z350convert

Ok well that wasn't too bad and the seat doesn't squeak any more. I found a very good thread that described a metalic squeak like mine that comes from side to side play in the rod going across the seat under the front. It is for the raising and lowering of the cushion. I shimmed out the gap and got rid of the side to side play and squeak is no more. The passenger seat seems ok, probably as it gets far less wear. Now I have got rid of that i can now hear all the other ones. So as soon as it stops blowing a gale and lashing with rain I am going to remove the lower dash on the passenger side and the centre console and put some foam edge tape on all the plastic to plastic and metal contact points. Don't fancy touching the section with the airbag so will leave well alone in case I find myself sitting on the neighbors roof. The winter squeakfest continues

Yes, good advice. Just re-set the warning lights with the switch on/off routine.

Have metal against metal type mouse squeak coming from driver seat base. Have put traps down but no rodents yet. Have checked the obvious and the legs are firmly bolted down to floor. I can generate the squeak by rocking the seat squab so it seams to be the way the cushion is in touch with the frame rather than the frame itself. Before I take the whole seat out tomorrow would like to check with the experts... I see three electrical couplings and assume just disconnect with ignition off and I won't do any harm??? How does the seat cushion come off?. Could try that first because I think it's the seat of the problem (techy joke there) Is the weight of the seat likely to give a 69 year old a hernia? Any input would be appreciated Many thanks

Thumbs up for Cougar Store . Mitz very helpful with advice and quick to deliver new box and resonated mid pipe. So I have a standard 2003 car with a Cobra back box and midpipe matched to "Roadtrips" 2007 Y pipe. Result, much deeper sound, very quiet on idle and nice crisp raw as power is applied from about 2500 rpm. All went on quite easily once nasty rusted bolts on the cat removed, nothing broken. Took just over 2 hours with a local mechanic. Car possibly a bit more torquey now but I might be imagining that. Good result and very pleased. Abbey Motorsport in Oxted also very obliging Neil

Insurance must be a nightmare. I wonder if customers have to sign a disclaimer at the beginning. It's such a good idea and quite common in the U.S. apparently. Having gone over the top on ramps once I loathe the process of doing it on the drive.

To those of us who like getting our hands dirty, has anyone tried any garages that rent out tools and car lift facilities. Sounds like a brilliant idea, so much better than grovelling around on your back in the rain dark and grot. Seems to costs about £20 per hour from what I can see. Nothing much round me (Surrey/Kent) but I've seen these.... Www.rampandwrench.co.uk. Coventry Www.motorhoist.co.uk. West Midlands Www.pitstartgarage.com. Acton Smiths Auto Centre. Leeds Www.uspanner.co.uk. Southend on Sea Vehicle Ramp Hire. Birmingham Www.ituned.co.uk. Walton

Oxted is in Surrey but I am just on the border. Abbey Motorsort seem happy to do it for me but I will look into Kaizer Motors as well. Thanks

Thanks, they are quite near me and i thought they were down in Maidstone.

My God is that what a pint of beer costs these days. Shows how long it is since I got a round in. Anyway, on topic, The extra road tax is significant when you are on a limited budged split over mortgage, family, kiddies etc etc. that's why I bought a 2003 car. But if you didn't realise the tax varied you didn't do your home work.

Can anyone recommend a good man on 350s in the Surrey/Kent area who would be happy to fit Cobra system I would provide and an acquired HR Y pipe to my 2003 bog standard GT preferably someone who has done lots of them and won't charge me like a wounded rhino. Needs to be a registered mechanic or something for the purpose of guarantee. No rush, haven't got it yet. Thanks

Did the sump leak oil by any chance? Mine was rusted through and dripping oil. When I took it off I could press a finger right through so if that had given way on a journey the oil would have pumped through in a few seconds.

