blazemaguire

Thanks all. I don't think the cars ever been molested. I'm 3rd owner and it was completely stock when I got it. I've only added a new stereo and reversing camera. I've now realised it only does it if Ive left the rear wiper switch in the on position when I park up and hit hadn't quite parked itself before turning the ignition off. Can anyone else test if there's does the same thing in the same situation. Of all the problems you could have, I guess it's quite a minor one!

Anyone elses 350 ever done this? Lately, at random, when I unlock the car with the remote the rear wiper does a little wiggle every time I push the button?! It's like it's wagging it's tail for me when I come out to take it for a drive. Bizarre. But seriously, is this just me its happened to? Worried the electrical module that does the wipers might be playing up... Or have I discovered a hidden bug (feature?!) in Nissan's coding.

Edit. I also wanted to polish and recon the headlights as well... so it was a two birds with one stone job.. but I'm positive you can't change the main bulbs through the engine bay.. unless yours is a HR and it's somehow different to the DE

I didn't realize you could get at it through the engine bay. I had the front bumper off and the light out to change the sidelight bulb... though I know you can also go in through the wheel arch. Perhaps you can take the wheel off and pull back the arch liner to attack it from behind if your having trouble?

If you're not scared by the idea,you can tear down the old units and file the brushes... people think the brushes wear away, in my experience When mine stopped it was because the carbon brushes for the motors had somehow jammed in their sprung sliders. I filed the excess material of the brushes and put it back together and the oem fan is still going strong 20k after doing it.

The alarm siren I think.

Had you considered moulding them? I.e 3d print the opposite/negative shape ( a mould).. this you could smooth as strength of the mould is not crucial. Then use a silicone based moulding agent poured in to the cavity. Would be quicker to mass produce then as well if you made the mould in two parts... also, silicone based parts might be more resilient in an engine evironment and wouldn't have layers to de laminate.

I'm sure it was doing it. You were probably not hearing it due to the ear to ear grin you get driving it blocking your ear holes up.

It's a relay clicking on. I.e a magnet activated switch that sends the leccy to your heated rear window safely when you push the button. Perfectly normal. It's when it doesn't click that you've got a problem.

There is some chemical that will smooth PLA. Tetrahydrafluoron, but I can't seem to find anywhere to buy in the UK, Americans seem to be able to get it somehow. Either way, it seems a lot nastier than acetone, which is actually not too dangerous in the sense the body produces it naturally... still gives you a good headache though, ask me how I know! PLA would probably soften too much in a warm engine bay on a hot day once the car is stopped. Getting my geek on here I know! Haven't used my 3d printer for the zed yet, but I did print a replacement seat lever for my POS zafira runabout! Very satisfying making something from nothing!

Good effort. Screw sanding it though, if you're using ABS, try acetone vapour smoothing. Just need a hot plate, some acetone (nail polish remover) and a glass beaker. Boil the acetone and the vapour cloud deposits and smooth out all the wrinkles.

Deffo use the spring to sense which bearing. You can't hear it normally, but you could feel the roughness when spinning the wheel and holding the spring. Very different to the side that didn't have the duff bearing. And by the way, I brought a cheap £50 eBay wheel bearing. It's fine so far, so don't believe everyone when they say you need to buy expensive ones or OEM

I'm also a D@T teacher! (We're rare beasts in this climate) Hit me up with a pm if you want some advice. I built and designed my own 3d printer as I'm a nerd, but at school I researched and ran with the Up plus 2. Very good quality prints and quiet, easy to use... But TBH the cheap 3d printer kits are now most as good, just require a bit more setup initially and a bit more maintenance. Where in the country are you?

And to add, sorry, i still haven't replaced my locking nuts so my spare bolts are still on the car. Otherwise I'd have lent you them.

My dealer. The one in aldershot, (west way Nissan...not far from you in working.) took mine off for free. They had a full set of master keys. I brought the guy some beers as thanks. Happened to me last month, so I'm sure he still works there. Young lad, John, likes Leffe beer! Luckily o had the 4 non locking nuts left in the boot, otherwise it was stupid money for four bolts which they've course had to order. Just a thought?

I should add... I came from the world of classic minis before the zed. I'm used to replacing crap every few thousand miles! Say what you like about Minis but they teach you your way around a spanner...

