SteveW

I really like that diffuser, just don't know wheather it would fit with a K1, might have to be a guinea pig, lol.

Thank you very much, I'll pass it on. Cheers

Why not use 1 of these? (About £4.74 from amazon) Alternatively, if you want the cable hidden somewhere, you could get a car charger for the phone/ipod, strip the 12V -> 5V electronics from inside the cigarette plug bit and splice that on to your 12V source.... or just splice another lighter socket to your 12v source, fix it somewhere hidden (under armrest cubby?) and plug the car charger straight in to that. Hi Haydn, Thanks very much mate, never seen those before. I've only ever seen the other ones that stick out miles. I'll get one of those for now and maybe strip it out in the future. Thanks again Steve

Hi mate, I've done a few sets with rattle cans in the past and never had a problem. I did have one set powder coated before and, personally, I didn't like the look of it. It could have been the company I used before (now gone bust) or the fact I had them done in white. The powder coat discoloured quickly, about 10 months and went a strange yellowy colour. I thought the coating looked 'rough' as well. I do appreciate the offer of help though, please can you let me know the place where because a mate is wanting his powder coating in an odd blue colour that he had his bike powder coated in. Thank you Steve

per wheel I hope! I've just signed up to a 300 squid job to do ours! I'm going to be doing it all myself so its just the cost of the abrasives, filler and paint for me. Its the labour thats the expensive bit hence why I'm going DIY. Also on with aother project to paint the cubby, stereo and platsic gear lever surround in metallic black and Lambo orange, see how it looks when its done..... Cheers Steve

Hi mate, Thats going to be just to charge the thing so the plan will be to splice into a 12V supply (unless I can find a %v supply already in the car) and use a (insert clever electronics box here) to drop the voltage to 5V such that I can hardwire the usb cable to charge the phone so it can live in the car at all times and just be removed to change music. Thats the plan anyway...... Cheers Steve

Job list before next year: Refurb Wheels - £60 Is that total or per wheel? New stereo, (mine is driving me absolutely mad, it will no longer play CD's so I'm stuck with the radio) £300 You could try and do the tape deck hack and add iPod connection, got nothing to lose right? viewtopic.php?p=507429#p507429 Or use a casette adapter... viewtopic.php?f=27&t=33010 Hi mate, £60 is for the whole set because I'm doing it all myself it probably won't cost that much but always best to over budget and suprise yourself. I've already done the tape deck hack but it doesn't work with 3G iPhones so need to buy an mp3 player. I tried the tape deck adaptor but the sound quality was awful. A mates giving me his old phone with mp3 player so going to hard wire a USB port into the car so it can charge. So maybe I can knock the new stereo on the head :0) Thank you Steve

cheers Darren....i used a hairdry to bake it. Good shout, I was about to ask how on earth you got a Rays in the oven, can't even get a 16 inch pizza in my oven has to be cut down to a 14" lol I like the look of that technique the best I think, just can imaging masking the lip is a bit of a ball ache but at least on the rays there is an edge you can push the tape up against. Cheers

1) SteveW, pending funds at time of GB happening. 2) 3) 4) 5) Thanks

+1 Thank you very much! I best get saving then for those, got so much stuff I want to do to the car before next years track day season starts wish I wasn't trying to save a deposit for a house would have so much more free cash! Job list before next year: Refurb Wheels - £60 Rear spats - £230 Rear Diffuser - £300 Side skirts -£300 New stereo, (mine is driving me absolutely mad, it will no longer play CD's so I'm stuck with the radio) £300 Cusco ARBs Second set of wheels and slick tyres £500 Plenum spacer £200 Remap £400 Once again thank you for all the advice. Steve

Thanks folks, never heard of those coloured alloy wheel rim protectors before. I'll drop Husky a PM and get his opinion. I think its probably best to stay away from the paint and go for rim tape or the wheel protectors because like Mr Biscuit says its reversible if I change my mind Thanks again, Steve p.s. may now be going for black rims after seeing a black zed with black time attack rims.

Hi chilli I've had a look and it is possibly me being blind, but I couldn't see the replicas. I could see the Nismo V1's and the Shine 2's but no replicas or are the shines the replicas? If so they are sadly out of my price range. I know you get what you pay for at the end of the day so I'll have to wait & get saving! Cheers Steve

Hey folks my wheels are badly in need of a refurb and the plan is to go gunmetal grey with a coloured lip (not on my face tho ) The options as I see it are rim tape or paint. I'm thinking painting them would be best bet for life but a nightmare to get right without a perfectly round template. Are there any other options? I will be doing all the work myself. If rim tape is best what is the best way to apply? I've looked but can't find any instructions on the Internet or on any of the shops that sell it. Thank you very much Steve

Thanks chaps I'll steer well clear, thank you Always best to ask! The search continues Thankls again

I'm after a pair of spats and diffuser for the back bumper to make the back end look a bit better. Has anyone bought any parts from UV Worldwide before and if so what was the fit and quality like? I like the look of: http://www.uvworldwide.co.uk/nissan-350 ... -1640.html and http://www.uvworldwide.co.uk/bodystylin ... -3035.html and eventually http://www.uvworldwide.co.uk/bodystylin ... -1638.html Whilst I would prefer Nismo parts for fit and quality the bank balance simply won't stretch that far Thank you Steve

Oh yes one other thing don't forget to mark the postions of the camber bolts on the rear before loosening them so you can get the alignment something like in the right position when you put it all back together.

