veeg33
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Posts posted by veeg33
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5 hours ago, rabbitstew said:
I used "Supercoat polyurethane heavy duty high impact floor paint" which was £43.99 for 20 litre barrel of the stuff, so loads cheaper than what you`d get from DIY shops. Got it off the bay and you can get it any colour of the rainbow (nearly). I went for mid-grey which looks like same colour as keysers.
Prep wise, I basically swept the bare concrete floor, then pinched the wife's dyson and hoovered it all a few times to get rid of any dust ( & spiders, hahaha the wife wasnt happy!). Some people say you should seal the bare concrete, or do this or that, but I just rollered it on, nice thick coat. Gave the new garage extension a couple of coats and it looks a treat. No more dust, you can just sweep stuff up. So much easier to clean. I need to do the rest of my garage as that has old polyurethane paint on it which I put down 10 years back. That lasted really well over the years. It did chip in a couple of places, but its had a lot of heavy use with working on cars / bikes over that time.
Yeah, I've read about etching and using industrial polishing machine to prep it which puts me off doing it myself as renting the machine is well over £100 per day
. Thanks for the info. 
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Off topic but interested to know what you guys used for garage floor (brand) and what prep work is needed @Keyser @rabbitstew.
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Interesting.... One for @gangzoom to consider next maybe?
https://insideevs.com/news/365753/nissan-350z-tesla-motor-world-first/
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44 minutes ago, Reddx said:
Yeah I used that video too on monday - that's where I got so frustrated because heaven forbid my 4G actually work in Troon (oceanside town W. Scotland) so I was waiting ages for it to load and then I ultimately came to the realisation I just don't have the reset button and nothing is really working to fix it either.
I'll use that when the motors arrive. They messaged back and provided a link to the D+P set for 55~ quid so that's going to be a job for weekend or next week me. Not entirely sure when I'll find the time but seeing as the panel comes off in 2 minutes flat I'm sure everything after that is doable.I'll probably use masking tape and solicit the help of someone to just make sure it doesn't buckle as I swap it out. Should be quite straightforward once the panels are off. The white clips holding the cables are somewhat a mystery to me though. Tried separating them last time but they didn't really come loose so for the door switches I just left them in and undid the clamps holding the full switch-boxes in place. Any tips on that? Not sure if theres some pressure lever in them I need to maybe press in with a screwdriver or something?
I have been removing the door card pretty much every year prior to swapping the motor to clean the motor but it gave up eventually. Takes about 10-15mins to get to the motor.
I think I know which one you are on about. If I remember correctly, the new motor came with it. I think they are designed to be fitted once unless you can get your fingers behind to pinch and remove it. I think I cut it out with a wire cutter. If you are talking about the connectors harness to the switch, you'll need a flat head screwdriver to press a little tab whilst at the same time pulling it out.
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20 hours ago, Reddx said:
Perfect, just sent them a message asking if they can bundle up driver and passenger side.
Will have a go at fitting them sometime next week I assume provided the weather clears up again. Any recommendations on the installing front?They are pretty straight forward if you are good with tools. Nothing tricky, there are few 'how to' in the forum. I can't remember which one i used but instead of removing the window completely, I used masking tape to hold the window in fully closed position before i start removing bolts that are holding it. I find it safer compare to removing it and place it somewhere safe whilst you replace the motor. Or if you can get someone to hold it for you but he/she must not let go as it will drop into the door and get damaged or end up in pieces.
Similar procedure -->
https://nicoclub.com/archives/350z-diy-changing-the-window-motor.html
I think i used this one as guide to reset -->
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28 minutes ago, Reddx said:
Yeah honestly I think both motors have seen their prime a long time ago (as evident by both being completely off from where they should be).
Any recommendations for aftermarket ones?
Seen a couple for 18 quid on ebay and similarly seen some for 140 on torqen.. so yeah. Not sure what to go for really.
I went for this one for passenger side - Still going strong after 7 months. Just make sure you get the one with a reset button, which makes life easier.
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Mine started to drop automatically when I start to have issue with the window motor. First symptom was not dropping or going back up when i press the switch. Sometimes it drops, but refuse to go back up unless I manually pull it up by hand. I did try to refresh the motor by removing the housing and give it a quick clean with contact cleaner. Works OK for a while and issue starts coming up again. After 6-8 months, eventually the motor starts to get worst, dropping automatically especially when door is open. I have to manually pull the window back up to fully close before i shut the door to ensure fully sealed, but after awhile it will still drop by 0.5cm to 1cm creating a leak and I can hear it at around 60mph onwards.
Anyway, in the end, i swapped a new window motor (ebay specials) and everything is working as it should hence no more dropping automatically. Hence i guess your next step is to get a new motor installed and take it from there.
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4 hours ago, MONKEYSOCKS said:
Looking good mate, seen your z at lockwood before when mine was in for service, where did you get the body work done if you don't mind me asking?
Local bodyshop in Huddersfield called GW Bodyshop. Insurance company wants to send me to a bodyshop in Bradford but I told them to use my local bodyshop as this is just opposite my work.