For what it's worth, I've just fitted a cheap, 55 quid eBay job. Only done a few miles so far, but fit and perceived quality seem good. To be honest, if a company can build the hub, studs, carrier and insert the bearing (which is likely from another firm anyway) to the tolerance that fits in the suspension arm hole. I can't see what they could really have cut back on?! It takes a certain level of quality just to make the part, thus I'm pretty confident it will last. Probably not as long as OEM, but I'm with the OP. For the 1hour it took to fit, I'd rather replace four times as often and pocket the initial savings.

Fixed. If it helps others, it was the front NS wheel bearing. Diagnosed by feeling for different vibrations in the coil springs with wheels off ground. I've never had a wheel bearing sound like that before, but after taking it off, it was clear water had got in the back and the bearing was corroded with rust and knackered seals.

I think you'll struggle to translate. The readings are probably just ratios that mean something to a computer program only, I.e the ECU knows to adjust it's outputs of air flow for instance to stay between a certain ratio, say 1.3 to 2.4. This will have a value that the original Nissan engineers could translate, but you're just seeing the raw data the cars sensors create.... I.e you're just seeing the numbers the computer gets, rather than something that's useful. The important thing is it stays within the range / ratios for each parameter, rather than what it translates. (Control loops..). I teach this sort of stuff for a living.

Sorry mods... tried to correct spelling and it seems to have posted it three times?!

Also, if you're the second owner, ita possible previous owner may have tweaked the pedal travel adjustment (done lying on your back in the footwell) I did this initially to improve the bite point which I always found too high, it worked fine most of the time, but like you, when the car got hot after standing still in traffic it would get sticky and have to be pulled up. Readjusted it back after that and never got the issue back... just something else to consider. Btw, it's an add to adjust it from the wheel well... much swearing!

Cheers. Just tried that going home, it still throbs turning either way, though in a less irritating way (if that's an acceptable measure) when turning left on a long turn. If driving straight ahead and turning the wheel ever so slightly with some left pressure, this alleviates the noise somewhat.

Hey all, getting peeved. Getting a womp,womp noise coming from the car. As the z is so noisy anyway it's hard to pinpoint if it's front or rear, let alone which side. All I know is it is proportional to wheel speed and doesn't seem to transmit Any vibration through the steering wheel. I had a brand new set of pirelli p zero fitted all round about 800 miles ago. One of the small balancing weights had come off at some point, so got quick fit (who supplied) to rebalance and check all four, but noise still remains. In the same time frame, I DIY replaced front pads... about 300 miles after the tires. This is when I remember the noise really started. I then got some new discs from z man Alex (great price BTW!) for the front as I noticed the old ones were badly lipped and mis wearing the new pads, thought this might be the issue, but no, Noise is still occurring. I've had all four corners off the ground, can't detect any play or obvious noise from wheel bearings. With pads out on the front, the offside has a slight tick noise when spun. The rear bearings are harder to guess as they're slowed by being attached to the drive shafts but I can't feel any play in them. Any better way to check rears? Any other theories? It's driving me crazy and ruing the car for me at the moment. The Cars is a 55 plate DE, with only 63k on the clock... seems a bit low mileage in my experience to be wheel bearings, and odd that it came on with changing tyres / brakes. Could a single small mass missing have unbalanced the tyre enough to have taken the wheel bearing out? My best guess is it's coming from front OS, but I'm struggling to pin point it. Anyone got any methods of telling for sure before I start buying bearings. I'm handy with a spanner, so I'll be doing it myself. Just short on funds after having taken 2 weeks paternity leave this month! (Still hanging on to the zed though, just...) Thanks Rob

Cheers guys. I welded it up (again) to get me on the road, not sure how long it will last. Looks like eventually I'm going to have to cut/grind it off to fit a new system as the bolts are rusted solid and rounded off. Not sure I can stretch to £110 for a 2nd hand item that I can't see first HAMLNJ. If you let me know what you're looking at for yours t21moh, and if you're near me so I could check it out first I might be interested. Might save up for a miltek myself and save future agro, so a bit torn now on what to do.

as per title (for 350 mod edit). Got the blow from usual place, already welded up and I don't think it will take another fixerup job! Need a GOOD condition standard exhaust setup, cat back. willing to travel about 20 miles from Guildford/Surrey/hangs border area. I'm near Aldershot Hants.