djtimo

Who's is the GM with the custom front air intake and brake ducts + cage!!!!!!

I have done tons of research on this guys. The optimum oil temp for engine life is between 86C and 102C. This was done on a porsche engine test ring over 300,000km. Motul 300v 15w-50 is stable to over 150C for endurance racing but at this temp the oil wedge on the bearings becomes very thin and extra wear is happening. My oil cooler set up was working to well so I have blocked off air ducting to get the car HOTTER. Colder is not better. If you like your car then keeping the oil about 100C on the road and the track is best. I have run up to 137C with no oil cooler but why do that when an oil cooler for a few £££ will keep you down in the optimum range? So messing about andy and get one!

Got my rubber edging in the post today so I've just fitted the front edge. Lots of no nails to hold it on! Still needs to be cleaned up after its dry. Looks a little neater and should help seal the wood ply. And a quick pic of my current ride! Fitted with a RB26 with large single turbo! (I wish)

Andy Steve's car may have done away with the syphone system the stock car uses with the sadle tank. One fuel pump+ hanger in each side of the tank with a Y fitting supplying the fuel rail would give constant pressure under high G force while cornering. I would have though a fuel swirl system would have been put in? (it may have??) but that adds weight and for race regs fuel components need to be be hind a fire wall and not in the driver compartment, this is hard in the zed as we dont have a sealed boot space like alot of cars do. Steve when you next at abbey can we get some inside pic's ?? I have asked RJN for info on the roll cage and a set of CF door cards to fit round the roll cage for my car! lol... Oh and come on lets see your splitter!!!

Got on with a bit of painting today. Grey primer base, gloss back colour and a few coats of clear. Still not done yet as I ran out of clear coat for the underside. 1st coat of primer. 2nd coat of primer. sealing the edges top and bottom with colour first. Thats all the pic's I have for today. I really wanted to get the mounting points sorted today but the hassle of getting the front bumper off in this cold weather put me off Im going to get the bumper off and change out the air filters and sort out the brackets all at once. May be a job for next week. Im really finding it hard to find some edging strip for the leading edge. Im after some push fit "U" shape rubber molding to neaten the front edge up. Any one know where I can get some from?

A square set up (275 wide all the way round) will make the car more neutral. Eg over steer more by reducing the front end slip when cornering. Im looking at running a 265/35 front and 275/40 rear to give me the best balance.

Little more work done today. I went and picked up for zinc plated steel L-brackets and some more Aluminum flat bar (a little wider now at 40mm). Went about marking out where all the L-brackets were going to go. All marked out if you can see, There are 20 L-brackets so the air dam part should add some stiffness to the front lip too. Fitted with just the bracket at each end. Note the nut and bolts are just there for now as these wont fit (and look s***e! ha) when offered up to the car. All 20 brackets fitted to the splitter but not yet attached to the alu air dam. Im still unsure on how im going to do this so if any one has any ideas throw them up. Im thinking of counter sinking the holes and rivet them and hammer flat and smooth over/sand the surface?? Thats it for today :)

Bullet the denoc vinyl would coat more that the splitter! Lol. Would look good though.

Post up how your doing yours Steve as I know you and Mark from abbey were looking into one when I spoke to you at the nippon launch. Little bit of progress on the front splitter. I've been out and picked up some grey primer,gloss black auto paint and some 30mm x 2mm aluminum flat bar that Im going to use as some internal braces. I have also taken the corners off the splitter so its more ankle friendly! I bit more hand sanding and the shape is spot on now. Never mind the tape over the il cooler, its just there for some testing As you can see from the pic above, the Varis splitter has a curve in the center that is leaving a gap from the wood splitter. Im coming up with some ideas on how to sort this as if I leave it open the air that builds up pressure onto of the lip would escape under the car! not really what I want.lol.. This is a quick drawing of what Im thinking of doing. This is a pic's of what my alu brackets may look like, I want to fasten mine to the front crash brace and drop them down vertically as the alu is stronger under tension loading than if it's at an angle like on this scooby. Should be good once done!

will do mate, im gonna be working on it over the next few days. The tie rods wont b here for a week or so :-(

Its 7lbs in weight and it won. Be attached tithe bumper much mate. The Alu supports will come off the chassis rails or front crash brace. The down force alone would rip/bend the bumper.

Top gear did do this but it's a long standing method used by tons of people. Yeah top gear car leaked oil onto the undertray and went on fire. My car has a z speed steel undertray this will not go far enough back to be closeto any heat/ oil drips etc.

