veeg33

1 hour ago, fijifixit said:

Mine is the UK spec. When my car gets into programming mode, the hazards dont flash on the dash, I can hear the relay clicking and the hazard lights flash on the outside. I can see it in the reflection that they flash. The lock/unlock works from the switch on the drivers side door. Is there a fuse for the remote central locking in the car? I did install LED bulbs for the rear Number plate lights, however, I was facing the same issues before I installed them. All the other electrics work just fine. I will disconnect the negative terminal on the battery for 15 mins and then try register the key again. Failing that I have no idea . I cant be doing the procedure wrong as i've tried it 20+ times with no luck!

When you say clicking, is that when you press the new fob to register after you are in programming mode? Or nothing actually happen when you are in programming mode even when you press the buttons on the fob? I'm trying to diagnose if you have a faulty receiver on your zed and I'm not sure if you can replace the receiver only.

20 hours ago, fijifixit said:

Hey dude. I got a get from zmanalex, but still no luck. I transferred the key blade, transponder and put a new battery in aswell. Still the same issue . I can get the car into programming mode as the hazards flash twice, but I don't get any response when I hold the unlock button on the key and press the lock button twice and then let go of the unlock button. From reading the procedure, the hazards are supposed to flash once to confirm its registered. I don't get the flash. If I finish the procedure by switching the car to the on position, the hazards flash twice again to exit programming mode. I've had 0 luck with it . I am currently unlocking the car manually with the key hole on the door. Any advice? Cheers

Sorry to hear that. I can see that it can be a pain. Yours JDM or UK? When I reprogram mine, the hazard didn't flash but I can hear the relay clicking. The other thing I can think of is maybe issue with your car electrical circuit rather than the fob itself. Maybe check if there is a fuse for the lock/unlock system? Might be worth going to a Nissan dealership if they can do a electrical reset on your zed. Should be pretty cheap using their machine/computer, plug in and press the reset on their computer. Unfortunately I don't think there is a pedal dance to reset the electricals. BTW, might not be related, did you replace any of your bulbs with LED? My zed went funny (electric seat adjustment stopped working, windows can be lowered but not up) once when I replaced some LED lights for interior. Hence try  disconnting your battery for few minutes and try reprogramming. Having said that, when my car goes funny, disconnecting the battery works for 5-10 mins where I can unwind my windows back but it went funny again after awhile. The reset sorted it but worth a try. Also check u have the radio code just incase you need it after you disconnect battery. Good luck. 

9 hours ago, HEADPHONES said:

Those 370z rims look sweet on a 350z.

 

I'll buy you a set of 370z rims in exchange for them LMGT4s  

39 minutes ago, fijifixit said:

Wow, honestly, you have no idea how much I appreciate your time and info along with @veeg33.

 

Thanks guys! Hopefully this key works when I transfer things over.  If not, ill just buy one off zman.

 

Ill keep this thread updated along with images etc if anyone else has this issue and struggles to figure it out.

No problem mate, just sharing what I know. I got mine from a 350z breaker when mine only came with 1 key when I purchased my zed 5 years ago and I don't feel comfortable with having only 1 as it will cost me a boom if I manage to loose my 1 and only key, they usually sell it along with the key barrel but I told the seller i just needed the key and he sell it to me for £20 delivered.

4 minutes ago, fijifixit said:

Would it work if I transferred the transponder over though if the replacement key has a transponder on the PCB? I would imagine they'd interfere no?

They are completely separate item. Transponder is just for immobiliser and the PCB is just to lock and unlock your zed.

Edit: The transponder is programmed specifically to you zed.  Having said that, a key programmer can erase all the data in the transponder and load new data to the transponder. You'll need special machine to program the transponder or copy from current key to a new key.

The PCB will work on any ZED to lock and unlock. This you can do it on your zed or any zed (UK, not sure about import)

46 minutes ago, fijifixit said:

Ahh, I didn't know about that! I just looked at the key I purchased and I cannot see the little black rectangular thing. Im presuming that's the transponder? My key has it inside.

