ZMANALEX

This is the rounded contour type which I have in stock:

Yes, the OEM genuine Nissan sensors that I have in stock will fit all 350Z HR models.

There is also a MAP sensor on some models hence the question. There are 2 MAF sensors on the HR and I have both in stock. They are different from the early DE model.

Okay no worries. A new Mohair top is around £850.00 fitted. Let me check if I have a preowned one in good condition. What colour do you require? Also I will grab a picture of the non contoured console which has square corners, when I am next in the shop and you can do the comparisons.

You initially asked for MAP. What year and engine model is your car?

Before you crack them open, check that the large O ring is in place on the rear of the headlight as well as the arch liner.

Do you mean MAP or MAF?

Console with the rounded lower contours are in stock. Images have been sent over to you by PM:

PM on its way with images:

I have what you require in stock. I will grab some pictures for you when in the shop later today 🙂

In stock. Is it the dash console or the handbrake console between the seats?

Sounds like it. Check your clutch fluid level.

I priced for the main hydraulic tensioner and the slipper/guide so was probably more expensive than just the tensioner from Z1.

The VQ35DE VLSD is easy to weld but as has been said the diff will have to be removed. Also buying a spare diff as has been said, is the way to go to avoid downtime and also to provides a spare VLSD when you want to revert back to stock. Preowned diff units are in stock if required. Just drop me a DM if I can help you further,

You got lucky:

I have one in stock at the minute. £175.00 delivered to your door. Let me know if you want it and I will send over shipping and payment options by DM.

What year and model is your 350?

Plenty in stock which one are you actually after?

It does make a difference to the brake pads, however the handbrake parts and configuration are the same.

I can't help you with your squeaky bed I am afraid, however the singular click will be the rear pads moving in the caliper. I would get the rear wheels off and make sure that all the pad retaining pins are in situ. Also when the wheels are off double check that the dust covers have no interference issues and that no foreign bodies have got caught up in the dust cover aperture or in the tyre thread. Doesn't sound like wheel bearing but here if you require them. https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/126956-for-sale-350z-rear-wheel-bearing-assembly/ https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/126958-for-sale-350z-rear-wheel-bearing-assembly-carrier/

In that case as a matter of course, If I was in this situation I would ignore every thing that the previous owner has stated and start with a clean canvas. Back to basics, being methodical and process of elimination is the way forward if you want to fix yourself. You might get lucky or you can trailer up to HD. Good Luck.

So just to be clear, it was the previous owner that had replaced the sensors, plugs, coils and MAF and wiring and not yourself? Horsham are close to you, get it booked in with them for a diagnostics, quotation and fix.

A member on here recently had a broken cam shaft, just saying, but plenty cams in stock if required. Also check that you have not mixed up the coil wires as it is very easy to mix up cyls 4 & 6 Where are you based?

Okay, so you inherited the car with the non start problem??? If the gearbox has been out for a clutch/flywheel change and the new fly has not been fitted in the exact correct position then this would give you a difficult or non start issue. The fly has pick up points which are triggered by the crank sensor. You will have to get the timing checked by a competent technician who knows there way around a 350Z using the correct diagnostic equipment. Other wise you will have to pull the box and check the flywheel position. The above is only an informed guess as it could be one of many faults causing this issue, some very cheap to fix and others not so.

I can not get any audio from your video. However, I would try a crank position sensor. Have you had the gearbox out recently?