Zalas

Mines a JDM so notoriously lack of undersealing. My previous attempt with Dynax and the odd bit of stone chip … couldn’t get above the rear subframe though.

I did mine, too, during my refurb. Pointless, but without it it’s not as satisfying. what’s the black under your pin and across the wider pan area? Just paint or some kind of stone chip/lanoguard? I’m thinking of dropping my rear subframe as the bits under the mounts are looking really crusty. A

and still for sale. Any offers considered as they’re just in the way

A good day, mine passed too! First since sep 2023. Took it out for a blast around the Andover villages, boy I’ve missed it.

Dang just missed this (Friday). Just up the road, too.

Mention @ZMANALEX he might be able to help

Looking good! Making me have the urge to finish mine off that’s so far been missing for the last eight weeks… rad change is needed but apart from that it’s good to go. Apart from not oovkng for three years

Bump! Many months later still here

Can still trim those tabs down on the metal bracket to fit bigger batteries

2k4 JDM owner here, just replaced. If you remove the tabs on the battery tray and trim the top of the battery clamp bar then you can fit some biggies! 630 cca plus 70AH S4026 Bosch Heavy Duty 068 Car Van Battery - 12V 70Ah trimmed base: battery nice snug fit and nicely nested in the car also take the time to derust and clean the battery scuttle and the drain beneath the ECU!

Looking good! Massive difference. How were the bushes in the banana arms? It's a never ending saga isn't it - I started with that brace ended up replacing the bearings, outer/inner rods, multiple patches of rusted component and still not done

Spotted a black zed at Weyhill petrol station, Andover. I was walking in to get milk and slyly admired from afar.

Nice work! What brand were they? Irwin? Normally I end up snapping the bolt shaft before rounding the head Chinesium much? Mine's been on axle stands for the last three weeks waiting for the droplinks to be adjusted under load and the outer tierods tightened ... give it another 2 months and I might get around to it X5 arms and e92 subframes are first jobs. Sad.

still available. Open to offers.

Would heatgun work better? Or does it need to be universally heated.

Looks good, likewise to the cautious wrecking. I've got my MOT booked for next week. Hopefully it passes!

bump, still available.

Hydrate80 rather than Kurust. Does great on classic car tests and recommended lots on detailing-world and other forums, and my own experience. Are there any drains around there that could have broken or come loose? Not got a 'vert but had similar on various cars incl. X5 with a busted sunroof drain.

Good to see and hear it's still going - it's nice that lineage like this can continue to be found and exist!

Nice! How did you do the 'rebuild' clean - compressed air and qtips?

Replaced two years ago using ones from zmanalex - had to get a shop to press the bearings on and pull the old off but they're working really well. Replacing the fronts at the moment.

Front Left and Right set of suspension corners - upper arms, lower arms, knuckle and hub/bearings. Also contains speed sensor and plastic cap. Bushes will need replacing on some of the arms. £200 per side, £350 for the pair. Postage £25 I ordered these from zmanalex but they proved unneccessary as I was able to get out my lower ball joint from the knuckle.

Awesome news! Hoping to put mine in a couple weeks once bits from Alex and Coz have arrived.

Fingers crossed!! Highly.recomment the Bilt Hamber Dynax UB/UC for underneath and the S50 for cavities. I'll send some pics tonight of how my arches and underneath look as I have my knuckles and tie rods off at the moment.

Looking good, reminisent of the work I'm doing on mine. Taps for the threads are a godsend - so often they're fine threads though so watch out. Unfortunately all the work I got done in this thread ( ) has mostly started to get rust inside again and rust stains leak out. Dynax S50 to the rescue