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shaun350z

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Everything posted by shaun350z

  1. I dont know mate these came out of a 2004 DE, all I know is they dont fit the roadster...
  2. For sale is a pair of tan/orange leather seats from a GT spec 350z with 74k miles. So being the GT spec they are heated and electric with SRS airbags, all working perfectly when removed. The seats are close to perfect condition, just the usual bolster wear (drivers) and slight marks to the front. I am asking for £200 £180 £160 and will have to be collected OR a courier arranged by you from RM13 area. The only reason for selling is due to replacing them with black leather seats. FINAL PRICE DROP otherwise they will be listed on eBay These will not fit a roadster due to the different electrical connections/plugs!
  3. +1 for megs tyre gel if you like glossy/wet look OR auto finesse satin for a satin finish Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. shaun350z

    What a knob!

    +1 on j-f-customs gear gaiter
  5. It depends on the spec of the 350z I was only looking for a UK GT spec so brembos, heated seats cruise control etc. I think it was only the UK enthusiast spec (I could be wrong) that came with non-heated leather seats hence the no perforations... Regarding the import thing I think it was only the ST spec (again could be wrong ) which is similar to the UK GT Spec that had heated leather seats so a lot more JDM Z's had non-heated leather seats.
  6. I think perforated leather only come with the heated seats to allow the heat to vent through the seats quicker? My tan leather seats and black leather seats are both heated and perforated I could be wrong though Z is looking good!
  7. 04.06.2016 New seats and clicking axle fix! Some more progress on the Z today getting ready for wrap, fitted the seats, looks so much better in black! Before After Also adressed my clicking rear axle that started last week only took 1-2 hours Heres the original rusted/corroded splines on the driveshafts Cleaned the splines and the hub with a wire brush and brake cleaner Applied loctite on the splines of the driveshaft and the the hub then reinstall For anyone thinking of doing a DIY or why I used loctite instead of grease
  8. I aligned it with the edge of the grill so should be straight, I think its the slight gap between the plate and the body thats making it look wonky! I was installing it at night under a flood light so it might be wonky I will have a look tonight!
  9. Been a slow couple months recently as the Z has taken a back seat as Ive been spending time/money on making my own DIY CNC machine which I will be hopefully using to do some bits and peices to the zed! If anyone wants anything cut (cutting area is approx 800mm x 600mm) im happy to try and help! (obviously at a small price ) Only recently finished it and I have already finished cutting one of my mates university project! 20ish sheets of 9mm OSB and countless hours of cutting! (if anyone is wondering its a flat pack homeless shelter! And its supposed to look unfinished/being assembled ) Anyway back to the Z! 06/05/2016 New Number Plates / New seats / Wrapping Plans Recently purchased a private number! At £250, I thought it was bargain! Also removed the front plate holder Also purchased a set of gloss black badges which will hopefully be fitted next month after it gets professionally wrapped! Will upload some pics when its done! But before that I need to swap out my tan seats for a pair of black ones that I bought from the forum, and do some minor bodywork repairs i.e. stonechips in the bonnet/bumper and a few dents in the doors!
  10. +1 for the ARK, outstanding quality, at motorway speeds 2-3k rpm its pretty quiet! Also it looks pwetty I think you can only get them with burnt tips though...
