cs2000

I now have a test version of the software which should hopefully be able to programme HR vehicles now, This is strictly a Beta version at the moment so im not sure! But if any local-ish member wants HR keys coded and accepts it MAY not work at this time, hit me up.

Group buy is going well on the Facebook group. We are now at 15 members on the list which is great, however one person has fallen through as i cant get hold of them. Once i have 15 people paid up, one person will receive a full refund so their module is free! Still 6 weeks left on this before the price goes back up to full price.

Sadly not, I don’t know why, it just causes weirdness with auto boxes! 3. Andrew Mahers (Club Facebook Group) - Completed, Posted 1. P15ul T - Payment Requested 2. John Steers (Club Facebook Group) - Payment Requested 4. Spacemaker - Payment Requested 5. Camz34

Hey mate, I can add you of course, but It only works on manual gearboxes, uk or JDM, doesn’t matter, just need to be a manual! let me know if you still want in!

I have the Windows version and it’s very very good. From the limited info I can find, I don’t think the android version does that, but you can always pop into the forums and ask the developer Tom

Afternoon all, Did an oil change a few days ago and noticed that there was a plastic looking block just hanging around by the alternator. After a bit of poking around, i realised the plastic block was actually metal, with a plastic covering on it and had a rusted through metal tab that was supposed to be bolted to a bolt on the back of the alternator itself. It looks like this has clean rusted through, leaving the part with a hole for a bolt on the alternator and the actual strap just dangling in the wind. I wast able to see really where the other end of this wire went, does anyone have any clues at all? Everything seems to be running just fine (apart from a random P0340 code that keeps coming up) , so im sure its just an additional grounding wire, but would be keen to replace it with some fresh wire if i could find where the other end is supposed to go to!

Speaking from very recent experience, if you do pull the fuses, dont just visually check them, you really need a multimeter to check them with, anything over a very tiny resistance is blown. A huge chunk of my recent issues with the Z was a fuse which was blown. Looked totally in-tact but when tested with a meter it had crazy high resistance. It was blown, but i suspect it was a hairline seperation which allowed some conductivity, but not enough even for 12v to flow smoothly.

Shaping up to be another good day, really hope we can reach that magical 100 attendees again. We were rewarded with a absolute prime spot last year, i suspect due to our constant high numbers and clean well organised stand, so lets see what we get this year. @MattRwebB - Im sure some far away members will be staying, but we dont all convoy in to the circuit as one club. Having to organise anything more than 10 cars in the traffic and what not is a pain in the a$$, let alone 100 That said, if you fancy joining a small convoy, im organising the usual one at South Mimms which youll be driving by on the way anyway!

OK, so Xmas is over, the country is slowly coming out of winter and people will be pulling their Z's out of hibernation and thinking of show season and the fun of the next year ahead. With that in mind, i have begun to build up another batch of modules and its Group Buy time. I have a whole heap of the blank PCB's in stock and some spare components so im working with what i have in stock but not built. GB will work as follows GB Starts: Now GB Ends: 31st March 2020 Discount: 0-5 Members, 10% (£53.95), 6+ Members, 25% (£44.95) Theirs no limit on the amount of members that il offer this too. if we somehow get to 15+, il draw one random name and that person will get it for free! Stick your name down if interested!

OK, so Xmas is over, the country is slowly coming out of winter and people will be pulling their Z's out of hibernation and thinking of show season and the fun of the next year ahead. With that in mind, i have begun to build up another batch of modules and its Group Buy time. I have a whole heap of the blank PCB's in stock and some spare components so im working with what i have in stock but not built. I have also tweaked the software and sped up the reaction time, rather than a 1 second delay, theirs now an imperceptible delay of around 0.1 second. Easier burnouts, or good for drifting GB will work as follows GB Starts: Now GB Ends: 31st March 2020 Discount: 0-5 Members, 10% (£71.95), 6+ Members, 25% (£59.95) Theirs no limit to the amount of spots on the list. Stick your name down if interested! This is open to people on the club Facebook group too, so I will be adding names to the list as/when anyone from there joins the list. 1. Paul Barlow (Club Facebook Group) - Completed, Posted 2. Jimmy Nsouli (Club Facebook Group) - Completed, Posted 3. Ben Simmonds (Club Facebook Group) - Completed, Posted 4. Alex Barmby (Club Facebook Group) -Completed, Posted 5. Tom Wray (Club Facebook Group) - Completed, Posted 6. Ryan Lakey (Club Facebook Group) - Completed, Posted 7. Robert Johnson (Club Facebook Group) - Completed, Posted 8. Mitch Squires (Club Facebook Group) - Completed, Posted 10. Garrett Mc Monagle (Club Facebook Group) - Completed, Posted 11. Antonio Choi (Club Facebook Group) - Completed, Posted 12. Scott R Mitchell (Club Facebook Group) - Completed, Posted 13. John Clark (Club Facebook Group) - Completed, Posted 14. Kieran Blackburn (Club Facebook Group) - Payment Requested 16. Dan Skippy Thomas (Club Facebook Group) - Payment Requested 20. da.murf - Payment Requested 9. Harrison Schultz (Club Facebook Group) - PAID 15. Gareth Hyndman (Club Facebook Group) - PAID 17. Deville Nanny (Club Facebook Group) - PAID 18. Bluer_01 - PAID 19. Bozhidar Tashev (Club Facebook Group) - PAID

