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ZMANALEX

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Everything posted by ZMANALEX

  1. Simple enough job. http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/VQ_SPRING_REMOVER_INST.pdf
  2. Price will depend on condition.
  3. Best to get clarity from the garage. The headlight levelling system on the rear of the car is a common failure and is visible when carrying out the MOT I have never come across a failed "motor" inside a Xenon headlight, and anyway, how would the garage know if the motor in the headlamp was faulty?
  4. They mean that the front headlamp levelling device is situated at the rear of the car. It is located on the end of the rear anti-roll bar on the NSR.
  5. There are 2 front sub frames so you will have to identify which one. There is the engine cross member that Keith D has mentioned and there is this one below: The engine cross member can be a mare if the bolts are rusted and seized. The one below is an hour's work on a ramp.
  6. Get a second opinion from an indy 350Z specialist as the rear sub frame on the 350 is aluminium so can not rust.
  7. So what gauge do you prefer to believe? Nissan installed the sensor in the rear cross over pipe for a reason. In situations where I have over or under temperature issues, I simply use an infrared temp. thermal gun to identify the cold and hot spots. Great for also keeping check of your tyre temps when on track, so multi use. Available from £25.00 up.
  8. So you still have the stock gauge fitted and hooked up to the oem sender at the rear of the engine which is showing the correct temps?
  9. Definitely a case of air in the system, if the stat checks out okay, but easy to bleed following the correct procedure. I can send your garage a link if that would help them. Looks like you have the temp sender unit installed into the top hose and I assume an aftermarket gauge is fitted in the cab? Might be a plan to hook it back up to the OEM sender unit at the rear of the engine to see what change occurs as the top hose temps are different from the OEM position at the rear of the engine.
  10. Have a read here, very simple: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=350z+CLUTCH+PEDAL+SWITCH+by+pass&sca_esv=e9ea40622f6d2cac&sca_upv=1&biw=1260&bih=663&tbm=vid&sxsrf=ADLYWII58GRb_9Ib8ARs141Oav5O-AvvGg%3A1726655380801&ei=lKvqZqfMMKidhbIP3cSL-Qg&ved=0ahUKEwin5vzEpMyIAxWoTkEAHV3iIo8Q4dUDCA0&oq=350z+CLUTCH+PEDAL+SWITCH+by+pass&gs_lp=Eg1nd3Mtd2l6LXZpZGVvIiAzNTB6IENMVVRDSCBQRURBTCBTV0lUQ0ggYnkgcGFzc0jTQVDRBliHM3AAeACQAQCYAdYBoAHqEaoBBjIuMTUuMbgBDMgBAPgBAZgCD6AC6g_CAgQQIxgnwgIIEAAYgAQYogTCAggQABiiBBiJBcICBhAAGBYYHsICCxAAGIAEGIYDGIoFwgIFECEYoAHCAgQQIRgVwgIFECEYnwXCAgcQIRigARgKmAMAiAYBkgcGMS4xMy4xoAeKTA&sclient=gws-wiz-video
  11. Could possibly be the clutch pedal switch. Piggy back the wiring/terminals and try again.
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