Zalas

Eibach Front and Rear Adjustable Anti roll bars with White line drop links - £150 Collected Still available? Does "collected" mean they've already been collected?

Hi Rob, Did you have any update on that y-pipe sat in your garage? Thanks, Alastair.

Thanks to @ZMANALEX for the new pin, and Torqen for the brace and brackets. Question: Removing the outermost nuts from the brace seems to be wanting to drop the ENTIRE subframe. Can I use a strategically placed jack on the subframe to support it and stop it from dropping too much? I'm mildly concerned about the alignment to the diff etc. Is there any way to reduce the pressure on the jack? Would removing the road springs on the rear help? I really want to avoid dropping the subframe as it's seemingly a total ballache. The FSM steps for subframe are: Removal and Installation AES000BV REMOVAL 1. Remove tire with power tool. 2. Remove brake caliper with power tool. Hang it in a place where it will not interfere with work. Refer to BR38, "REAR DISC BRAKE (AD14VE TYPE)" , BR-44, "REAR DISC BRAKE (OPB13VB TYPE)" . NOTE: Avoid depressing brake pedal while brake caliper is removed. 3. Remove rear exhaust tube. Refer to EX-3, "EXHAUST SYSTEM" . 4. Remove stabilizer bar. Refer to RSU-16, "STABILIZER BAR" . 5. Remove drive shaft. Refer to RAX-10, "REAR DRIVE SHAFT" . 6. Remove final drive. Refer to RFD-10, "REAR FINAL DRIVE ASSEMBLY" . 7. Separate the attachment between parking brake cable and vehicle and rear suspension member. Refer to PB-3, "PARKING BRAKE CONTROL" . 8. Remove rear lower link and coil spring. Refer to RSU-15, "REAR LOWER LINK & COIL SPRING" . 9. Remove fixing bolt in lower side of shock absorber. 10. Set jack under rear suspension member. 11. Remove fixing bolts and nuts of tunnel stay and member stay from vehicle. 12. Remove fixing bolts and nuts of rear pin stay and then remove rear pin stay from vehicle. 13. Slowly lowering jack, then remove rear suspension member, suspension arm, radius rod, front lower link and axle from vehicle as a unit. 14. Remove fixing bolts and nuts, then remove suspension arm, front lower link, radius rod from rear suspension member I need to do all those just to get to step 12 Surely that can't be right for simply replacing the pin? A.

From a related link via google I think the call about 'towing point' is almost correct: Thanks for the tip, Jason. Since posting my original message, I discovered that hook. But, it's not actually a tow hook. It's used to tie the car down for transport. It will bend if a significant side load is put on it, although it is stout enough to use when pulling the car straight back. That's what I'm told, anyway. Both sound plausible - either way it's going to come off for strip and paint rather than replace... That's what AA is for Al,

Bah, pin stay. Subframe? Not that important then 😂😂

Welcome along! As an aside - keep those floormats safe - those with the 'z' on are like gold-dust. Have mine squirreled away and have a set of generic replacements... A

Thanks for the update, Alex. Sticking with OEM as per your DM recommendation.

Trying to identify a couple of parts for the back of the Zed that have seen better days. Have tracked down the exhaust brackets from Torqen but struggling to identify the other bits: This bracket: seemingly not supporting anything? And this brace? Can't really see what it's doing... crusty! It's a long ££ road ahead I feel.

Gotta be better than the split that's in my JDM exhaust. Photos sound great, please.

Looking for y-pipe to go with existing Cobra y-pipe back system. Either Cobra (ideally) or other alternative, used or new.

Hi Coz, thread jump... are the Ultra racing designed to replace the OEM brace or (as was called out in separate threads) designed to be used as-well-as/in addition to OEM?

Trying to work out if I can justify the Stag, the Zed, the beemer and a runaround... as well as my motorbike; the stag is the constant as it's got sentimental value for t'other half otherwise that would have been gone.... Really don't want to lose the Zed! On a related note looked at a CLK this weekend over in Kings Langley (TradeLink / Prestige and Performance, behind JZM Porsche) -- it's like a zed halfway house: must have had 8-10 zeds there including a gorgeous azure blue.

you and me both ;-) Was interesting - the packs that came off had no bubbling or any other issues and had good resistance on the multimeter.... I can only imagine it was a "dodgy connection" within the gubbins of the big black square bit on top...

Hi, Well put in a nice new set of coils (thanks, Ewen!) and started her up - she was running on all 6 but not very smoothly so I performed the various sensor resets and hey presto! Nice and smooth now with no engine warning light (it turned itself off for some reason)... took her on a nice long run in to London to aquire another steed for my fleet (2006 330d SE) as the Zeds time is unfortunately limited due to a "family expansion"...

Well Zed is back up and running after sparks and coils on up for a meet.... Now off to see Horsham for a cam cover replacement in a few weeks!

I've been working in Basingstoke for the past year on and off at the eni building on basing view Seen quite a few Zeds around there when I used to work in Viables for Sony (last year)... Wife takes the zed to the car park every day (well she used to up till May): there was always a zed or two that parked next to her is that anyone here? A.

Currently living with in-laws near Sunningdale (actually in the great park doncha know!) but only have 5 cyls for the immediate future

That's my thought too - unless it's gushing out so much that it fired after I drained it but then filled up between me switching off after changing plugs and me starting it a few hours later... Am willing to travel (mbike) for code reader if one isn't near by... A.

Hi, living with my in-laws at the moment and my zed is poorly! As I'm potentially going to have to trailer the car to be fixed I was wondering whether anyone had a JODB code reader I could borrow for a day or so to try to diagnose what the fault is, and whether it is that there is "too much oil in the spark well for it to fire"... It started from a very bad misfire resulting in limp-home-mode and a transport back from Bournemouth to Sunningdale where it's currently languishing. I swapped the sparks over this weekend and visually inspected the coil packs -- there was oil in the spark well of cyl 6 (a lot!) but no bubbling of the coil pack so already contacted Horsham to get a quote for cam cover repair (don't really fancy stripping that much down myself!). After changing the sparks (and probably buggering my cat in the process as the oil went in to the cylinder and there was a *lot* of smoke) it started fine so I thought it was job done. However, starting for a test drive a few hours later resulted in limp-home and rough-running-on-5 straight away Thanks in advance, Al.

Hello from Windsor, Andover and Bournemouth! I am currently the proud owner of a JDM which will be having to go to a good home soon ... if nothing comes along then mine is in vgc condition externally, good internally and less than 5k!

count me in !! Will make a decision shortly when at home. Presuming this will fit the JDM without an issue? 350z resonated please!

Bounce! Are these still available? Cheers, Al.