Gassy

If the bulb is flickering on and off it won't be the fuse.It sounds like a poor connection to me.

I fitted sensors on mine about six weeks ago,easy to fit and there is loads of space around the spare wheel to locate all the other bits and pieces(module,bleepers etc).I brought a set off E-bay they came the same colour as the car(perfect match)and the instuctions were easy to follow.The worst bit is drilling the holes you do get the correct drill/hole cutter in the kit but it did take me a good hour of measuring measuring and measuring before I actually went for it.I am really pleased with them none of the kits seemed expensive I think I paid around £16.Minus the faffing regarding drilling the holes it took me about 30-45mins to complete the job,the bumper doesn't need to be removed and the interior panels are just clipped in.I don't understand why the price goes up because it's a Zed although I am in a different position to many as I am in the motor trade so thankfully I don't have to use garages. Also worth mentioning I am 90% sure I read something on the forum regarding a kit you can get where you don't have to drill the bumper it just involves having something on the inside of the bumper.

Hi 14N,could I purchase one of these from you?. Thanks Glen.

Looks nice Dom,I've had my Zed about five weeks now and it never fails to disappoint.Mine is pretty much standard but there are some real beauties belonging to people on the forum.Enjoy.

I work most weekends but the 3rd is good for me.

Had my Zed a month now and yes 20mpg is about right.The best I've had is 22mpg but I always get tempted to jump on the loud pedal so between 14-20mpg is normal for meí ½í¸Š.

Hi George,to me I doesn't sound like fuel pump,you may be able to narrow it down as the pump is located behind the passenger seat underneath the glove box(easy to get to) just get you close and get somebody to put the ignition on and see if the noise comes from that area.Or does the noise come more from under the bonnet if so it could be the fuel pressure regulator?. Please note I could be wrong it could be something completely different. On a lighter note it sounds like an alien í ½í±½ getting excited to be going for a drive in your Zed.

I did my oils the other week KyleR and yes I added Molyslip exactly the same as the one in the pic above.The fill plug is on the offside/drivers side of the box and you will need a 10mm Allen key to remove the plug.

Nothing to lose by having a go,I suppose it depends how patient you are and how much spare fiddling time you have?.

Had my zed only three weeks and joined thinking I bet nobody ever posts anything.How WRONG was I.A very good place to be indeed.ðŸ‘ðŸ»

Ok on the old unit you need to remove the bolt/union that is in the circle end of the pipe.Be careful as there will be x2 washers that need to go both sides of the pipe when you are bolting the two units together.

Wow,all of these put my zed to shame looks like many hours and pennies have been lavished on these beautiesí ½í±í ¼í¿»í ½í¸€.When I work out how to get a photo uploaded I will post some pics of mine.

Yep as KyleR says buy the cheapest lambda sensor you can find and try that first.Hope you get it sorted sooní ½í±í ¼í¿».

Ok,you probably won't like my answer very much but here goes,the very best diagnostic equipment in land is let's say misleading.All engine sensors are in what is called a "closed loop" system and are all feeding information back to the E.C.U electronic control unit to regulate the emissions.Closed loop system means all the sensors are linked to each other, they all compensate to a certain degree if another sensor becomes faulty and there lies your problem is it just a faulty sensor?or a faulty cat?or has another sensor failed causing the emissions to be out and this is what is putting the light on.The garage i feel have advised you as best as I feel they can because nobody can say 100% it's this or that.Personally if the engine is running ok,no misfire/lack of power etc I would take an educated guess at it being a faulty sensor.Sorry if that doesn't help much but there is no diagnostic system that will tell you it definitely one way or the other.

It won't re-pressurise by pumping the pedal on your own unless you have a "self bleed kit" because doing it on your own means that every time you lift the pedal back up you are drawing the air back in that you have just expelled by pushing it down,a bleed kit is essentially a pipe with a slit in the end that will let fluid/air pass through it but when you lift your foot off the pedal does not let the air back in.The other method is to have a second person on the pedal end when they put the pedal down the bleed nipple must be open while the pedal is down tighten the nipple off and get the person the other end to lift the pedal so it doesn't let the air back in.Or gravity bleeding may work which means fill the reservoir all the way to the top then crack the nipple on the slave cylinder open and let the fluid trickle through if you keep an eye on the nipple you can see the air coming through when it is dripping a steady drip of fluid job done tighten the nipple and you should be all good.I you do go for gravity bleed method you need to keep an eye on the reservoir as if it empties then you will be back to square one as air will be back in the line.

My personal opinion is that a larger oil cooler wouldn't make a great deal of difference for the cost/fitting as it works on the principle that cold air is forced through it as you are driving forwards when drifting yes you are still getting "air ram effect" but not as much as you would be as going in a straight line.As stated above the hotter the oil gets the thinner it will become.Maybe using a thicker oil would be the way to go but I don't know wether it would be advisable to leave it in for normal/road use.

Hi,x2 reservoirs means they are completely separate systems, although on lots of vehicles they all use the same fluid from the same reservoir.As ZMANALEX says crawl underneath you are looking for a unit approx 6-8inchs long with a single pipe running to it and a bleed nipple on it the same as you would see on a brake caliper it will probably be covered in fluid,essentially it's a tube with a rod in middle of it.On 99per cent of vehicles this unit is inside the bell housing of the gearbox and the only way to replace them is to remove the gearbox praise the lord for an old school idea a ten minute fix as opposed to 5-6hrs on some vehicles.

Hi,glad you solved the mystery,there is an easy way to tell which belt you need the part number on all belts gives you all the information you need 6pk and 7pk are the amount of peak/ribs on the belt and the other numbers are the length in mm of the belt.Hope this helps somebody.