z350convert

I am thinking about upgrading from my 350z to a 370z at some point. As an "old school" driver and avid double de clutches/ heel and tower I never thought I would say this but I quite fancy an automatic because of the paddle shift option and the rev match gizmo. I have no experience of these but I had a few laps in a Ferrari with paddle shift the other day and thought it was good fun. Would I get bored with it and miss the manual change? Is there a down side to this transmission? Do they all have rev match? Answers from the knowledgable would be very welcome. Thanks

Nissmo version, there's a thought

"Reading between the lines in what you have put and the fact that you stated you were interested in the XKR I would think that rather than ask for options you are actually looking for a bigger GT style car for more leisurely driving than anything more raw? " Codel has it right I think. Maybe I'm thinking about a slightly more sedate drive but without losing too many of the Z qualities and performance. Really useful comments from AMT and a good insiight into Jaguar ownership. Must say the thought does appeal. thanks again.

All good thoughts thank you. I had a blast round in the big AMG Merc SL at the Brooklands track and although it was truly mind boggling some of these supercars are so refined you can't feel anything. The 911 is a great option but everyone I know with one is always coughing up a fortune for parts. Boxter, I've driven one, much more refinement, yes a contender but it doesn't excite.. BMW range has to be considered especially with room in the back for grand children but I do like the selfish uncompromising 2 seater. My elder brother had a TVR Griffith but the thing was always going off tune and costing him loads. It was truly fast and raw though, huge fun. The Lotus range is I think a bit too expensive for me. I had a Westfield before I got the Nissan and that kept taking me through people's hedges. It may not have been the car's fault on reflection. I found that a bit too spartan after 8 years. I will keep my options open and watch the prices. I still get a lot of fun out of my Z so there is no rush and at the moment it still ticks all the boxes. Thanks

Just thinking ahead and looking at what appeals to me if I want a change from the Z before we all have to drive little electric boxes or I go completely gaga, whichever comes sooner. Money and running costs are an issue. At 71 I still want plenty of power, rear wheel drive, good handling a good noise and FUN. Don't want to tinker around so much mechanically now and dare I say it, maybe an auto would be something I could age with. I was looking at Jaguar XK8 or even better, the XKR. Both have depreciated hugely and you can pick one up circa 10-15k. Great badge, V8, 4 litre, good looks, better prestige, reasonably well built and nice inside, convertible option. Power and performance on the XKR with the blower is more than enough and on the XK8 almost as good as Z. However, when you look at purchase costs, fuel consumption, cost of parts, power output, reliability, maintenance costs, road handling, road tax and every day practicality you realise what a brilliant option the 350z is. So maybe a peachy 370z is the way to go? Or stay with my trusty 350, which I am very happy with now although, like it's owner is getting long in the tooth. Comments welcome. regards

Just for the record, I have now done the click fix and the noise has gone. Encouraged by reports it could take 45 minutes to an hour per side I set too and 5 hours later, lying in a bath soaking aching muscles and grazes I thought at nearly 71 it was maybe not such a good idea. Plus, there was still the other side to do! Axle stands are essential, or better still a pit or a lift. I only had a couple of jacks. Good idea to have an assistant so you don't have to keep getting out from underneath. The axles are heavy so again, not such a good idea after major heart surgery but I'm still here. The axle nut is easy to get off but the torque needed to secure it was beyond my wrench so had to enlist Kwik Fit to give the final tweaks. I cleaned all rust off the axle and the hub and used a heavy marine grease on the splines and and packed some Moly CV grease inside the CV joints. Nissan said don't worry about changing the bolts to the diff but I torqued them up carefully. Cotter pins on the axle were renewed but the old ones had been used before and were broken. All in all I'm still not sure why this cure seems to work as the splines don't move anyway. I wonder if its just the tightening up of the axle nut that stops the click. Other side done now in under 3.5 hours including a little sleep under the car.

I'm going to go at this. I noticed that the Nissan bulletin stated new bolts, spring washers and nuts were needed when taking the axle from the diff so I went to local Nissan dealer to order them. The Parts manager came out and said frankly there was no need to replace them but I would need new cotter pins which he went and got for me and said there was no charges. He also said get both axles out and lube the splines and back of splines, but also get some CV grease in the CV joint itself. No mention of the marine grease I was looking for to put on the axle so I think I might get some for that purpose anyway. I hope this isn't going to one of those jobs I wish I hadn't started.

Just to kick this thread off again, I am a member of the clicking drive shaft club and I found this YouTube feature promoting the notion of using thread lock instead of grease. Willsy1980 asked for comments on this but no one seems to have tried it. Any thoughts?

I found clutch a bit unforgiving and sudden at first but you just tune into in time. Then you adjust back when you drive anything else.

Yes, I've read that thread before. Based on that and the fact it may not even be the UJs I think I'll take it on the trip and if it conks out and wife gives me hell (everything is my fault anyway) I'm going to blame the forum. Thanks for the replies, much appreciated.

Imminent journey due, around 1000 miles all up. My 2003z is making a "slight" clicky noise when backing up or shuffling forward. Have noticed it when window is down now weather is better, although I've been aware of it for a year or so and it hasn't got any worse. I suspect UJ wear unless you have better ideas. No time to do anything about it right now. So should I take the car on trip and sort it on return or take the other car which is of similar age with its own little quirks. What I'm saying I suppose is, do they go bad suddenly. I drive quickly but I'm always gentle with the transmission, its old after all. Comments will help me decide. Thanks very much.

