SteveW

The stretch on the rears looks awesome I need some 19's after I get my amuse kit on......need my bonus for the kit fitting first though

Ooooo massage room

Ha ha that gave me a bit of a chuckle! Glad you got em sorted in the end. Yes I have indeed removed the standard airbox

Renault F1 engine. Renault have been making very good petrol engines for years, it's just the rest of the cars that let them down.

Yes I Have an aftermarket exhaust but it's been on for about 2 years with no issues. It's also been UpReved at RS tuning. Since resetting the fault it hasn't yet come back and I did quite a few miles yesterday.

Lexx and Stew thank you I pulled the code this morning: 147 -O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 3) As such I have reset the code and will see if it comes back. I'm just hoping it was a temporary problem to do with the cold. Thanks again,

Cheers Lexx Please can someone sticky this or The original topic with Stu's link? Will make finding the CEL procedure much easier and hopefully avoid this question being asked again. I'm sure it will come up. Thanks Steve

Thanks Lexx, I only feel half ashamed now then..... I didn't see that Do'h!!

Thank you, I must have missed those in my search are they stickies? If so I'm very ashamed

Hi folks, I've got a CEL light can someone confirm the procedure for reading the codes? Am I right in thinking this is it: Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON†wait 3 seconds. Repeat the following two procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds: Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD). Fully release the accelerator pedal. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. Then it's a matter of counting the flashes and getting the code? I've searched everywhere but struggling to find the right procedure. Mind you I'm only on the phone using tapa talk and google. Thank you Steve

I suppose it depends on the spanner design as my standard angled ones wouldn't go in so had to buy the larger offset ones but it's always any excuse to buy tools I do seem to have a recollection of when I did mine there is quite a lot of preload on the suspension members at the front and it took two of us to get the struts out and back in. One standing on the arm and one moving the strut maybe we missed loosening something tho.... Oh yeah also on the rears mark the positions of the camber bolts in case you have to loosen these to get the bottom arm low enough I had to couldn't get the springs out without. Good luck

Changing the springs is pretty easy Chris. I reckon the hardest bit is manoeuvring the struts out or maybe getting the damper rod nuts undone, you really need offset / swan neck spanners to hold the rod whilst you undo the nut not the bodge method I used lol.

That's comical how bad that exhaust sits!!! Lol. Glad mine is one of the original ESR/Japspeed K1's it fits perfectly.

Mate not mare, stupid bloody phone!

No worries mare

Yeah mate that was what I was thinking. Clamp it temporarily until I'm happy with the volume then have it tigged on. However last night a bloke stopped me in the petrol station to say my car sounded amazing, probably one of the best cars he's ever heard. I do love the K1 for that. Had comments at track days saying I've had the best sounding car there etc. Further to my previous response another email from Jetex: Hi Steve, All our silencers have a slotted end so allows clamping. The slots can also be cut off of course, if a nicer tig weld is required. Regards, Neil Jetex

Thank you for the links Biscuit. I might give one of these a go before getting something welded in place so I can always add, change, replace etc http://exhaustpartsuk.com/index.php?mai ... ts_id=1076 Cheers

Hi mate, See below for response from Jetex, sadly not provided any Db reduction figures so will be a case of giving it a go. I'd just be happy if I could get rid of the bungs and get the Db down to what it is now. If I get any more from them other than below I'll let you know Hi Steve, Generally, the larger the silencer volume, the greater the reduction in sound. How much room do you have under the car to allow silencers to be fitted? These are the only 3 options that are straight 1 in 1 out that would realistically fit under the car. U307600R Oval silencer box [TURBOTIGHT] [3 inch] [stainless steel] - H=140 / W=220mm / L=250mm £99.32 U337600R Oval silencer box [TURBOLIGHT] [3 inch] [stainless steel] - H=140mm / W=220mm / L=420mm £94.27 U447600R Round silencer box [TURBEX] [3 inch] [stainless steel] - Dia=125mm / L=625mm £111.20

Wish I had a spare £500!!! Would pull your arm off!

WOW!!! Thats an amazing difference

WOW!!! Thats an amazing difference

Not long really I reckon about 45 mins per side as a maximum think it took me less than an hour.

Not long really I reckon about 45 mins per side as a maximum think it took me less than an hour.

Jetex got back to me asking about current silencer type and volume (I.e. how much gas they can hold) that are fitted to the K1. I've sent the details over so hopefully they'll get back to me with a recommendation to get it to 88Db without bungs

Jetex got back to me asking about current silencer type and volume (I.e. how much gas they can hold) that are fitted to the K1. I've sent the details over so hopefully they'll get back to me with a recommendation to get it to 88Db without bungs