Keith D

Okay, so some interesting findings from my first test. Standard cats, reset STFTs, warm engine, at fast idle the trims are 105% and AFR 14.6. Then I put on the cobra 200 cel cats, and a radium oil catch kit I bought on black Friday. Reset STFTs again, warm engine, fast idle, the fuel trims are now 95% and AFR 14.6. I was expecting HFCs to reduce backpressure and let a bit more oxygen reach the upstream O₂ sensors at idle. That would bias the sensors lean, and the ECU would add fuel. But I got the exact opposite, the ECU is having to take fuel out.🤔

Has anyone ever experimented with welding second bricks into the y pipe? That would give a substrate surface are equivalent to stock cats, but all the advantages of higher flow

Disco biscuits, the real reason football hooligan culture disappeared in the 90s. Everyone was still too loved up from the night before and the only thing on anyone's mind Saturday lunchtime was finding water. And the FA thought it was their all seater stadiums that did it 🤣

Lovely car, a steal at £2500. I genuinely would have bought it myself for that as a second toy. I had mine mapped at Horsham. Being an NA there isn't tons of ultimate power to be had from a remap, but I found a noticeable increase in torque and the car comes alive through the mid range, way more eager to get up and go. And no you're not the oldest fart in here! I'm guessing that could be me (56). Been customising cars since 85 and have no intention of ever stopping and acting my age! Ah raves... the days of meeting at scratchwood services to convoy to a field or an empty warehouse...

Yes this old chestnut. I got my hands on a set of Cobra HFCs today and thought it would be interesting to compare them to a set of OE cats and and a set of HFCs I couldn't get through an MOT despite a remap and getting them cooking. Firstly I'm not trying to pick an argument with anyone nor run down any manufacturer - please don't take offence it's not intended. The 200 cel cat brick is ~4" dia and the substrate is ~4" long. Assuming a substrate surface area of 75"sq/inch, the total surface will be 3605"sq. The 300 cel cat brick is ~4" dia and the substrate ~2.3" long. Assuming a substrate surface area of 110"sq/inch, the total surface area will be 3170"sq. About 13% less area. I've never pulled an OE cat apart, and unfortunately mine are back on under the car. If anyone happens to have a set kicking about perhaps you can let me know the dimensions, but if I recall the front down pipe bit has a 400 cl ~4" and ~2" long substrate, and the rear part has another bit of oblong substrate maybe ~4" wide x 2" tall and ~2" long. Assuming a substrate surface area of 150"sq/inch, this makes the total surface area approx 5600"sq. I'm going to see if its feasible to get a local friendly garage to do back to back emissions tests (I'll swap the cats). Seems to me there should be a linear graph of substrate area v performance that can be used to help choose an optimum substrate type and size. I found I can can buy bricks online and I have a local custom exhaust fab who can cut and weld my HFCs with new bricks. I'll keep people posted.

Spent the day mocking up the airlift boot build. Pretty pleased with the outcome. The whole lot will need to come out again for finishing / trimming in acoustic cloth. Kept the Bose for now, that will be another project.

Welcome. G37x isn't plain.

The market for a £30k pristine unmolested low mileage 350z is going to be very small.

It's not the infamous, but easily fixed, rear axle click? If so drop a rear wheel and have a look at the rear drive shaft nut in the centre of the hub. There is a thin pressed steel cap which goes over the nut and has castellations for the split pin. It's this thin pressing that is rotating slightly (clicking) because the thin steel castellations will be distorted. Fit a proper machined castellated nut instead, buy the kit from Torqen or Tarmac Sportz. 20 minute job to fit.

It's on the list... this toy really needs to go "tish" 😂

That's the next bit sorted 😁

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Welcome. I'm no expert but as far as I know replacement BCMs need to be reprogrammed as they store VIN number, immobiliser codes etc. Dealers can usually do it, or there are specialists who can clone them. I'd give a dealer and some cloners a call and seek their advice. Couple cloners below from a quick google. Body Control Module Cloning - Welcome To Pelicandiagnostics Browse Expert BCU and BCM Cloning Services UK | ECU Decode BCM Cloning - DB Vehicle Electrics ECU BSI BCM SAM Cloning | FastMaps Remapping - Custom ECU Tuning and Remapping in Pembrokeshire Hope you get it sorted, let us know how it goes.

Mine is a GT and it lined up exactly with the existing holes in the boot used for a GT wing. It was a very simple job - I reused the fasteners and added a strip of 3M tape around the edge. Not sure about a V2 to V1 Nismo change.

It's hard to diagnose a problem or location from a sound, but if its constant with speed not rpm its likely to be either wheel bearings / wheel side diff / brakes / wheels & tyres.

It's a fiddly job joining the upper and lower parts of the wing together, but other than that its a good fit to the boot panel. Nismo mk 1 probably my favourite wing. Now need some smoked rear lights...

Welcome. Lovely looking z.

Thats my rainy weekend job sorted - Nismo mk1 full carbon wing from Torqen. The quality of the carbon is gorgeous and well worth the wait. Now I've just got to make my mind up between airlift v coilovers with air cups...

My garage is a bit of a building site, I'm extending it from a double to a triple to make rook for another project - something rusty that needs a bare shell rebuild I do like an obnoxiously large tool box maxed out with shadow foam OCD though 🤣

Do you have a delete kit? Its annoying not being able to simply remove throttle bodies, and the engine bay is a total mess of hoses, whoever designed it has a hard on for hose. My Z is a summer toy only and garaged all year around so there is no risk of freezing / sticking.

There's no stutter on power, it's smooth as butter all the way to the red line. It's not caused by the car.

The clear lights, wheels and door handles really pop off the pristine looking paint. That's a fine looking z.

TBH I've never fitted air ride, I've always gone with coil overs on previous toys and either had the cars lowered and mostly ended up bashing the heck out the front, or had them higher that I might as well have stuck with stock. Airlift isn't cheap either so if I end up making the wrong choice it's the thick end of £5,000. A set of Tein Flex Zs are >£1000.

Horsham put it down to a glitch with the dyno, but it could also have been the wheels climbing the roller and jumping