Wasso

And we thought you liked shiney I do, that's the process before shiny

Agreed Peter it is a little slippery. Best thing to do is get some 120grit paper and rough it up a little, all the slippery bits are now rough and easier to hold. Simples!

I was having a chat with Sam Hindle this weekend all about your Zed. She stayed over with Rob She said you was on a forum but not sure which, and these pics confirm it all especially those pics from inside RT Performance. Looking good BTW

In public! I hope you're out back hidden by fences. NOT that sort of polishing Mr H

I don't think much to your stereo or navigation But on the other side you'll need to wear a captains cap just like a pilot, it's like a flight deck Well it does fly

I had a free Griffin Carbon and rubber case with my last iPhone, lasted forever and protected my phone perfectly. Without a doubt I'll get a Griffin again Adrian that'll polish out mate in fact you'd do best staying in bed with the amount of things you've broken over the last few days

Funny enough no Mr G But something in that area will get a polish soon and be up for sale in November Talking of polishing I'm outside now polishing

I think we spoke about it while you were in the car during the mapping? I can change it back no probs if its annoying. I don't recall anything about changing the fans, otherwise I'd have come straight to you with the problem. Only by chance did I find the latest Uprev update includes the option to change the fan initiation point. I'll be heading to Dorset the second weekend of October so I'll pop in

Good tip yes, I just spray them and wipe etc with WD40.

You don't need a punch tool for the Zed. What I'd is press in the retaining spring plate with a screwdriver. Then whilst the pressure is off the pin get some pliers and grab the pin in the middle and slide twist the pin towards you until there's enough to grab the pin from the outside of the caliper. The retaining spring plate will still need pushing down until the pin is almost all the way out. Make sure once the pin is out the spring plate doesn't spring out as you could lose it. Once the pin is out release the pressure from the spring plate and remove it. The second pin pull out with pliers as you would the first one. Replace I'm reverse order. Tip: The holes in the pin, line those up nicely so that when you put the retaining clips through them they're easy to find. Tools needed. Wheel wrench Screwdriver Pliers Simple.

It's not that loud but continuously annoying. I could understand if I was FI but I'm not

Why? I see why they've done it in America as it helps reduce intake ambient temps, but now my fan is continuously on??? I personally don't want it on because there's never been a need before. The temps never rise above 91/92 so I don't see a reason to reduce it to 85?

I'd say she needs a bit of a clean out as she's very smokey!!!! Very odd I have to say

That could have been a real mess!!

Rare as rocking horse poo too. One sold from JDM Cain who's pictured above sold his second hand for 260$ so they're not cheap. Sourcing one that is in stock is near on impossible. They are shown for sale on some websites but not in stock.

The ARC Titanium strut would be good. Wire tuck. And good clean of the engine bay. Good work though Adrian, starting to come along nicely.

This is interesting..... http://my350z.com/forum/tuning/553106-u ... pdate.html Who's recently been for a tune via Uprev Software. A call to Jez I think is in order It's a possible as it seems to tie in?

That's why I suggested going further than 1/4 mile However, I think the higher ambient temperature is almost certainly being caused by "reflected" heat under the bonnet caused by all that feckin polishing PMSL that could be the answer. I like your thinking Chris I'll ring her down I'll have a check over in the morning but the other evening didn't see anything that 'may' contribute to the issue. I see what you're saying about ambient temps but I've never know the fan to stay on this long. I'll have another gander tomorrow for sure. Fluids were all changed last year during a FULL fluid change including dif and gearbox etc. at least a fluid change is simple and may drain out any issues if any? Stage one of problem solving I guess.

Ricey Shed If you want things fixing head to the Zed Shed If you want your electrics blown or car on fire head to the Ricey Shed

Worth a bash, have to say though its literally on constantly which isn't normal. What I don't understand is when the fan activates the first and second time it turns off as a result of bringing the temps below 86 degrees. Yet the 3rd time it doesn't reduce the temps anymore than 88?? I'd be surprised with an airlock as I've not tampered with the cooling system? How else would a air lock suddenly appear? Potential but I'm really thinking electrical for some reason. That could be relevant, but what is crazy how it works twice then fails to stop on the third activation?? I'm wondering if its a faulty thermostat or something. Problem is this kind of issue can take ages to resolve with multiple attempts and huge cost. I'll have a gander on my350z as well to see what come up with. Grrrr I hate problems like this. Thanks for the suggestions.... Just wish someone else has come across this issue?

Well, clean car, clay car, protect and seal. The dirty rain won't be an issue as the wax protection keeps your car cleaner for longer. Especially after a good clay.

Depends on the size of each bar. When claying have a piece flattened with a rough thickness of 2-4mm. Size around 2-4inches in diameter. If you need a visual perspective take a look on YouTube. Remember to remould the clay after each section and turn over to ensure any contaminants picked up aren't being scrapes across the panel. As I say look for meguiars clay on YouTube to get a visual perspective.

Okay I have encountered my first potential issues in nearly 3 years of ownership, not bad eh. Here is the problem. The car is driven 10 miles from home to work with outside ambient temps ranging from 10-16 degrees. I leave work and sit in stop start traffic for 10 mins. My rad fans will kick in at 90/91 degrees as can be shown by the below OBD iPhone App. The fans cool the water temps down to 85 degrees when they then shut off. Start stop traffic again a little later in my journey and the fans kick in as necessary at 90/91 degrees. Temps reduce back to 85 and the fans shut off. Now on the 3rd time the temps rise to 90/91 the fans activate but never turn off. From watching my coolant temps they never reduce down below 88 degrees, even when driving at say 30-40mph over say 1/4 of a mile. So! Has anyone experienced such a strange problem or have any ideas of the root cause? There could be a number of options from Sensors, Stats, Low coolant (which the level is fine) etc? Anyone?