 

Does that mean the key off eBay wont work? I cant seem to find any other keys. Anyone know where I can get one?

 

Cheers.

Just transfer the one from your original key and put in the one you purchased. Make sure you don't loose it. That's the one that will cost you the most if you loose it as your car won't start or will not drive far (not sure what will happen if the car didn't receive a signal from the transponder to mobilise the car).

Hello and welcome  

LPG converted sounds interesting.

56 minutes ago, fijifixit said:

Haha, i've been scouring the net going through every webpage trying to find a fix!. 

 

I tested the battery inside with a multimeter and it was reading 3v which I believe is correct. I bought a new CR2016 battery from BP and it still doesn't work.

 

Polarity is correct so Im very confused

 

I have tried all the various methods, door locked, unlocked, key out, door open etc. Nothing seems to work.

 

Could it be the actual key that is dead? The current one I have is:

SIEMENS VDO

5WK4 876/818

433MHz

Sounds like you may have a dead fob. You can buy a 2nd hand one from Ebay or check with @ZMANALEX if he has a 2nd hand fob available. Just transfer the key blade and a black rectangular block (the immobiliser) into the new fob than reprogram again. Before you do that, might be worth to check the circuit board for any battery leak that caused short circuit.

1 hour ago, fijifixit said:

Hi, 
I bought a Nissan 350z and it came with 2 keys. Once with the remote central locking and the other is just a plain valet key. The central locking works

from inside the car but not from the remote. Following the forums, I have tried to reprogram the key and get it to work with the car. I can successfully get the car into programming mode by toggling the key from the lock to the on position 6 times, after which the indicators flash twice. After that I hold the unlock button and press the lock button 3 times after which I let go of the unlock button on the key. According to the procedure, the indicators should flash once, showing that the key has been programmed. In my case nothing happens!. When i turn the key to the on position the indicators flash twice again showing that it has exited programming mode. Still, the key doesn't unlock remotely! Its driving me insane. Any ideas? Kind Regards, Ibrahim.

Holy thread revival.......4 year old

Silly question but have you checked the battery in your fob? Get new battery in and repeat the procedure.

If you going to have fishes in the pond.....try the inverted pond --> https://www.google.com/search?q=inverted+pond+tank&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=Iz3VPU344WNbmM%3A%2CMmUGaK-ALP-2cM%2C_&usg=AI4_-kT7NsBNn6r2DH-lRmK-OTj4eQR4dA&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiOguTI_ajfAhUF2KQKHazACvQQ9QEwAHoECAEQBA#imgrc=_&spf=1545122429521

Hello and welcome

10 hours ago, EzeePzee said:

I appreciate this is a very old thread, but presume the side diffusers haven’t changed since then....

Does anyone know how much lower these make the side of the car? Reason for ask is for getting a jack underneath - my car is already on coilovers and therefore a bit lower, I don’t want any additional height/grounding issues.

Thanks

Normal jack will not fit underneath, you'll need low profile jack or drive the car up a wooden plank. I had it fitted recently, my old jack is now redundant. Probably around 1½ inch less height from the ground. 

Hello and welcome

Depends what you fancy carrying around what type of photography you are doing. A basic DSLR with kit lens should be a good start, Nikon or Canon will be pretty much equal in performance. Main difference would be where the buttons are but if you are new to DSLR, don't think it matters as you'll learn how to use them from zero. The entry level DSLR kit usually come with 18-55mm lens which is OK but as soon as you are into it, you'll probably need a new lens and things can go expensive pretty quickly.

Another options is to get a 2nd entry level DSLR from Ebay and see if you like it. Entry level DSLR depreciate pretty quickly, for example, Nikon D5000 with 18-55mm lens for less than £200. I think this should do what you described in OP.

