Lewis_UK

Camshaft sensors maybe.

Based purely on codes, it COULD be camshaft sensors. Camshaft Position Sensor Part Number (for Bank 2 / near radiator) Left 23731-AL61A Camshaft Position Sensor Part Number (for Bank 1 / near firewall) Right 23731-6J90B Obivously cheaper ones are aftermarket.

Dirty MAF sensor highly likely, theres a few post on how to clean and what products to use. Some guides mention the throttle body in their post, take care if you going to clean the TB aswell.

This is correct, as well as lights on, the washer fluid reservoir needs to be about 70-80% full for the sensor to activate.

Although not many Zed parts, I just post cause this code doesnt get posted on their site, but is only for limited time periods. (I seem to be on some special mailing list from ECP) You can get quite a few good quailty service parts from here for the Zed which is what I use it for. Anyways happy shopping

EuroCarParts - 25% DISCOUNT OFF EVERYTHING - Code: FLASH25 11/05/2016 19:00-21:00 MODS please delete after this time, thanks.

Japspeed are deemed the cheapest branded make of exhaust system, like most things you pay for what you get. As for Y-Pipes: Japspeeds are ok I guess. If you want no flexi Y-Pipe check out the "Stillen Y-Pipe" With flexi check out: "Motordyne XYZ Y-Pipe" As for HFC: Berk HFC tend to be the favorite. More good make are: Invidia, Cobra, Kinetex Have seen some people go some mixed combos like: Berk HFC, Stillen Y-Pipe and Invidia Backbox. As for Cats, only ever seem them go bad from excessive overfueling, mainly from a misfire of some kind.

Already a post: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/92513-alarm-reset/

There are so many variables with the VQ35DE it is a nightmare to pinpoint, as other have said just keep on top of it. Could be anything: Valve Seals (Engine Rebuild?) - (Blue smoke on startup?) Piston Rings (Engine Rebuild?) - (Easy to notice, blue smoke on acceleration) PCV Valve (£10 Replacement?) - (Oil Consumed under hard decceleration) Valve/Rocker Cover Leak - Spark Plug Well (£200 each side for Rocker Cover?) or (Get new o-rings and custom fit, £30-£40?) High Engine Mileage (Thicker Oil?) or (Engine Rebuild?) Driving Style (Not letting engine/oil get to temperature before spirited driving?) PS: Replacement Engine 30,000-60,000miles between £2000-£3000ish, if you start spending more might aswell go for engine rebuild atleast you will know for certain it is "new".

I've recently been to Devon a couple of times this month and last and the way driving standards change is crazy. Going M25(Southbound) heading to Basingstoke, people don't seem to know how to drive. Joining the A303 from Basingstoke all the way to Devon, the average speed of traffic must have been about 90mph no joke. On that note, people have to check the route, A303 Basingstoke to Devon. it has some amazing roads of all kinds, truly a great route I must say.

Best guess about £2000. £500 for blown engine? £500-600 for used working gearbox? £500-600 for used GT4 RIMs? £££ Rest scrap metal?

When buying a "replacement" engine straight from one thats been in a crash etc, you should get everything unless stated. Also remeber (you mechanic will proberbly tell you) you also need to consider new service parts, all engine fluids, oil filter, aux belts, and to be honest might aswell do spark plugs aswell while you are there. In terms of price, I had an engine swap done nearly about 6 months ago. Costs £2500 for engine VQ35DE 40,000 ish, about £900 for labour, engine out, engine in, and another £200 for service parts. Just make sure it doesnt smoke. Good Luck.

Simply claiming your car had that stuff is irrevelant. There's only 2 things you can do to guarentee the value to addons which you have done: If it is a "true" addon, you should inform insurance, ie: turbo, decat, cai, plenum spacer etc stuff like that. What you have mentioned are original parts replaced just cause there worn. BUT, IF you want to, you can simply add in the extra value you beileve. So if you saying you have spent around £2k on replacing worn parts. Then add £2k onto the estmated car value when you first setup your insurance, so if you said originally £6500 for value, put it to £8.5k. This should secure what you are looking to do. Be warned, you might incur maybe £30-£50 premium for increaing cars estimated valvue.

@bababongles, I've never liked the Gingers, BUT, that angle, those rims, roadster, plus the mini front splitter and side skirts......... that thing looks sexy....

Faulty ESP System possible?

Basically Kyle on these cars as you have found out the CEL will only generate on an ACTUAL current fault. So if it coil pack/spark plug past service life, they could be at the stage of breakdown, so yes, car starting up from cold is fine no problems, but once everything is warm is like a whole different ball game. As for the coil packs your are right, should you disconnect one and there IS a change, the coils are good, should you disconnect one and nothing changes, thats your man.

Whats current mileage on the car btw? Maybe in need of spark plug change anyway. When I got around to inspecting spark plug they where completely fouled. Upon inspection the previous owner had fitted VKH20 Denso Iridium (1Step Colder) not sure why, it only has CAI, Plenum Spacer and Slienced Decats. Have since switched to PLFR5A-11 (NGK 6240) NGK Laser Platinum, and I must say, the thing runs soooo smooth now. Might be worth also checking. Regards.

Thanks to you Alex, although temporary, still need to get cam covers sorted at some point PS, Alex is the man, hence the ZMAN, seeing as you live in Scotland aswell, this pays massive dividends.

I've this scenario twice now. Both was misfire. (If I'm not mistaken CEL flashing means misfire) If the CEL Stayed solid after flashing would be easy to track. Scenario one: NO CEL, this is because i felt the misfire straight away, i knew exactly what it was so poodled home. Come next day pulled all Coil packs and spark plugs, All dry apart from Cylinder #5 which the well was covered in oil. After I swapped all spark plugs (they where really fouled anyway) can ran fine no misfire. Scenario two: Actually came week later after scenario one, After about 30-40min drive CEL started flashing, but did not stay on. as soon as i saw i dropped to the neutral, (was on motorway at the time) let it roll to next junction and could thankfully pull over. Now funnierly enough, because of previous incident i actually took out tools and spare coil packs i don't know why, but i did. Instantly checked Coil pack #5, was extremely hot, so let it cool. After letting cool and inspecting looks like the coil pack had melted somewhat, intermittently failing. (Probably didn't clean it up properly). Changed it over continued on my journey, can run perfectly fine.

I'll third that ^ EDIT: its same on 350Z

Does this have the HR bonnet? Assuming this is DE due to 1 air intake?

F**king hell, hope you ok mate. Judging from you posting clearly still alive which is great , just goes to show the mighty Zed saves a life again.

Abit late to that party, but there is longer video for us to enjoy!!!! got to love that rev limiter: EDIT: Just noticed through all the madness of the driving, check out those wing mirrors.

Congrats on this feat. Just a question, I remeber the instructor "HAD" to drive back after I passed my test, because of something silly, was this the case with you? Did he/she get the pleasure of driving your Zed home after you had passed?

So I have had a look into this for you abit, defo seems like a legit company, google maps shows imagery of there warehouse with there logo june 2014. It does say on there site: But with that being said, it also says: Now with all this, to keep it positive, the only thing i can think is, that the item you ordered is no longer in stock. Hence no reply within 48 hours, confirmation of purchase but no dispatch etc. All seems legit so far, just bad customer service by the looks of it. Hope for better tomorrow.