Thanks for the offer. Could you let me know if it is in really good shape and how much you want for it? I'm in the South, near Bromley. Many thanks

Z Veteran Yes you are right, the price doesn't include the Y pipe...file:///Users/neilcollins/Desktop/Milltek%20350z%20Exhaust%20Systems%20|%20Tarmac%20Sportz.html, but if it's a good make it's still a good deal. Y pipes do go for £110 ish on ebay, some with 2.5 inch outlet and some 3. Thanks again

Thanks for the help. Like the Scorpion sound but pretty pricy still with the Y pipe added on. Tarmac do a very good deal on the Miltek system £660 inc resonator box and Y pipe - but have seen mixed reviews. It's the old phrase "You get what you paid for" I suppose. Could get a Scorpion box and resonator bit but use a cheaper Y pipe, or would that compromise the Scorpion do you think? Open to suggestions, but don't fancy a second hand system

2003 350z GT Left exhaust beginning to rattle and i know the system is badly corroded so took it in to STS Tyre Pros today and they let me see around under it to establish what needed doing. The Cats seem ok but the tin covering is rusted away and is causing the tinkling sound. The Y pipe flexis look shot. The straight pipe and the back box are heavily corroded around the joint, meaning both need replacing. So it looks like a complete Cat back replacement is necessary. STS Tyre Pros in Bromley make Powerflow systems to measure so I asked for a quote. They came up with full stainless Cat Back for £1104 inc VAT. I dont want to spend anything like that for a system that will probably out live the car and very likely it's owner, so the articles on here are really helpful, thanks to all those who contribute. Any specific advice is welcome. I am late 60s (very), would like 15% more rasp to the exhaust when engine is pushing compared to the standard system I have. I will get it fitted by a pro rather than DIY, those days have gone. Dual system or what? - don't know. Needs to look right on the car and not chavvy. MOT in Nov so might get through that first and then address the exhaust. Thanks in advance. Neil

Thought I should round up this thread. I bought a replacement cam sensor and fitted it. I reset the Eml light using the pedal dance so well documented on this site and all is well after about 3 hours of running. One or two points...right hand sensor means driver side to us Brits. I bought a sensor on ebay only to find although it was genuine Nissan it was 2nd hand which had not been made clear. No matter, it works and it's guaranteed but would rather have had a new one. Nissan price for a new sensor was only 20% more than my 2nd hand bit by time post is added so next time I will go to a Nissan shop for one of these I think. The right hand cam sensor took about 10 seconds to un bolt but 2 hours to release the wiring harness. Since learnt to push the centre harness out with screwdriver first about 5mm and then you can squeeze it to release. If you don't the bxxxxr won't separate. I hope this helps someone.

I don't think it's plugs, they wouldn't behave like that suddenly. Get the code reader on it. Bet you have a dodgy sensor somewhere.

It's the resonance you get through the ca, I think they all buzz a bit i know mine does particularly the gear lever. Try a bit of foam packing to cushion the tray if bending the tabs doesn't help.

An 08 with 15k on the clock. Result.. stop worrying, just drive it and enjoy it. Have a great 2015.

Under the glove box? Found this when fitting the phone kit. Glove box???? Glove box is behind the pax seat Oh, that is so odd I did find a pair of leather driving gloves in there when I bought the car......370Ad Ding Dong Haha.....and you've still got those shoes Linus yes and I am keeping them but you can have your scarf back Well I dare you to turn up at a track day like that

Good God, didn't your driving instructor ever explain that.. he should have done.

That's encouraging. Thanks. I will let you know what happens. Regards

Yes P0340 CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR ''A''CIRCUIT BANK 1 OR SINGLE SENSOR' So I am doing that first. But when I read up on it I find that it could be fault anywhere in the circuit including the crank sensor giving the same message. The the camshaft and crankshaft sensors on Zs have a history of being tempramental. There was a recall on 2003s like mine at one point but I didn't own it then. My milage is just under 60000 so I don't think the timing chain has stretched, at least I hope bxxxxx not.

Just to continue on my task for the week... OBD check says IMF light is on because Cam Pos Sensor BANK 1 (or circuit) is faulty. Easiest first step - change sensor and check wiring to and from as best I can visually. Re set to get light of and see what happens. Assume light comes back on. Kick cat and change the crank sensor ( another £70 down pan) Re set and test. Assume light comes on again. drop kick cat over fence. Change the left bank 2 cam sensor (although diagnostic says BANK 1 at fault. Asuume light comes on again. Stuff cat, apply to The Twilight Home for Bewidered Z owners and book the car in with Nissan. Anyone have any better ideas?

'Genuine' Nissan camshaft position sensor needed Further to an earlier thread, my cheapest first step is to replace the BANK 1 cam sensor and eiminate the problem showing up on OBD test. If problem persists will have to move to phase 2. Could anyone steer me to a good source for new branded Nissan part or a very good dependable alternative. It's an Oct 2003 Coupe Thanks