#11

Arrived on Tuesday, now just sat in my garage waiting to be fitted

Thanks guys!! I'm likely to go for the like for like Exedy + LUK DMF  

 Zed passed MOT without any advisory!! But starts to have early signs of clutch slipping =( hence need to edit my Christmas wish list. Will very likely go for a like for like replacement, Exedy clutch + LUK dual mass flywheel.

Just for my own record - Engine oil, diff oil, gear box oil + molyslip, disc + pads change at 85,800 miles.

Edit - Just checked my MOT history......I've only did around 1650 miles since last MOT. This is mainly wife was on maternity from Sept 2017 and I've been using her company car mainly  

I can recommend Invidia Gemini B), just had mine fitted at Tarmac Sportz HQ in Derby. Just a tiny bit louder than OEM but much deeper/solid tone. I'm still on original Cats. 

12 minutes ago, Jay84 said:

I had the same issue with mine, it wouldn't work for the 1st 20 mins or so, or it'd skip on the smoothest of roads. Its well worth a replacement HU. Radio function worked fine on mine, it was a CD thing. I never tried the tape deck

Tape deck works fine for me - I purchased a cassette adaptor to plug it into my mobile

I suspect when the previous owner put his zed for sale, he/she might have swapped the unit back to the original Bose without care? Maybe remove the head unit and check every connection, or the head unit itself is faulty which means a good excuse to get a new head unit

8 minutes ago, Bigjimg said:

Sounds like a slipping clutch to me.

 

Oh dear........parts + labour will be similar to a remap + parts

I think this started a few weeks before I change my exhaust. I felt it but wasn't sure. But after exhaust change, this seems to be getting more and more obvious hence I did some trial to confirm. I hope this is not related to the new exhaust, just purely coincidence that it happen at the same time.

Cruising at 20 mph, on 3rd gear. Put my foot down on the accelerator, without downshifting to 2nd. Engine RPM shoots up rapidly about 1000RPM to 1500RPM, then decreases about 500-700RPM and then slowly raises up again as the car accelerate.

Or sometimes when I shift to 2nd gear (low speed at around 15mph to 20mph), similar thing happened, shoots up rapidly and decrease 200-500RPM before continue to accelerate as per normal.

Will the pedal dance sort this out or maybe not? -->

Can't afford a remap now as just paid for a full exhaust system + W-brace + side diffusers. Before remap, I'll need to purchase more stuffs (HFC and plenum spacer) hence easily another £1k including remap

Interesting stuff guys...... I can see this is going to expensive. I like the ideal of motion sensor for doors. My house has alarm but not at the rear garden door. Will looks into this further, which I did earlier. The MiHouse I think by energinie, a hub to control everything and integration to Nest. I guess the possibility is endless with this technology, replacing all the switches and sockets with smart ones and have  few Alexa in the house. 

57 minutes ago, rabbitstew said:

I installed Hive in my house last year so I could keep an eye on how hot the wife has the heating whilst im at work.

 

Luckily I have a combi boiler and so literally there are just 4 wires to the hive - live, earth, boiler on, boiler off. Took me 5 mins to setup.

 

It is great though, I have had Samsung Smartthings for many years now and I can set a rule so when the wife leaves the house it turns the heating right down, then turns it back on when she gets home.

I've looked into Hive before I then moved to Nest after some research. I found out yesterday I have a S-Plan heating/hot water system (I think). And I like the idea of the Nest thermostat is wired to 12v rather than batteries. Hive have 3 devices whilst the Nest have only 2. For £40 more (Screwfix), I can have the LCD display turns on every time it senses movement. If I were to install it again, I would say 1 hour to 1 hour 30mins.

Pretty cool stuff really, this is my 1st smart device and I've been looking into other smart devices. I've just purchased a set of 3 wireless socket adaptors. Wanted to buy the Echo Dot too but delivery is Jan 2019 hence that has stopped me for being more lazy.....