The Chubby Ninja

That's a shame. I just bit the bullet and bought a new battery. Longest the car has lay is about 3 weeks since fitting without starting and starts sweet now glad I didn't waste money on the solar charger

I'm defo up for this! Not seen you guys in far too long and having a year out building my engine I've missed alot. I'm looking forward to these meets again. Il try and check on here a bit more regularly to keep upto date but if I don't reply to a meet post if someone could pm me that would be great. Looking forward to my nandos already haha

Yeah I've used them for 3 years now, had to replace 1 of them after about a year but was kind of my fault. I've got an extra washer on them aswell as the spacer you get with it. They allow decent lock without spending crazy money on a lock kit. I'dresommend them anyway

That sounds perfect. I'm starting to think my mishimoto thermostat is faulty aswell as the radiator not being fit for purpose. I will swap them both out and hopefully sort the issue out. Thanks very much for your help

Thanks for the info snjur. That sounds like a good tested setup then! I think I will go for the nismo thermostat and skunk 2 rad then. Do you ever get over cooling during normal driving?

Yeah it was a great day but really challenging, some parts of the track had loads of grip while other parts were like ice! You done really well and don't worry about not being perfect first time out we've all been there. Just need to get that diff welded now to get some proper control of the car. Look forward to seeing you up there again

Has nobody got any input on this?

My standard handbrake would work if I threw the car into a corner and then yanked it on, half a drift day later and the handbrake cables were all stretched and it wasn't working anymore. Hydro handbrake all the way! I wouldn't waste your money on anything else. Also a drift button won't help you drift

Looking for a bit info from people with knowledge of cooling systems. The car is a fully forged and supercharged DE running around 500hp used for mainly drifting but still does some road journeys. It never used to overheat coolant with the standard radiator but thought I'd upgrade anyway, chose the mishimoto rad with their fans,bad move unfortunately. After fitting I get about 2 mins on track before the temp was up and into the red (coolant has been bled properly several times) this kept happening so I got rid of the fans and shroud and fitted 2 spal fans with a Davis craig fan controller and override switch, this helped a bit where now I get about 4 mins drifting before its too hot. I'm 99% sure the problem is with the rad and due to the cores being around 1mm thick so here's my question, do I buy a skunk 2 rad instead and try it, or do I have a custom big fat radiator made for it? What worries me is the mishimoto rad over cools on normal driving and on motorways drops to about 40*c so would the big custom rad be even worse? I've also got a mishimoto racing thermostat that's about 3 years old now so could that need changed? And would fitting a standard thermostat help with normal running temps but cause me to overheat quicker? I'm struggling to see the point of a racing thermostat if I'm honest. Any help from people with some knowledge in this department would be great cheers

Ah itl be fine man. No worries. I'm all set for tomorrow, hopefully the weather's decent

Cheers buster I think il give one a try

I'm having the same issues and I'm not even 6ft, fine without a helmet but need to slouch in the bucket seat when I've got it on. Mine is on rails but I was thinking about taking them out and making some sort of bracket up so I can bolt it to the floor. The floors not flat tho so may cause some issues. I think bride do low seat rails but I'm not sure if it will give much more room than the one I've got. Would like to find out if anyone has the bride low max rails?

I don't think a 2 way diff is necessary to be honest, I've been fine with the same welded viscous diff for the last 3 years. As for a geo setup, your generally wanting the rear wheels as straight as possible, ie 0 deg toe and camber. For the front, camber around -2 to -3 degrees but this can't be adjusted without arms. I run the front toe at 0.2 degrees toe out as it makes the steering response really fast but a bit rubbish on roads at high speed as you hit bumps and it pulls you all over the road so if your keeping it as a road car I'd say 0 degree toe or 0.1 at most. Just to note tho, my alignment hasn't been done in about 2 years and is pretty shocking atm but still drifts haha. Tein steering arms are a good cheap upgrade aswell but not entirely essential. Gives you enough steering lock

Yeah my wheels have done full laps with no tyres so I don't bother about them lol. I wouldn't be doing nice wheels haha

Na you don't need to balance them for drift, they aren't on long enough for it to matter lol. I don't think there are many tyre fitters qualified to be honest, I do them myself there's not much to it

Jay a guy used to go and take 5 a tyre fitting and 2.50 to dispose and he made a mint! £15 a pair and flat out for 4 hours it was a great idea. I think they ended up falling out after driftland were wanting a cut. It's a good idea tho and good for the place

Stevo How can you afford 10 new tyres to burn on a drift day lol? What do you use? I'm quite lucky because I get tyres free which are pretty much new but a drift day is expensive enough without buying tyres lol

I normally take 8-10 wheels for a 4 hr drift day aswell and that's with plenty breaks in between. If you are linking all the corners a set will last 3-4 mins but if you are just skidding the odd corner they won't use much at all as the tyres will barely get heat in them. As you get better you will need to get more wheels. Driftland don't normally put tyre changing on unless alot of folk are asking for it. There is garages nearby but don't think they will be open on a sunday. Il give you a spare set and there's a chance il break my car on the day so you can use whatever I have left over lol. My mates weld my diffs but quite a bit away for you, I'm sure there's loads of places through your way who will do it. It's about 150 for a spare diff so might be worth getting 1 and welding it and just swapping them over for drift days

I don't think there will be tyre changing facilities that day it's just usually the big days they have it. If you come over before it I could probably lend you a pair to use and just give me them back after the day. I personally hate the vlsd as it's so unpredictable, could end up putting you in the wall if your not quite sure how to use it. Best advice I could give you is never lift with it, always keep some throttle on to keep it locked, if you lift it just opens the diff and only spins 1 wheel usually putting you straight on and into a wall lol

Also where are you from lurch?

You won't need to take water as you can get water from the taps there. I'd highly recommend getting the diff welded before you go as drifting with the vlsd is dangerous in my opinion (I ended up rolling my last z drifting with it lol) I'd be taking more wheels aswell, I was drifting there on Sunday and the track dried quick and a good set of tyres were lasting 3/4 mins a set. Obviously if you're just starting you won't use them as fast but even 4 to burn on your first day. I should be drifting that day aswell so feel free to park next to us in the pits. Il even come out with you and give you some pointers if you'd like? Are you on Facebook? I'm easier to contact on there if you need any help

Not got time for a big reply Andrew but most of they things are a piece of **** to fix and alot of them are just recommendations and not required yet. And as for the steering rack, yeah they are expensive, around £300 but you can get a seal kit for them for £35. I know because I done mine yesterday lol. I'd keep it if I were you, stop taking it to main dealers and take it somewhere like dynatune in East Kilbride where your going to get the work done right and won't get ripped off in the process. Trust me if you get a normal car you will be depressed within a month and probably find yourself buying brakes/tyres etc within months anyway

I was just about to say it's probably for a boost controller that's been removed before selling. I'd recommend getting a boost controller for it as just bleeding off the actuator isn't the most reliable method

That's awesome! It's been a while since you've driven it and I feel your pain lol. Mine seems to be over cooling driving in this weather so will need to fashion some cardboard shields for the radiator so you might find yours is the same

That mesh actually looks pretty good! It's soo hard to get mesh that doesn't look chavy. Can't be far away now tho man