  11. I recently finished making my own diy cnc! Open builds ox cnc is a really good strong diy cnc, mines made of various alu profiles and 10mm aluminium for the gantrys only had it a few months but it's been working pretty hard last few weekends cutting a mates university project! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Hi Pete, Its pretty straightforward if you have access to a car ramp, would hate to do it on jacks and axle stands your face will be a mixture of rust and under seal!! Whatever method your going to use, its definitely worth doing now, before holes start appearing! Step 1: Remove any plastic under panels/heatshields Step 2: Using a wire wheel and drill/wire brush remove any surface rust, for any bad rust patches use a rust converter (I used Hammerite rust remover on the rear brace mounts which worked pretty well) Step 3: Mask any items you dont want to spray i.e. heatshields, exhaust system, rubber mounts etc. Step 4: Spraying, I used 3M underseal with an airline and spray gun, I would recommend a mask and painters suit as the under seal gets everywhere (4 tins gave me 3-4 coats waiting 10-15mins between coats) Make sure to spray from different angles/directions to cover any awkward areas! Step 5: After leaving the final coat to dry remove any masking and re-fit any panels removed! You may need to clean any threads with a spare bolt to remove any under seal from them! JOB DONE! Awesome reply! Much appreciated Need to get the stuff gathered up and get to it. My mate has a ramp I can use some Sunday afternoon. Side question- I see you have plans for a rear diffuser, has this changed since fitting the ARK exhaust and cutting the bumper etc? Curious as to the possibilities and how they would look. Cheers! Pete No problem Pete! Regarding the rear diffuser, I haven't cut the rear bumper but have just tucked it using some self drilling screws to the aluminium crash brace above, so it's all reversible if I ever decide I want a rear diffuser, but I think I'm going to leave the bumper tuck as it is and instead get some rear spats http://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/GB/350Z_FRP_NISMO_STYLE_GLOSS_BLACK_REAR_SPATS/350SPAT-BL_.aspx
  13. Hi Pete, Its pretty straightforward if you have access to a car ramp, would hate to do it on jacks and axle stands your face will be a mixture of rust and under seal!! Whatever method your going to use, its definitely worth doing now, before holes start appearing! Step 1: Remove any plastic under panels/heatshields Step 2: Using a wire wheel and drill/wire brush remove any surface rust, for any bad rust patches use a rust converter (I used Hammerite rust remover on the rear brace mounts which worked pretty well) Step 3: Mask any items you dont want to spray i.e. heatshields, exhaust system, rubber mounts etc. Step 4: Spraying, I used 3M underseal with an airline and spray gun, I would recommend a mask and painters suit as the under seal gets everywhere (4 tins gave me 3-4 coats waiting 10-15mins between coats) Make sure to spray from different angles/directions to cover any awkward areas! Step 5: After leaving the final coat to dry remove any masking and re-fit any panels removed! You may need to clean any threads with a spare bolt to remove any under seal from them! JOB DONE!
  14. The plenum looks awesome in gloss black! I was going to do mine in black crinkle paint, but now ive seen it it in gloss black I think ive changed my mind!
  15. After a nice detailed clean, I had forgotten to take some pictures of the bumper tuck
  16. Exhaust & Ultra racing brace Following undersealing and side repeaters installed, It was time for the bit I was looking most forward to doing, the ARK Grip cat-back exhaust bought from Tarmac Sportz! Big Thank you to Chris! Nicely laid out ready to be installed All installed along with the ultra racing brace! I have never installed an after market exhaust before but the fitment and shear quality of this exhaust made it so simple! Took as much as 30mins to install! I dont know if this is the same with all true dual systems for the 350z but I had to remove the differential cover and a bracket near the fuel tank which I think acted as a heat shield so I decided to fabricate one out of some leftover heat shield from the m3 240z build! And the all important sound clip around 3-5k revs http://vid1305.photo...zpsg0y0vs1q.mp4 The smoke and moisture on the floor was because I had just jet washed it to remove some of the filler dust from the bodywork, damn stuff gets everywhere!
  17. Its been a busy week but finally got some of the tougher jobs out the way... 28.03.2016 Undersealed, ultra racing brace, 370z side repeaters! New Exhaust! Underseal Although the car wasn't that rusty underneath I decided to do it whilst I was replacing the exhaust to make sure everywhere was covered BEFORE: AFTER: 370z Side Repeaters Next was to remove the OEM side indicators and replace with OEM 370z side repeaters, I did some research and managed to find a template (I think it was from the US Z forum) which I only use to find the centre as I fitted mine slightly different... Step 1: Remove the original filler hiding the OEM recess (which coincidently is approximately the same size as the 370z side repeater ) Step 2: Using the template, I centre punched the centre, found a slightly oversized hole saw and cut a hole in my wing to fit the back side of the repeater Step 3: This step took the longest... but it had to be precise other wise the repeater would just fall out at any sign of bump! So it was a case of file some metal away, trial fit the repeater, file some metal away, trial fit the repeater etc. But after a couple of hours and countless trial fits the repeater fit perfectly! Also connected it to the original indicator wires via a 2-way multi plug connector to test if it worked! I obviously then done the other side http://vid1305.photo...zpsbqivgtzz.mp4 Step 4: Next was to weld in a plate to block the OEM indicator hole and start filling the panel. My Dad came up with an ingenious idea for filling the 370z repeater hole by using a roll of tape the exact size of the recess Step 5: After a couple of passes of the filler it was time for paint! Due to the car being wrapped in the future I wasn't looking for a professional paint finish, but I also didnt want it to stand out whilst I used it before it got wrapped. Grey primer Black base coat and lacquered Wet and dry sanded, polished and repeater installed!