Not received mine still, sure it’s just a post issue. I’ve been out of the country for the week, but someone has been home all the time. @SuperStu can you check what’s happened if you have tracking info? If it’s actually gotten lost, don’t worry too much, don’t want you to have to suck up the cost of ordering a new one just for me!

Thanks for organising this again mate, payment just sent though! The calendars are always well made, takes pride of place in my office every year.

As Alex said, it will be your rad fan failed/failing. Once the car gets hot, one of the two fans should fire up, cant remember which side. If you want a quick test, put the air-con on, Both fans should immediately fire up. If one doesnt, that's your faulty/failing one. Sounds like its an intermittent fan, which will fail at some point.

Looks like their impact driver damaged the paint on installation. Id not be too pleased with that personally if its freshly repaired.

Welllll, I feel like an idiot.... So as I said, ran out of time earlier to test, all I knew was throttle cut was still happening. Next steps were to get the car warm, perform Idle Air Volume Learn and then remove the intake tube, check the throttle body is free of debris and re-seat the entire intake tube and filter. The wife is staying away this evening and I couldn't rest on the car, so I decided, well its dark now, roads are quiet, lets go get her warmed up. Got her nice and warm and put my foot down, throttle cut but out the corner of my eye, I noticed something. My WOT box (Launch Control and No Lift Shift controller) was blinking as though it thought I was trying to No Lift Shift. so I pulled over, connect up my laptop and took a look. As it turns out. During my meddling with the no start issue, I had updated the firmware of the box, and what does this do? Well it resets all your settings! SO what did that mean? It was trying to read my engine as some kind of Dodge engine, no biggie really, but the kicker was the Clutch position sensor was reading backwards so it ALWAYS thought I had the clutch down when it was up. If I was using over 50% throttle (the threshold for no lift shift to activate) the WOT box assumed I wanted to shift. Because the clutch was being read wrong it assumed I had it held down and duly cut ignition so I could shift !!!!!!! A quick selection box change in the software was all that was required to fix the "odd" throttle cut (which was actually spark cut as it turns out...) FML, I feel like a right lemon. Plus points, my MAF was fine. Anyone wanna buy a brand new MAF used for 15 miles? I did get a error code during my drive of "P0340 CMP SEN/CIRC-B1" so perhaps I do actually need a bank 1 camshaft sensor, but I cleared it, drove some more miles and it didn't return, but at least if that's what I do need eventually, I know its an easy swap, just don't buy eBay cam or crank sensors, they 100% do not work.

MAF arrived today, fitted and actually works which is good I guess! Anyway, performed the Throttle Pedal & Throttle Body Position Reset pedal dance's, couldn't do the Idle Air Volume as the car wasn't warmed up (which is required). however, on +50% throttle it still throttle cuts, which is weird. No CEL, no errors stored in any of the cars systems. very odd. Ran out of time today, its the time of the day when the school mums come and clog up the roads, so I cant go for a drive, but next steps are another ECU Learning Reset, then to try an idle air volume learn after warming the car up. Il also remove the intake tube, check the throttle body is free of debris and re-seat the entire intake tube and filter, but after that im out of ideas! This all happened after disconnecting and cleaning the MAF and Crankshaft Bank 1 sensor plugs, no other symptoms. Car is absolutely fine I driven at any speed and any RPM's as long as I don't exceed around 50% throttle. Any other clues what to check failing this?

