/Reading area. Not looking to spend £500 but do know it would be relatively expensive. PS this is on a silver 5 series touring that is 6 months old. Take a quick look on Detailing World for a guy with username Reg Hollis. J12, M4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_b Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 Anyone on here use SwissVax BoS on a blade (closest colour to the 5). Will be getting it done with this and just like to know if its good as seems that everyone on detailing world think so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 And never clay without waxing afterwards And use the right finishing products after the wax, for that extra shine @H5: i mean the stuff you find at your regular car-accessories-store like Turtle-Wax and the likes I know bud. Before you wax, after claying you should polish and put sealant on. Claying pulls deposits out of the paintwork and the 'gaps' need protecting ie sealing up again. The only thing to add after wax is a glaze, which would last for just a few hours in reality! But looks when it goes on. Wash - clay - polish - sealant - wax - glaze. Sorry to bump an old thread, but I was about to order Megs glaze as recommended here, and I noticed that in one of the websites it suggested that this product should be applied before waxing, not after it. As I have several layers of P21S already on, I wonder if this glaze product will be of any benefit at all if I apply it now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 And never clay without waxing afterwards And use the right finishing products after the wax, for that extra shine @H5: i mean the stuff you find at your regular car-accessories-store like Turtle-Wax and the likes I know bud. Before you wax, after claying you should polish and put sealant on. Claying pulls deposits out of the paintwork and the 'gaps' need protecting ie sealing up again. The only thing to add after wax is a glaze, which would last for just a few hours in reality! But looks when it goes on. Wash - clay - polish - sealant - wax - glaze. Sorry to bump an old thread, but I was about to order Megs glaze as recommended here, and I noticed that in one of the websites it suggested that this product should be applied before waxing, not after it. As I have several layers of P21S already on, I wonder if this glaze product will be of any benefit at all if I apply it now. Depends on the product and what it actually does. Glaze is a bit of a generic term. If it is something that hardens for wax to go on top off, then it can go under it. If not, it goes on top. Ask the supplier, but I was on the understanding Megs glaze went on last. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 I've tried lots of different polishs and waxes on my gm and without a doubt the best has been clearkote vanilla moose wax hand glaze, despite the title its a polish and its easy on easy off, zaino z2 and z5 are good but for value clearkote is better imo SNOWFOAM With one coat of clearkote also it pays to buy a good shampoo like poorboys super slick and suds or chemical guys, these will not remove the polish gm is not the rewarding colour to polish i will admit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinbad Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 i want snowfoam!! what do i need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 karcher or similar and an ab lance or a gilmour (not as good though) http://www.autobritedirect.co.uk/shop/p ... 15a3f28f69 you can find similar on ebay aswell and some snowfoam or super snowfoam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Or CG Maxi Suds II Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 auto express test polishes in next weeks or the week afters issue, but they dont really test the top players imo but they certainly like collinite iirc ( read it last night so its abit hazy now ) they are testing for longevity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted March 18, 2008 Share Posted March 18, 2008 http://350zmotoring.com/forums/detailin ... crets.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim Posted April 4, 2008 Share Posted April 4, 2008 And never clay without waxing afterwards And use the right finishing products after the wax, for that extra shine @H5: i mean the stuff you find at your regular car-accessories-store like Turtle-Wax and the likes I know bud. Before you wax, after claying you should polish and put sealant on. Claying pulls deposits out of the paintwork and the 'gaps' need protecting ie sealing up again. The only thing to add after wax is a glaze, which would last for just a few hours in reality! But looks when it goes on. Wash - clay - polish - sealant - wax - glaze. Sorry to bump an old thread, but I was about to order Megs glaze as recommended here, and I noticed that in one of the websites it suggested that this product should be applied before waxing, not after it. As I have several layers of P21S already on, I wonder if this glaze product will be of any benefit at all if I apply it now. Depends on the product and what it actually does. Glaze is a bit of a generic term. If it is something that hardens for wax to go on top off, then it can go under it. If not, it goes on top. Ask the supplier, but I was on the understanding Megs glaze went on last. Just bought a bottle of Megs glaze and it says on the label that it is a polish and that you should apply a good wax after it. Not at all sure what to do now, since I have lots of P21S already on the car and don't want to strip it off by using this stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 And never clay without waxing afterwards And use the right finishing products after the wax, for that extra shine @H5: i mean the stuff you find at your regular car-accessories-store like Turtle-Wax and the likes I know bud. Before you wax, after claying you should polish and put sealant on. Claying pulls deposits out of the paintwork and the 'gaps' need protecting ie sealing up again. The only thing to add after wax is a glaze, which would last for just a few hours in reality! But looks when it goes on. Wash - clay - polish - sealant - wax - glaze. Sorry to bump an old thread, but I was about to order Megs glaze as recommended here, and I noticed that in one of the websites it suggested that this product should be applied before waxing, not after it. As I have several layers of P21S already on, I wonder if this glaze product will be of any benefit at all if I apply it now. Depends on the product and what it actually does. Glaze is a bit of a generic term. If it is something that hardens for wax to go on top off, then it can go under it. If not, it goes on top. Ask the supplier, but I was on the understanding Megs glaze went on last. Just bought a bottle of Megs glaze and it says on the label that it is a polish and that you should apply a good wax after it. Not at all sure what to do now, since I have lots of P21S already on the car and don't want to strip it off by using this stuff. What is the product actually called? IIRC Megs do one called something like Final Finish Mirror Glaze.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 My mistake, that is a Chemical Guys one, sorry. It looks like the Megs one is used before wax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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