Well.............lol... After grounding out my Varis CF splitter a few times (its horrible to hear!) And as we all know down force is great Im building a removable front wind splitter I have done quite a a bit of research on what to use CF,Alu, lexan and finally PLY WOOD!! lol.. Now I know lots of you will be like "Has he lost his mind!?!?!?!" Look at it like this, CF costs a fortune and if I hit anything it will crack or shatter, Alu is quite expensive and hard to work with and source, lexan again is hard to get hold of and in sheets large enough and the right thickness. Marine plywood is cheap,easy to work with, very stiff, light and cost £10 so if it gets banged up Ill just make another! I have managed to get some tie rods like the APR ones below for £6 each!!!! APR ones are £50 for two! Any way on with the pic's! Yes thats a 200cm by 70cm 9mm thick bit of marine ply in the zed!! lol Making the card template. Half way through making the template. Cut out the plywood. Offered up to the car. Splitter sticks out 50mm from the Varis CF one. The edges are going to be trimmed to match the width of the varis splitter soon. The 50mm lip should give a good edge to load up the front end. Im still not sure how im going to tie the splitter into the car yet? It needs to be attached with some strong alu brackets as this thing will have quite alot of force on it at high speed. Im looking to use 4 tie rods on the lip edge and some sort of quick release fasteners on the underside so it can be whipped on and off with no tools. I think ill just use it for events as its gonna be quite large! Its going to be painted black and Im using edging covering for the front edge. Ill post pic's as it gets made but this is so far... Flame away for using wood now! ahahaha :P

Vortech over turbonetics mate. If you have the extra cash go for a boosted performance mid mount. BY FAR the best stock block system on the market at the moment. It would not take much to get it to fit a UK car.

Paul can you get some pic's of the brakes up please!

Picked up a little gadget I've wanted for a while today. A cheap and cheerful SPL meter. Its a calibrated one so I should be quite close to what you would get as a track side reading. The readings were taken at 50cm away at a 45 degree angle. As you all know the car is noisy I think it's a bit quieter now its been mapped but its still loud as hell really. I have no idea what sort of drive by SPL it would make as its louder on boost than just rev'ed with no load too. Anyway, First vid is a cold start still on high idle around 1500 rpm. This vid is a hot idle around 1000 rpm. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7h9VNlTkSQ4 This vid is 4000 rpm (noise test for thunder road!) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grve9O8xVQY This vid is 4750 rpm the standard noise test RPM (3/4 max rev's) The SPL meter is set on peak and hold so the 112+ decibels was the max it read. This is as above but on the other exhaust pipe. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MeeiksqOZkk So as you can see I have failed all the UK noise tests!!! :blush2: Im looking to add 4" diameter magnaflow silencers but Im not sure how long they would need to be to get me down under the 105dB limit most UK tracks have?? I was looking at 14" long but Im now thinking more like there 22" long version? Any one have any ideas?? Also I have finally got round to getting the dyno's plots. There not very good pic's as there just quick phone photo's but you get the picture.

Andy are you sure about dropping the FD ratio? If your looking at FI in the future then this will be a big no no mate. I'm looking for 3.3 fd! Lol. If your gonna stick with NA the 3.9 is a better set up than the 4.08 unless you have the HR engine mate.

Re-building the diff is quick a job, resetting the ring and pinion back lash is the hardest job so ive heard? Did you shim the diff back to OEM spec? Andy hit me up with the details on the diff your looking into!

The main thing is from the looks of It your venting to atmosphere. Venting to the plenum will reduce the catch can load. Most of the water and in condensed fuel/ oil vapour will still be pulled back into the plenum. If it's still has lots of blow by then your piston rings my be worn.

Go to middle hurst nissan mate, Best around, GTR performance center and really look after the car.

LOL... I think It blown Mark's ear drums out! When you tuner rings you to say that he's having second thought's on mapping the high boost due to the noise in the dyno cell, you know the cars loud! lol.. Im looking at magnaflow race car silencers right now! lol.. Im thinking of adding 2 16" 4" body resonators on 2.5" V band clamps and V banding the pipe I remove so i can swap between the "****ing insane" exhaust set up and the "not too bad may allow me to get on track" set up

Andy I may be after a diff in the soon, I would be tempted by the carbonetic plate diff or OS Gikken. Kev H has the Kaaz 2 way and his pops and bangs like a mofo moving around the roads etc. his was set to 80% lock too. If you get some quotes let me know mate im after one.

Little up date guys. Car did 400whp and 420lb/ft at the wheels at only 0.7Bar boost! High boost map of 1.2 bar should get some good numbers!

Andy vie had the cans on for a few hundredmiles now mate. So not filling quickly. The cans are from a local tuner. I think there made by burton power. The plenum is powdercoated the same as the timing cover and intake runners. I painted my first plenum before this one but the PC'ed finish is better.

Just a few pic's of my twin catch can system I've put together. The left can does the PCV and has vacuum, the right can is just used under boost. The full thread can be seen here. Loads more pic's ect. http://forums.**REMOVED**.com//index.php?showtopic=26103&hl= Quick motor shot (the strut brace is going back on) 12mm brass "T" fitting in the valve cover balance line. Inlet to the catch can near the timing cover is coming off the "T" fitting on the cam cover line. This one way valve was added to stop me over pressuring the catch can, the little sight glass could not take boost pressure! Car runs fine. No smoke and there not filling up mega fast.