karlh

Check out this link from Autoblog.com: https://www.autoblog.com/2018/02/04/nissan-370zki-quick-spin-review-89453929342/

Better yet, stop when in Diagnostic Test Mode II and see if any faults are reported there.

Simply going through the ignition key cycle to extinguish the light doesn't solve the underlying problem. I recommend downloading the US service manual for your model year and going through the diagnostic steps in the srs.pdf section. This will tell you what part of the system is at fault. While US spec cars are not identical to yours, I believe the airbag system is.

I'm not sure how UK cars are configured, but US cars have tandem master cylinders (two inlets, two outlets) for two channel braking. Your pictures show single channel master cylinders from both Tilton and Wilwood. Is this correct?

Too bad. It's a nice feature to have on a hot day.

The driver side door unlocks both mechanically and electrically while the passenger door only unlocks electrically. The passenger door unlocks the second time you turn the key to the unlock position within 5 seconds. I'm assuming you tried this when you first discovered the problem. Both side windows should lower if you hold down the unlock button on the remote fob or hold the key in the door lock to the unlocked position. I hope you tried that before smashing the window.

Correct. There are two switches on the brake pedal assembly. One is normally open and closes when you depress the brake pedal. This turns on the brake lights. The second switch is normally closed and opens when the pedal is depressed. This disconnects the cruise control. By the way, does your third brake light work?

Wiring diagram for what - year, trim level, specific systems?

In the USA Nissan sells a kit to disable the passenger airbag. It's pricey (over $500 US), and you need to get a form from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration to complete the purchase. Essentially the kit contains two resistors and a key-operated switch that splices into the airbag harness. When the key switch is turned, the airbag is switched out and the resistors are switched in, keeping the system from turning on the airbag warning light.

The yellow metals in your gearbox include the synchros. Using GL5 oils will damage them and make shifting difficult and noisy.

I'm not sure about your cars, but in US spec cars the entire airbag system can be disabled by removing fuse 13 on the fuse block by the kick panel.

The fans are controlled by two relays on the IPDM E/R, located by the battery. Both fans run together, either at low speed or high speed. The ECU signals fan operation over the CAN bus based on several parameters. These include vehicle speed, coolant temperature, air conditioner on or off, air conditioner refrigerant pressure, and engine running status. If the air conditioning is on and the refrigerant pressure is high, the fans run at high speed regardless of coolant temperature or vehicle speed. If the pressure is a bit lower the fans may be off or run at low or high speed, depending on coolant temperature or vehicle speed. If the air conditioning is off the fans should run at low speed when the coolant temperature reaches 98C, and at high speed when the coolant reaches 100C.

Here's an image that explains the siphon operation:

When you fill the tank, fuel initially goes into the side of the tank nearest the filler. When the level in that side rises above the hump, fuel goes into both sides of the tank. During operation, the fuel pump draws fuel from only one side of the tank. However, part of the output of the pump flows through a jet nozzle connected to a siphon tube. The siphon tube draws fuel from the opposite side of the tank.

I totally agree that a full diagnostic is the best way to go. The Service Manual describes the conditions that cause this fault to be recorded as: a. The output voltage computed by ECM from the A/F sensor 1 signal is shifted to the lean side for a specified period, or b. The output voltage computed by ECM from the A/F sensor 1 signal is shifted to the rich side for a specified period. The specified period is not defined. Possible causes listed in the manual are a bad sensor or sensor heater, excessively low or high fuel pressure, a bad injector, or an intake air leak. I suspect the sensor is the faulty part here.

Not sure about the fix. You need to check the Service Manual.

The light is flashing the code P2A03. The 11 flashes indicates an A. Earlier cars didn't use letters in the DTCs, so that may be why some are confused. P2A03 is an air/fuel sensor 1 (bank 2) fault.

Try Nissan DataScan - http://home.exetel.com.au/nds/NDSII/index.php?content=home

If all you're doing is resetting the CEL, you'll get nowhere. If done correctly, the pedal dance will give you the DTC so you can troubleshoot the fault.

It looks like you did the procedure properly. You get 10 slow flashes only if the thousands digit of the fault code is a zero. From your second video it looks like you have at least 2 codes - P1147 and P1167. You need to let the flashing proceed long enough so the sequence repeats itself. That way you know you have seen all the codes. Both your codes deal with the heated O2 sensors mounted in the catalytic converters. P1147 is for bank 1 and P1167 for bank 2. The codes indicate that these sensors are not reaching their required maximum output voltages.

The pedal dance checks the ECU and displays only engine faults. The airbag diagnostic mode is entered through a sequence of ignition ON - OFF steps, no pedals required.

The flash pattern you see (3 seconds ON, 2 seconds OFF) while in the diagnostic mode means that no faults are present, but that the diagnostic memory has not been erased. To erase the memory while in the diagnostic mode, simply turn the ignition key OFF, then ON again.

Hi Karlh, I just double checked and these readings are from the sensors before the cat (I looked at the PIDs) After reading your reply I obtained a scan tool and checked my 2005 Z. I got the same readings that you did; approximately 0.3 V for bank 1 and 0.6 V for bank 2. It appears that Nissan is using PID $1B to report these values. PID $1B is designed for older, narrow-band O2 sensors, and reports voltages between 0 V and 1.275 V. The pre-cat sensors in our cars are wide-band, and output approximately 1.5 V at lambda = 1. If our readings are the true values then both banks, and especially bank 1, are running very rich. I suspect Nissan has scaled the wide-band readings to fit within the narrow-band range and that 0.3 V and 0.6 V represent lambda = 1 for banks 1 and 2 respectively. Unfortunately, I cannot find anything in the Service Manual to confirm this.

Luke0549, I'm not sure how cars in the UK come equipped, but here in the US some have just ABS, some have ABS and traction control (TCS), and some have ABS and stability control (VDC). On cars with VDC, the steering wheel sensor or brake fluid level can indeed be problems, but on cars with TCS these are not part of the system. Which is yours?

Are you sure you're measuring the voltage of the air-fuel sensor located before the cats? Those are wide-band sensors, and output a voltage of approximately 1.5 volts at lambda = 1. The voltages you show look like a narrow-band sensor, the kind located after cat 1.