comrade

If it is a write-off, which it most probably is because of what was already said about insurance prices, do this. Wait for them to come back to you with an offer, tell them to $%&%^*£$^%, wait for a second offer, do the same, wait for a third offer, reluctantly accept it as if you were making them a big favour, buy parts from scrappies, paint/not paint them at sensible prices. If you do it properly it is extremely likely that you will come out of this better off.

Now is not a good time to sell a 2-seater sportscar. If you definitely need to sell it within a month you will have to take a hit on the price. You will have to price it near the bottom of the range of cars of similar age and mileage. Depends on how much do you want a new car, really. New 370z's don't sell particularly well, so the chances are that your finance deal will be available to you whenever.

Oh bollocks, I thought Gangzoom's pics were OP's, sorry. Mondays are not kind to me

That's what OP has got

That 3 litre biturbo is an amazing engine, too bad the rest of the car is a blunt and boring repmobile. Coupes in M-sport trim are kinda passable, but bog standard saloon is just meh.

I am not an expert, but I'd say if it vibrates on braking then it is a warped rotor. At least it seems to be the most obvious reason. I just can't see how anything in suspension could cause a vibration on application of a constant braking force, unless it is completely shot to bits. A garage would probably not be able to tell that a rotor is warped because even a very minor surface unevenness can cause vibrations.

No, because you need to slide the iPad into the connector. So whilst a standard case is made to fit, the item I've built allows you to slide the iPad in, which will then connect to the cable. That was one of my ideas but it just wouldn't have worked. You don't really need the iPad to slide while inside the case for that, you can leave some slack on the cable, so that you would connect the cable first and then click the iPad into the case if that makes any sense? Damn, I wish they brought decent affordable 3d printers out, would be so much easier to do things like that. I wouldn't mind doing something like that for the cubby, but I don't think I could fabricate something that would not look totally ghetto.

Wouldn't it be easier just to buy a cheap case and cut off whatever you don't need, than to go through all the hassle of fabricating a whole new one?

Should be high. Try adjusting the pedal as per this guide http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/50287-how-to-adjust-clutch-pedal/ Maybe the previous owner adjusted it too low? If not that then it is the slave cylinder, when it goes the pedal drops right to the floor, but normally it happens when it is hot rather than cold.

It does sound like something is wrong with the clutch. Maybe the usual slave cylinder? Is the biting point low or high?

Just fitted mine, looks very nice and totally OEM. Brilliant little mod.

Did that once. On the downshift while overtaking. Luckily there was loads of space, otherwise would not be funny. Never done that again.

You can try taking an immobiliser chip out of a first key and sticking it in the second. It is a little black thingy wedged in the left corner of a key in your first picture. It is not glued, just wedged in there. Disconnecting a battery in the first key will have no effect on it. I don't know whether it will work though, just an idea that could theoretically work.

Those "warranties" are not worth the paper they are written on. Lots of exclusions, attempts to wiggle out of each claim etc etc. Better just to put some money away, or have an overdraft/credit card for in case something happens than to rely on those crooks.

Maybe don't understand something here, but why would anyone pay £4k for a 10 year old Lupo? I mean, in what way is it better than any other old hatch that you can buy for a grand?

Buy a pair of men's used work boots. size 14-16. Place them on your front porch, along with a copy of Guns & Ammo magazine and your NRA magazines. Put a few giant dog dishes next to the boots and magazine. Leave a note on your door that reads: Hey Bubba, Big Jim, Duke and Slim - "I'm gone for more shotgun and .45 ammo. Be back soon. Don't be messin' with the pit bulls -- they attacked that darn mailman again this mornin' and went and messed him up real bad. I don't think Mauler took part in it all but it was hard to tell from all the blood. I think it was Blade and Killer who done most of it. Anyways, all six of 'em is locked up in the house. Better wait outside 'till I git back" *stolen from somewhere on the net

Mike Change the oil/filter. If the problem disappears then you are in a waiting game. If it does not, then we can discuss your options. I understand your worries, but there is no point in overthinking hypothetical scenarios and getting wound up about it. For all we know, it might be the most reliable car you ever owned.

I actually studied that stuff at the uni. Should be taught at schools to everyone, in my opinion. There are way too many misconceptions going on.

No, there is no implied term as to the fitness for purpose in private sales. There is an implied term as to the title, ie the seller must actually own the car, but that is about it. The only resort that you might have in private sale cases is in misrepresentation, meaning that, for example, if the seller told you (or in an ad) that the mileage is 50k, but it actually is 100k, then you can have a remedy. Otherwise it is buyer beware. It is not his right to do so unless you are deemed to have accepted the car. There are 2 different scenarios here: 1. You have accepted the car and there is a problem in which case he can repair and 2. You have not accepted the car, in which case you have the right to return it if any conditions of the contract of sale are broken, which includes implied condition of fitness in SGA1979. Correct, but not "as per trading standards regs", but as per the Sale of Goods Act 1979. And not really a warranty, but close enough I guess.

This is incorrect. SGA1979 s14(2): "Where the seller sells goods in the course of a business, there is an implied term that the goods supplied under the contract are of satisfactory quality"."In the course of a business" was defined in the following cases: R&B v UDT [1988] 1 WLR 321, Stevenson v Rogers [1999] 2 WLR 1064, Feldarol Foundry v Hermes Leasing [2004] EWCA Civ 747. Registration and other formalities have no relevance to the issue whatsoever. Even if you buy and sell 2-3 cars a year on ebay in your spare time as a way of making some extra cash, your sales are subject to the implied conditions in SGA1979 because you are dealing in the course of a business. Well that was expected. Unfortunately you cannot do anything about it without evidence of an actual fault. The good thing is that if the fault appears in the first 6 months the seller has to prove that it was not there at the point of sale, which in your case would be pretty much impossible. So, effectively, you got a 6 month "guarantee" on that.

The only certainty here is that you have no idea as to how long your clutch will last. It might be on its last legs, but it also might last for another 50k miles. Don't put anything about it in the advert at all. Anyone who has done research into those cars will realise that lifespan of the clutch has nothing to do with the mileage. Just let people make their own conclusions.

It seems that there is some confusion about the law here. It does not matter the slightest what the guy said about it being the trade sale. Equally it does not matter whether he is a limited company, sole trader or of just some random guy. What matters is that the seller has sold the car for a business purpose and the buyer bought it as a consumer. It that case the buyer has the full protection of the Sale of Goods Act 1979.

Those Mercs are so cheap for a reason. If anything breaks, you are in for some serious cash, and there is a lot to break there. At 10 years old and 100k miles they are right at the point when things start to fail. If you want mad bhp look for a supercharged Monaro, they pop up occasionally in the <£15k price range. Monaros are probably about as simple as it gets nowadays, so not much to break.

I agree with Ekona. In law possible damage is not a valid reason for rejecting a car, there has to be an actual fault. If the problem will not go away if topped up with oil, then you can reject.

Just do it yourself mate. With the right harness it is almost a straight swap. If you will get in a muddle people on here will sure not mind helping you to sort it out.