V1H

Yes, this picture any good?

I read it somewhere but forgot. Maybe @Adrian@TORQEN remembers. I just read the EFR Turbo Tech Brief and found that our wastegate actuators come in three canister sizes, simply called "low", "medium"and "high boost". If I remember correctly, my AAM TT kit came shipped with the "low boost" option where WG cracks open at <10psi. (Medium=10-15psi, High=20-30psi). I am so thrilled for your massive 610Nm!! Mine also makes 590Nm at 3krpm and it spun stock rubber in 3rd (or in 4th on damp road). So, yes, it is scary to test drive it hard Upgrade to Michelin PS4S a.s.a.p!

Thanks guys! Also, have just fitted Hawk Performance Ceramic Brake Pads [F: #HB601Z.626, R: #HB602Z.545], and bedding them in today. There'll be much less much-hated brake dust in the future (my main objective; the OEM bite was actually sufficient for my kind of driving)

Woohooo! I made it into the September 2018 issue of the BANZAI car magazine, pp. 58-62, and a poster on p. 56

I prob won't notice anything. If anything, the slight drop near rev limit on the dyno might go away as the AAm filters were running out of flow at around 500hp. But I wanna get a new tune in the future, anyway. I am currently rebuilding all my vac/boost lines that run from the Compressor housing to the BCSV, from there to the WGs, and lines running from the I/Plenum to the CRVs (Compressor Recirculation Valves = BorgWarner's BOV alternative). Those rubber/silicone lines are meters and meters long. I am routing them much shorter and replace much with S/S hard lines. Copper lines are for mock up test routing, Stainless Steel is for final vac hard lines.

I don't want to take sides or defend their design details, but as I understood Kay last Saturday, the wing mounted to the show car was still a prototype, i.e. shaped with lots of filler rather than by using the now available mould. He also told me he'd still rework the mounts. I am hopeful the varying gaps up top will also be addressed in the final product.

Cool! No doubt there’ll be demand for 350Z. Now we need 370Z coverage, too Love the racing inspired top-mount design. Don’t think there’s anything like it on the market.

Met the people @Rennen GT at JapFest Donington with Kay's head turning MR2 and drop-dead gorgeous rear wing. Kay designed and fabricates this (universal) rear wing in house here in Essex. When I told him about my strong interest in this wing he was keen to design a bespoke mounting solution for the 370Z (among other cars)! Kay@Rennen GT is looking for a volunteer 370Z that he could use as test vehicle for a couple of days for fitting purpose (with a considerable discount for the volunteer as reward). Any interested people from London or around Brentwood, Essex? I had immediately jumped in on the opportunity if it wasn't so terribly far away for me

I am going to go. Hope to see some more , the weather will be hot

I have now replaced the pair of K&N filters, that came with the AAM TT kit, with a pair of larger ones. See photo for comparison. According to K&N's filter size recommendation, I calculated the supplied filters would be a little undersized for 500+ bhp, while my new filters would have just enough air flow. They are a bit of a tight fit behind the driver side front bumper, though. Will post another photo when job done. #RD-0720 (left) vs. #RU-1840 (right) Fitting done. Here to see how the new filters reside in the outer corners of the front bumper, when viewed from the front wheel well. The driver side is a tight squeeze.

Interesting, I also only know the term 'MAP tuning'

Thanks and yes,nissanman312 has a good point there. Email Jez Horsham <jez@h-dev.co.uk>, my tuner. Maybe he can send you my tune as a base map for you?

This advert should hopefully create some

Have had a great time at the JapFest

Love it, would want to do it to mine too

After I fixed the oil line leak I successfully relocated the intake filters , which required me to reduce the windscreen washer reservoir to about half its size. I hacksawed it into pieces and plastic welded back together, using a low wattage soldering iron. With a glue gun I touched up the one or other tiny leak hole in the weld seam. BEFORE vs AFTER : The relocation freed up some space in the engine bay where I could mount my dual OCCs (white arrows). At the same time, I converted the stock PCV system to VTA (vent to atmosphere) - the practically best solution for F.I. Just in time ready for the JapFest. See you this Sunday!

No, I don't. Jez@H-Dev suggested a filter relocation as a future job but it was an O.K. solution at the time of install and for the time being. With the first summer coming along, my relocation gives me peace of mind and perhaps marginally better performance when the ambient temps will rise.

All the best for your build. I have now replaced the broken oil line with a new one, made up identically by H-Dev and free of charge. Thx Jez! But I don't really know why the leak occured, seems very odd. No rubbing, heat or other obvious stresses. While my car is jacked up I am also taking opportunity to relocate my intake filter out of the engine bay for a cooler charge. It takes me making up some custom tubing. On top of this, the relocation frees up precious space for me to finally install my dual Radium OCCs But I need to remove/modify the windshield washer fluid reservoir to make space for the driver side intake filter. Will post pictures soon.

The leak is coming from above it, better seen on this little video clip

No that only seems so. The clearance of the oil line is plenty all around. There is not the slightest sign of it ever being touched by anything. The leak is about 15cm further up the hose. Anyways, I have the hose halfway uninstalled. Gonna ship it to H-Dev for them to make me a copy and send it back to me. The installation is simple enough. It's just my notorious lack of time for anything but work and Neo Well, I'll fix it before the Japfest meet in May

Unfortunately an oil line for the external front-mounted oil cooler burst a large leak, 2 days ago. I rolled the car back into the garage to jack it up and remove the bumper/undertray to locate the fault. The car will be immobile for the time being It's a mysterious thing that such steel-braided line with extra protective sleeving would fail some 15cm away from the connector, at a seeminlgy random spot... Because it is way too expensive to haul the car to H-Dev (£300-400) I will have to try repair the leak myself; it's a crazy tight maze of hoses and pipes under there. Most difficult part will be sourcing a replacement pipe. Bought it in 2014 from Z1 Motorsports, USA. I've had troubling experiences with them in the past...

Thanks Adrian. Does the manufacturer provide a colour swatch of their anodised colours? Would be useful even just for lending (don't want a free one to keep)

Hi @Tinyflier, what colour are yours, AN05? @Adrian, could you provide me with a colour swatch? The online colour chart seems different to the photos, tricky to pick a colour. Regarding the templates, I can only find one for 356 but not 380, 405 mm. Thanks

Please see my Ebay listing for all photos and details. Collection in person preferred, but can ship if needed.

Yes, mine looks like yours, so I'd have then same plastic in the way.