  18. Didn't even think if that lol You can buy a dip guard (essently a piece of rubber lol), that goes over the filler and protects from any drips, I cant find any UK sellers and the plasti dip one is £12 + P+P
  19. 10/10 for effort! Door cards arn't to my taste... but looks like a quality job! Really like the diamond mesh vents though!
  20. So to catch up on the mods I have done so far... Before the real fun starts next week! 26/09/2015 Full engine and drivetrain service 14/11/2015 JDM Clear indicator light + LED bulbs 09.01.2016 New Carbon fibre slam/cooling panel and Tomei gear knob + alacantara gear gaitor 13.03.2016 Re-profiled steering wheel (courtesy of Jack @ Royal Steering Wheels) Black Nappa Leather Top/Bottom, Perforated Leather sides, White stitching and white '12 o'clock stripe' That is everything to date, however I have dedicated the whole of next week to work on the Z and get a lot of the items on my plan ticked off! So watch this space!!
  21. So I’ve had my Z for 4 months now and I absolutely love it! It’s a 2004 Black 350z GT Low mileage, Mint interior, Bodywork was mint considering its age (few door dents and stone chips in front bumper/bonnet) I have always loved the Z series, however initially not of 350 kind though… Z’s have been a part of my life since I was young due to my Dad owning and restoring this blue 240Z. However more recently he embarked on a slightly bigger and slightly different project, a BMW m3 super charged powered 240z This is when I really fell in love with Z’s. I was just finishing university and needed a little project to fill my spare time with before I got a job! So during my spare time I helped my Dad restore/build this beast and it got me thinking and excited to start my own project I don’t plan on anything as extreme as the M3 240z, but I have some cool plans and want a nice log of the project. If you’re bored and want to have a look at the m3 240z build, link is below: http://zclub.net/for...ead.php?t=20359 Introduction finished now onto my plans Exterior New Work Emotion CR Kiwami + centre caps Rear Bumper tuck G35 Rear Spats/Splash Guards 350z Tarmac Sportz FRP Side Diffusers Gloss Black door handles Modified DEPO black housing headlights 06+ LED Rear Lights Pearl/White Brake Calipers Boot Gas Struts Rear wiper delete Window tints Under seal 370z side repeaters Vehicle Wrap (Avery Gloss Pearl White) JDM Clear bumper light Interior LED bulbs Tablet install (maybe?) Re-profiled and trimmed steering wheel (courtesy of Jack @ Royal Steering Wheels) Gear knob Black seats Performance/Engine Bay Performance ARK Grip True Dual Exhaust Whiteline bushes Whiteline ARBs Ultra-Racing brace (to replace the rusted rear W brace) Panel filter Engine Bay Painted engine/battery/fluid covers, Carbon fibre slam panel
  22. Great mods and attention to detail so far Connor! I've also been looking for some reversing sensors for the 350z and there's 2 options as I see it... If you don't want to drill holes in the bumper or want it hidden try this http://www.parkingdynamics.co.uk/Universal-Sensors/Parking-Dynamics-PD1/Parking-Dynamics-PD1-Parking-Sensor I know someone installed them and they were happy with them and even made a guide http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/43935-easy-reverse-parking-sensors-parking-dynamics/ OR if you don't mind drilling your bumper (like me) go for the flush sensors you posted! which is what I will be doing soon so thanks
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