Beefy

So I've had my Z for 3 years now. Enjoyed the car loads, so I thought it was about time I made a build thread. I've been a JDM enthusiast for a pretty long time, starting with my S14a when I was 19 (Not a suitable car for 19 year-olds by any standard for future reference). It was pretty modified, but all the mods made it unreliable and as you can imagine with S-Bodies, rust was the main factor for me getting rid. I was sick of all the turbo issues, and with all my time dedicated to university, I really needed something reliable, didn't give me a headache on long journeys, but was still fun. I managed to pick up an 02 JDM Z DE, GT spec for 5.5K @85K in 2015 with FSH. It already had Tein -30mm springs. 20mm Eibach spacers all round. Map @ Abbey motorsports. Full Miltek system. Berks HFC's. Decent pioneer double-din. D1 spec throttle controller. Standard GT stuff. Pic from the advert: I've done mainly servicing ever 7K miles, some minor mods over the three year period as well though. First minor mod/ repair that worth mentioning are probably the Splitfire coilpacks. I was getting a missfire/failure in one of the cylinders. Running very lumpy, sounded good though. Happened during spouts of heat, so i guessed coilpacks failing. Ended up being spot on. Can't state how much smoother splitfires are compared to OE coil packs. Car picks up a lot more smoothly throughout the rev range. The skirts were looking a bit bare, so I installed some G.R.A.M.S side steps in gloss black. Lovely cheap mod, looks much better.

Hey David, Afraid I just checked the only option I've ever seen is still "Option B". I looked in the parts catalogue, only found option "B". I've checked all the the databases for Nissan aftermarket parts now and have only found the part number: KD8400 Which is the option "B" wheel. There is absolutely no record for the wheel you're selling I'm afraid. Which for Nissan Japan is a non-existent thing to happen in my experience. If you want to check: https://nissan.epc-data.com/fairlady_z/z33/6902-vq35de/misc/ If you can see a part number on the wheel, I'm more than happy to double check and if I'm wrong I'll completely hold my hands up to it.

That's not the momo from Z, thats a momo from an Evo 7/8 with an S-Body? (Could be wrong, it's one of the late 90's models anyway) airbag. Afraid to say they're common as muck. This is the JDM Momo wheel:

In my defence, it was only a chip until about 3 weeks before my MOT. Ironworks on the A4 killed it :'( Nah, but it's my insurer that contract auto glass to do the work. My windscreen cover contract is with my insurer. I got off the phone with the financial conduct authority and they said my insurer is liable for getting this service completed in a reasonable amount of time. Still waiting on contact back from them to see how to proceed.

Gotta rant about this somewhere I guess... So I've had a cracked windscreen for a while, finally put some time aside to get it replaced under the insurance, call autoglass, time slot sorted, 1 week before MOT is due, lovely. Autoglass turn up early, while I'm out and they've turned up with the wrong glass... (No wiper heatstrip). Anyway, autoglass say they're sourcing an extra glass, meanwhile I'm left waiting, after loads of contact and me pestering them as well as my insurer to get this done asap. Today I get a call from autoglass, a week after my MOT was due, saying it'll take 6 weeks to complete as it needs to be sourced from Japan. Get on the phone to my insurer, as I'll be out of a car for 8 week in total, ask if they supply a courtesy car, as I got my windscreen cover through them. Nope. Any help? Nope. Insure me on another vehicle for the meantime FOC? Nope. Do I still have to pay my full insurance over the 8 weeks my car is off the road? Yes, of course I do. I @*!# you not, from the mouth of the elephant employee "In case you get into a crash". "While it's sat in my garage" "Yes" I've also been told if I get into a crash without an MOT, they would pay out... "If you say so mate". Absolutely insane customer service, completely useless as you'd expect. Anyway, insurance is up soon, so will be changing. Any recommendations? Beefy.

The Missus hairdryer it is then!

Thanks for the advice! If only I knew this before I painted the bumper Going to leave it "Partially fitted" and secured with ties until it takes it propper shape for a few days, seems to have worked reasonably well so far! Shame it'll never look 100% from up close, but hopefully it'll look good from a "Reasonable" distance!

Hey guys, so after a LONG time, I finally got my "KBD Nissan 350Z (03-08) Nismo 2 Style 1 Piece Polyurethane Front Bumper" ipainted. LINK: https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/kbd-nissan-350z-03-08-nismo-2-style-1-piece-polyurethane-front-bumper.html Anyway, it fits around the wings pretty well, is actually the best sized aftermarket bumper I've seen in general. However, the badge area, inbetween the headlights is a bit oversized, I have drilled pilimary holes, and it clear there is maybe 15mm too much material that distorts the area, not allowing for correct fitment, although this has no effect on the other areas of the bumper, just the front pins (Just above the badge). I've looked around a bit online, and can't find any information on how to fettle this to fit a bit better, if anybody has any advice it would be more than welcome Thanks in advance -Beefy