Getting the damper rod top nuts off is a PITA unless you have an airgun, you need a swan necked spanner and a pair of big grips to hold the damper rod still. Its pretty easy on the whole though to be honest just wangling of the shock around to get it out of the arch is a pain. Good luck.

Car is now fixed, fingers crossed it stays that way. Was quite an easy job really, think it was just the pressing of the bearing that was concerning me. It turns out reassembly of the suspension components was the hardest part. Thanks to ZMANALEX for all the help and the parts. Cheers Steve

Old bits are now separated , only took 4500Kg..... Hard part is going to be find a suitable drift or piece of metal to put the new bearing on. See what can be found around the place today.

Hub, bearing and wheel carrier all removed intact, only took 90 mins. Just need to press apart and then press the new one on. Fingers crossed it will be easy

My wheel bearing has gone and I am think of doing the majority of it myself just find a garage to put the new bearing on, or use the press at work. However, I've just been reading the service manual and point 8 has me a little confused. In the service manual the axle is referred to as the large cast item that all the suspension links etc mount to and the driveshaft passes through before going into the wheel hub. (I woul dcall this the hub carrier??) Anyway point 8 - REMOVAL 1. Remove tire with power tool. 2. Remove cotter pin. Then remove lock nut from drive shaft. 3. Remove brake caliper with power tool. Hang it in a place where it will not interfere with work. Refer to BR- 38, "REAR DISC BRAKE (AD14VE TYPE)" , BR-44, "REAR DISC BRAKE (OPB13VB TYPE)" . CAUTION: Avoid depressing brake pedal while brake caliper is removed. 4. Remove disc rotor and remove parking cable and parking brake shoe from back plate. Refer to PB-4, "PARKING BRAKE CONTROL" , PB-5, "PARKING BRAKE SHOE" . 5. Remove fixing bolts and nuts in axle side of radius rod, front lower link with power tool. 6. Remove fixing bolt and nut in axle side of rear lower link with power tool. Then remove coil spring. Refer to RSU-15, "REAR LOWER LINK & COIL SPRING" . 7. Remove fixing bolt and nut in axle side of shock absorber with power tool. 8. Using a puller (suitable tool), remove axle from drive shaft. So my question is a puller needed? If so what type of puller should I get, I really have no idea. I'm pretty handy and I'm sure I could work it out when all dismantled I just want to try and get everything sorted before I start. I would have thought the drive shaft would be free and loose or is there a sleeve around the end of the drive shaft that is a tight fit into the axle/hub carrier? As such is it a hub puller i require? Thank you Steve

Hi mate, yes it was a cracking day, best part for me was a massive tank slapper that I managed to keep on track. Passenger was very impressed considering he had been looking out of his window in the direction we were supposed to be going. Lol. I was with Javelin Trackdays. Cheers Steve

Yes sorry mate, I realised it was the hub and the bearing after I wrote the response. It doesn't make sense why Nissan would quote for a new carrier as well??? I could understand a new axle because sometimes the axle is too worn. Really considering having a go myself. Just need a hub puller to get the axle off and a ball joint separator to get the hub carrier off. We've got some presses at work I can use just a question of having the right drift to put the new bearing on. Cheers Steve The bearing/hub runs on the hub carrier or sometimes referred to as a sleeve. There is no axle as such on the 350Z. This should be the only issue that you have as the inner part of the bearing is a tight fit on the "sleeve" and you will not know if this is worn/damaged untill you get the bearing off. Bearings/hubs in stock and good to go same/next day. Alex. Sorry Alex, think it was a confusion over terminology for various parts, when I say the axle I meant the wheel hub (the part with the wheel studs pressed into it, I think you referred to this as the sleeve?). Hub carrier I assume you mean the part the hub and bearing sub assembly bolts to (links the top and bottom arms of the suspension together called axle in the Nissan Service mnaual (item 4)) LOL Very confusing. I will drop you a PM should I need a bearing/hub assembly when I've made my mind up if I'm gonna have a go myself. Thank you very much. Steve Steve

Yes sorry mate, I realised it was the hub and the bearing after I wrote the response. It doesn't make sense why Nissan would quote for a new carrier as well??? I could understand a new axle because sometimes the axle is too worn. Really considering having a go myself. Just need a hub puller to get the axle off and a ball joint separator to get the hub carrier off. We've got some presses at work I can use just a question of having the right drift to put the new bearing on. Cheers Steve

Thanks mate, I do too I need the car for work it is also my daily driver and living in the sticks ten miles from work I have two options until it is fixed: 1) Push bike (which is fine praying for a dry week) 2) Walk an hour to get a bus.... lol The hairpin is class. To be honest I think Gerrards at Mallory Park did all the damage, it then got worse at Cadwell and today it said I've had enough! Cheers