Ah well if it is then all is well. I like it a bit lower but I can live with it. Thanks

After putting an induction kit on I've reset the throttle, and the idle with pedal dance ok( 700/800 rpm). BUT, since I do all this WITHOUT A/C on, when the A/C is turned on, which is how I have it all the time, the idle is a bit high for my liking (900 rpm) Any reason why I can't set it with the A/C turned on? Thanks

Having read tons of stuff on here I ignored all the advice and bought a short induction kit from Japspeed thinking, well it didn't cost much and if it's a disaster I've only blown £40 on a bit of nice pipe and a cone filter. It arrived quickly, well packed and it all looked pretty good quality wise, so I was quite pleased. Installing it proved to be more of a challenge than I was expecting. There being no instructions was no surprise but finding the induction pipe didn't fit correctly to the throttle body and the breather pipe being in the wrong place for a z certainly was. I rang Japspeed who were easy to get through to and very helpful. They thought the difference in the bore of the intake pipe and throttle body could be accommodated by the flexi hoses they supplied but I wasn't really happy with that so I sleeved it out with a reducer. The breather pipe was a real pig but I have sorted that with a brass elbow piece from Wickes and some mods to the hose. It's all a tight fit but it's in and looks fine. However, busting a flange on the MAFF housing wasn't part of the plan and although I have bodged it temporarily a member has come to the rescue with a replacement. The elbow on the breather doesn't give me any peace of mind, so having had one come off on another car and sprayed oil all over the car, me and a stretch of the M4 I'm going to improve that as well. So on start up it fired, a relief since I spray cleaned the MAFF at the same time. It sounds, well pretty much the same which is a bit of a relief as I didn't want a Banshee, it sounds good anyway with the Cobra plumbing. I just drove it round the block and I could detect no difference and no leaks so I will give it a run and see what changes there are. No sign of any warning lights coming on but the idle is a little rapid so if it doesn't settle I will re set the throttle body. I hope this report proves useful to someone.

Managed to break one of the flanges off my MAF housing. Think I can do a fix but I want to replace it as a permanent repair. The MAF unit itself is ok, just the housing. Can anyone sell me a surplus one? Thanks (2003 GT car)

Thanks for the comments. Well in truth having read all that I still quite fancy the funky cone sound just for the fun of it. As an old age pensioner I need all the fun I can get! I will sleep on it. Time for a nap anyway. Cheers

I put a resonated unit on about 18 months ago. It was cat backwards. The cats are original but I swapped the Y pipe for a later, upgraded style from one of the members on the forum, it's a standard part but it has probably made a slight difference. It sounds really good, not raucous but crisp. It resonates more at motorway speeds, not too bad, but I wouldn't want the non resonated one, this is a good compromise. Very pleased with Cobra.

Loads of stuff on this issue here and many opinions. I fancy an inexpensive enhancement that will make the car a bit more efficient, more fun or more powerful or any one of these. I was looking at short intake kits with cone filters but have been put off them because of the "hot air" controversy. Cold air ones are a bit more dosh and evidently can suck water. Some folk put extra plumbing in but I don't fancy messing around for little benefit. A bit disappointed, I then thought of a sports intake cartridge in the standard box. More air in, more efficient no fannying about, discrete and maybe an even better exhaust note when it's pulling. HKS get good reviews and no need for expensive remaps. What could possibles go wrong for about £50. Comments from the wise awaited. Thanks in advance PS. If short induction kits are such a naf add on why do so many people instal them, just for the suck?

My 350z 2003 GT is stuck down the road with its starter jammed in mesh. Going down to do battle with it later. I am guessing it's the starter motor assembly that's knackered so before I commit to eBay I thought I would ask the traders on our forum for a price. New or recon only. By all means send me a private message with price if you wish. Many thanks

I just did a refurb job on the front bumper assembly. Took it off the car so I could do my best on it to get rid of stone chips and scratches underneath. I don't have proper spraying equipment so have to use spray cans. This stuff on Amazon was a really good colour match for the gunmetal... NISSAN Full Car Paint Aerosol Repair Kit SILVER WV2 by Paints4u

Will have a look. Thanks

Have read quite a bit on this in various threads. I know its normal and the alloy gear knob I have has made it a bit worse. But my question is, what's the cause? The knob vibrates as a result of an issue somewhere, a gearbox mount, slackness in the linkage or wear in the box itself, I don't know. Some have fitted a short throw lever, which reduces the rattle, which it would of course but it doesn't address the original cause. It's a 2003 GT with 64000 miles on clock and a previous owner who was a bit of an oaf with the gearbox I think. Look forward to seeing what you think. Thanks

Thumbs up for res Cobra but it's a pity the tail trim is a bolt on. Even so it resonates more than the standard system on motorway but it more than makes up for it in the rasp when you give it the beans.

Nasty shock and an even bigger one for the deer. You just can't plan for that all the time. The blokes on here will sort you out in no time and you will have a pristine front end.

So if I have understood this correctly the kits are currently unavailable. I have ordered one of these at the princely price of £6.75 or something, from China, what can possibles go wrong. Am expecting a little bloke in sandles with a lampshade on his head to come running up the path in about 2 weeks with my package. Also expect instructions to be a complete farce. The ad didn't inspire much confidence as it said the mirrors open out on igniting the car, not quite what I had in mind but my family has a history of setting fire to its cars so I think I have it covered. Stand by for cries for help. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191605297838