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Zed is back from the bodyshop with a new front driver wing, refurb front driver wheel and full front bumper respray including the lip/splitter. They also polished the whole car
Collected my car last Friday but the gap between headlight and front bumper is big ish (noticeable), took it back in Monday morning to sort it out. Can't be any more happier!
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3 hours ago, avado said:
Did you buy some motor from ebay? can you send me a link, because there are too many fake motors on the market?
This is the seller i got it from -->
Don't bothered with the instruction that comes with it. And if you do remove the motor, i find it handy by using lots of masking tape to hold your current mirror in position. This should save you from removing it, placing it in a safe place and putting it back after you swapped the motor.
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18 hours ago, avado said:
Finally, I find some time to check these windows again.
I checked the door switches (nipples). They work perfectly.
Yes, my windows go fully up and down without issue. I made a full reset of the window by removing the door card. I'm 100% sure I did this correctly because first I reset the window to open only half and after that reset it to open fully. The problem is still there!
Is it possible too much dust to case this problem? I'm planning to open the door again and to clean all the crease there and after that to grease it again.
My question is how this window is dropping down? Is by gravity or the motor is running a bit backwards?
If everything is moving as they should, i think the mechanism is OK but no harm greasing it again.
I'm pretty sure the motor drives the window up and down, not down by gravity.
IMO, i would change the motor as my next step. £25 ish from Ebay specials. Make sure you get one with a reset button on the motor. Plenty on sale without the button
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Get a proper code reader (Consult or similar) when you have all them lighted up and see what fault code. Mine came up with something like brake sensor or something many year ago. I did all the checks above myself (brake switch, fluid level, abs sensors, etc) but nothing solve it. Ended up replacing the ABS module/actuator and issue goes away. I got it from trader here, pre-owned loved 2nd hand actuator.
if you need it.
Edit: Mine were faulty at around 82k
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Give him a ring, I think Ewen is not so active on forum these days.
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5 hours ago, Keyser said:
That's no ordinary oil drum that's an incinerator
Exterminate........!!
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The oil drum needs a refurb --> another side project
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Only give him 1 word response to all his questions and silent treatment. He'll soon realise you and your partner is not up for a chat, he'll get bored and will find someone else for a chat.
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^^ as above, plenty of good deals bargain on your local Facebook market place if you use Facebook, or if don't use Facebook, Shpock is the other good one.
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Many congratulations!! Life changing for sure =)
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Told my insurance my exhaust is full of rust, changed it to stainless Invidia Gemini. Change noted and no charge. Job done
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16 hours ago, gangzoom said:
Once committed the mortgage company has it in their self interest to keep things going, that's very different from taking on a new customer with changing risk profile.
If you were lending a complete stranger £1000, and the day before handing over the cash they told you they have lost their job but its OK because they have another one lined up, would you just shrug your shoulders take their word for it and proceed as planned?
Mortgage companies like to know the risks, been made redundant and than having to change jobs by definition risky, at the very least there is going to be a reassessment.
A 5% deposit must also mean to the mortgage company the risks are already high.
Really difficult situation to be in, if things are as tight as thinking about putting bills on the credit card than backing out of the house (for now) probably is a good idea regardless of mortgage conditions. But if its just an case of change in job/role which lots of people go through all the time with no actual risk to income than its a different matter. But how a mortgage company will judge the risk may be much stricter than how most of us view job security, the only way I suppose your know is if you tell them.
Horrible situation to be in, though I know what I would do if I was 100% certain of secure income stream, and I wouldn't be stressed at all - not beyond the normal house buying stress.
I think you don't get the point here. Regardless of new customer or existing customer, the risk is there and they are both equal. No one can guarantee an existing customer will meet their monthly payment. I'm not borrowing £1000 to a stranger, I've done all my checks in advance before i pass the money out, just like a lender would do. If the 'stranger' can proof they can afford to make the repayment, I can't find a reason why I won't honour the offer for a loan. Same goes to any lender. Equally, if a person looses their job at any point of the mortgage contract, I'm sure the bank will ask for evidence if he/she can still pay. If they can't proof a new job, i'm sure the bank will ask for any funds/savings remaining and how long will it last and worst case will repossession his/her house. They are a business, not charity after all hence as long as you can show your affordability, you'll be fine.
As OP said, he's going with help to buy, hence only 75% mortgage rather than 95% mortgage. It is not at high risk as you stated.
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Try see it from other perspective - You and your partner already moved into your new property, both of you have started paying the repayment monthly, your partner has been made redundant. You inform your lender, your partner has another job lined up, show them the offer letter with new higher salary, show them the redundancy letter along with redundancy payment (if any). 100% sure they won't stop the lending and kick both of you out the house. You and your partner have everything to proof you guys can afford the repayment, I won't be worried about it affecting your purchase if you tell them what's going on. Things changes every second and I'm sure they are flexible enough. If your partner doesn't have anything lined up, that would be a different case.
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You'll be fine unless you really really want that extra 5mm to fill your arches.
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Zed Shed Antics - Something will happen!
in Other Cars
Posted
Sounds familiar