Chris`I

Got any links? If you run less then it should just retard the timing to stop knock and you lose power. I guess if 95RON is below what its set up to run with, it doesnt retard enough and you still get knock, that wont be good. Just make sure you alway run on 98RON then mate!!!

Yes, the ESR ones were genuine Nissan ones, exactly the same as Adam is offering. Fortunately when I got mine the exchange rate was rather more favourable so prices were better. Nowt you can do about that now though!

This is the wonderful world of emails for you. You can send it looking like its going to or coming from any email address by using the display names. I have seen it used a lot so it looks like you've sent the email to yourself! What the true email address is you should be able to find in the "raw" email, but display names can be set to anything. Also the sender email address can be sent to anything as the email actually comes from the server not a partiuclar email address. You can have some great fun running your own SMTP server doing this, not that I would condone it, and acutally most ISP block the port anyway

Rob (H5) will post up all you need to know about payment in good time

I seem to remember Phil saying the problem was with cats that arent braced causing the movement and cracking tehe Y-pipe. If the cats are secured as the OEM ones are he seemed to think it wasnt a problem

Adams will be the same as the clear ones you already have on the other side. Official Nissan units.

Well we've waited 7yrs already to see if it can be done, whats a few more days

The facia wont pull straight out, its screwed in to the OEM screw holes. However, the HU itself should be removable with the usual HU keys for Alpine I would expect. However, its fairly easy just to remove the centre console (pull back on the surround around the gear lever), remove a few screws and it will just lift away. Watch out for the connector for the 3 pods, you need to pop it off before you can remove it fully

Thats what I've heard too, and what most people tend to use as the "fudge factor" to get from WHP to crank HP. TBH it doesnt really matter what the number is, as long as you use the same dyno all the time and in similar conditions. Trying to compare numbers with others unless they were on the same dyno at the same time is pretty meaningless.

it costs more than a Haltech

Bout blimmin time you two Congrats

I know mate, I'm just playing. TBH my bar is behind the seats, going from side to side on the quarter light windows. Its pretty much the same as the pros. If they dont accept it, they dont accept it

Thanks Mark Missed this while I was away. We have four sets of Nismo Replicas made by Shine at a very reasonable price too. Are these USDM replicas? Ie the big chunky ones

Who? Stew

Being green, I bank online and have no paper credit card statements, so I never know how much I've spent

Probably the safest place to park in Slough as well eh! Chris ? Probably I park at the station car park but I can see it out the window

Yes, we are the sad ba**ard club...... AKA Spamwhores!

I'll have in car video running You'll need to make sure every component is bolted in. No suction cups or velcro allowed, we tried last year.... What about a meaty bar mount with 150mm suction cups? You can hang of these babies Its mounting a bullet cam so definately wont move!

Yes you can if you ask them nicely. Saves you about a tenna +1 - unless you get a very good deal from a main dealer. Dan Perkins in Slough do me very competitive rates and I can drop the car off and walk to work. Very handy

i have done the national on brembos and i thought i would destroy my pads as well so i changed them afterwards and they were fine 3/4 left all round, your only out there for 15 minutes or so, depends how much tread is on the pads and how late you want to brake Definitely worth warming them up first, dont be tempted to tear off with the other people that are under some odd delusion they dont need to warm anything up also when you see the flag make sure your last lap is a cool down, dont hoon it and then stop, otherwise you will cook the pads All sound advice Just take it at the speed you want and you wont cook or kill anything. Just make sure the engine is nice and warm and everything up to temp before you start pushing on

Thats a fair point, I dont know but I think its quite high. Ben's Evo (BAD7BOY) is pretty loud and I think hes done track days there. Hes been black flagged at Bedford so its certainly not quiet. EDIT: Appears to be 105dB so should be fine, but if you have bungs I would fit them

+1 - and inspection of belts, tyres, wheels, brakes, etc. Only thing they change is the oil, oil fiter and air filter I think.

Get us some spots then

Throw in the super duper brakes, probably super light wheels, space framing, cage, proper race seats, harness, heaps of engine work, probably fully stripped out inside as a proper racecar, possibly all sorts of telemetry inside the car, special fuel pump, just for a start. Proper racing isn't cheap. +1 - also remember the races that its being targeted for. This is reliable power. Will run for a long time with no problems flat out. Its very easy to bolt a pair of turbos to the car to get the same power, but to extract it N/A, thats good power

. Stew+1 2. Martinmac+1 3. Stan+1 4. xstric9x+1 5. Ebized +1 6. Beavis +1 7. Tilly +1 8. AK350Z(Scratchy) +1 9. Adam (Arphotographs) (the man with the cam) +1 10. Zmanalex +1 11. Maccaman 12. Squarehead +1 13. Darren-b +1 14. Lexx +1 15. malross +? 16. Chris`I +1 (+1 is the woman with the cam - give you a good run for your money Adam) 17. H5 +1 18. Cara + Doug S 19. Chesterfield +1 20.Paul T 21. T2 22. G18FAN 23. Jay +1 24. P19DRO 25. srobrien (depending on new offshore rota) 26. Vasser 27. Herbie 28. JT1703 + 1 29. dawnc 30. andyzed