Can anyone tell me the reasoning behind the "Nipple bolt" part of the compression arm is for. I've been staring at my replacements for ages wondering what on earth they actually do. Am I supposed to milk it? It is for extra sustenance from the Z gods? Answers on a postcard please. - Beefy

Summer is normally a really bad time to sell cars. People usually buy new cars around August/Sep time. Range Rovers are everywhere nowadays as well, and people normally don't want to run a big V8, moreover a Diesel V8 nowadays. I think you'll be more successful around winter time, but selling a car like that is hit and miss, it just takes a long time if they're are loads about. I think I sold my S14 after 8 days? My friend has had his M3 up for sale for 6 Months with no luck. It's just the nature of supply and demand. Honestly, If you're looking for a fast sale, and you don't mind putting in leg work, swap it for something like an S15, Supra, something of similar value, but uncommon, you'll get phonecalls within a day.

Are these the SpecD turning headlights or the Spyder ones?

Honestly, getting in cars with long wheelbases now it feels like I'm driving a ferry across the channel. My S body had a knackered turbo (And everything else to be honest) so it just didn't have the low down tug that the Z has to initiate though. Horses for courses I guess.

Too much lock too early into the skid. As @Ekona said, too much aggression. The thing with Z's I've found compared to other cars when skidding is because the wheelbase is pretty square you need faster reaction times counter steering, and you can't begin the counter steer before the drift actually starts, which I always could in My S14 for example. Being in the wet isn't really that useful in the Z, as it still has a lot of grip on the rear wheels with the stock shocks and ARB. If you're serious about skidding, I would buy a set of adjustable coil overs and set them up so you get a nice bit of neutral steer, and then dialling in the rear end with a bit more throttle. Each to their own though, of course. Scandinavian flick works well as well in low grip conditions, but the Z is pretty snappy so can end in tears if you don't react fast enough or get it wrong Good luck and stay safe friend.

Alpine route is fantastic to drive. Unnervingly dangerous to the inexperienced however.

I think I remember seeing a bunch of guys doing this near the start of mile straight. Looked like a lot of fun. Millbrook is a great site. Sadly every time I end up there I end up on the Belgian Pave for about 4 hours.

For the front, I'd say lower control arms, (Banana arms), always end up going on z's. I wouldn't worry too much about bushes until they go anyway. Gets your monies worth from the stock rubber ones.

Update, Lazyness has stopped me from checking, but noticed no knocking noise at high speed, even over fairly large potholes. At lower speeds, even the smallest pothole will give me a clunk or a knock.

I'll give it a shot Cheers!

Sorry, should have clarified, rubber bushings are in perfect order from what I can see. Arm is located well in the center of the bushing. Knock seems to be coming from further inboard the car than the arm. Almost sound like it's coming from inside the bay to me...

Depends how much you're lowering it by to be honest. A simple 20-40mm drop will be fine on bushes, but consider polybushes in the future.

Checked today, can confirm that Banana arms are in perfect order. Any suggestions?

Hey all, Swapped my ratty old suspension for some MeisterR's today/yesterday. Took it out for a bit of a drive, tweaked height, rebound, etc. Nice solid coilovers by the way! Anyway, noticed that fully left hand down lock that there is knocking from the left hand side. Almost sounds like someone is hitting the underside with a small spanner... Knocking on the left hand side is also more pernounced, and when I took the original shock out for that side, the arm would barely move down to get the shock out (Even with upper arm removed, had to compress coil springs in the end to remove). Still drives, steers and brakes true. Some mild vibration when turning steering on the spot, but my power steering pump isnt amazing... Do you guys think it could be Banana arm? Any other thought would be very welcome. Thanks in advance, Beefy

Just as an update, I gave them a change to replace them in in Jan, I still haven't received them, so yesterday I asked for a full refund, still awaiting payment though. Might have to grab some from ZOCIETY, but they come in at £650 ish, give some for import tax as well, so we'll see. I heard rumours that Chris was planning on supplying some soon... I wonder if Zakustech would be up for a group buy, anyone?

Yeah, pretty shocking. They're sending another set out soon however. If these ones are also poor quality, I'll send them back and get a full refund. On another note, rumours that Tarmac Sports will be doing rear louvers soon, as well as the fact you can now buy them from Zakustech as well should mean there is a nice selection to choose from soon.

I'm going to fit them anyway, will see what i think when they're all on. If they look alright for a distance, I will keep them and probably use filler and paint them again in the summer. I'm tempted to say they might break when fitted as it's colder than normal at the moment, but we'll see. Painting has commenced today. 3 coats of primer, 2 coats of colour (Black) and will proceed with 2 clear coats for good measure. Looking for Satin/Matt black ideally. The paint has split in a few places and looks patchy already. It seems that it's just a really bad mold that they're using, They need to refine the process. Will update with more pic as and when they're fitted. Overall at the moment 4/10.