Yeah, just go and use the club password and stuff from the first page

Interesting indeed. From my reading, I took away that the BCM actually stored the registered keys, but I’ve been proven wrong, the wording as rather vague, I’m just hoping this resolves the startup issues longer term. The TSB I read said “The ECM and BCM do work together, but the BCM now controls the information necessary to tell the ECM to start the vehicle", I guess that’s open to interpretation of course! Even a BCM replacement guide on the US forums tell you go tow the car to Nissan once you fit the BCM to have it programmed. if this doesn’t work, next thing il be looking at is the NATS antenna around the ignition barrel. However I don’t think (but not sure) that my software can pair this to an ECU which would be required as far as I know, so fingers crossed I don’t have to do that as il have to buy an ECU and NATS antenna from the same car, that also means losing my UpRev tune. Further testing continues once the MAF arrives. Thabks again @karlh, I’ve not seen your name much on these forums, but you’ve been very very helpful!

So interesting day. The BCM arrived, 1 day late, annoying but no biggie I guess. Fitted it just now after checking all the fuses with a meter to ensure they’re good, pressed the lock button on the remote and oddly the car locked. Turned the key and there was no NATS led and the car fires up (was fully expecting to have to reprogram all of my keys). I did reprogram them anyway just as a safeguard. started the car 5 times with each key and no startup issues at all. Weird I didn’t have to re-add the keys but hey-ho. still waiting for a MAF to arrive to hopefully cure the throttle cut at high throttle input. no further issues with lack of power on OBD which is good I guess. Seems to be getting there...

As with previous years im super on the ball and have the South Mimms convoy up and ready for people to add their names too

Hi all, For the fourth year running, im trying to organise what usually turns out to be a small-ish convoy of vehicles from London and the south east area to travel to Japfest together, this really helped me during my first show as i was nervous about where to go and the exact steps to get in. Every year so far we have had around 8 vehicles from the Kent and Essex area meet at South Mimms services and we travelled up to Japfest together. As a first timer in the past this was amazingly helpful so I wanted to take the lead and organise it again. So, the meeting place is the South Mimms Services on the M25/A1(m) Junction. Bignells Corner, Potters Bar, Herts, EN6 3QQ The meeting place is the car park of the BP petrol station on site (NOT the main South Mimms parking area) as it means any lowered vehicles don’t have to contend with the main car parks speed bumps, so let’s meet there again. Feel free to arrive at any time you want as long as its ---before--- 6:40am. Any vehicles meeting at this location will be leaving at 6:40 am sharp due to the early entry requirement for Club Stand cars into Japfest. (we need to be in before 8AM) If you’re late then you’ll have to catch up. On The Day Notes/Tips The guys at the BP station have never given us any trouble for meeting in there as nobody else meets there, at least they haven't in the previous years we have met there, we don't clog up their site as we usually meet on the left hand side as you drive in, the parking bays there are usually empty at that time of the morning. Worth checking on this forum post if you struggle to find us, il be checking in, trying to find anyone that gets lost, or if we have to change locations on site. For large sections of the M25 and M1, there are speed cameras on the side, or above the motorway gantry's, so, drive how you want, but just be aware they're there. Whoever ends up leading (i have for most of the previous years) needs to remember that too. My sat-nav tells me the locations so if I just to happen to doing 71mph, its "safe" to do so. Also, once we turn off of the M1, you'll know, it looks like you're turning into a services, just cool it WAY down. There will be a police speed gun in almost every single lay-by in the last few miles to Japfest, there has been every single year When you get close to the circuit, ensure you have you car club stand tag hung on your mirror or visibly on your dashboard and everyone in the vehicle has their entry tickets to hand to ensure you don't hold up the queue! We haven't (yet) been allocated a club stand number, but these are Txx and Bxx (Tunnel or Bridge). If we have Tunnel (fingers crossed, tunnel is fun!), you turn Left after getting through the ticket gates, if we have Bridge, you turn right. Il update this section as and when we get stand allocation provided to us. Sorry if i sound like your mum i just don't want anyone's day to be ruined by points and a fine! Any questions please ask , but il start the list! (Added my registration so you guys can find me as there’s usually a lot of cars meet at South Mims) This does depend on my car actually working properly before Japfest, right now she's … a little sick... But if I drop out, I'm sure someone else will step in and handle things @Paul K 1. Cs2000 (OO04 MYZ) EDIT: Please see my post further down. Due to the impending sale of my Z, and the uncertainty of who's going to be attending this October event, i have cancelled the convoy for now unless someone else wishes to take the lead.

@karlh was spot on, fuse number 34 inside the relay box (in front of the battery) was blown, Visually, it looks fine, however when checking with a Multimeter i showed a crazy high resistance, swapped it and got power to Pin 16 on the OBD plug. This let me go in and reset the ECU's learning, clear the NATS codes and the car fired up, however, the cut throttle is still there, revving up slowly is fine, using anything around 50%+ throttle causes the engine to bog and feel like a throttle cut. I took some data logs of RPM, AFM Volts, Accelerator pedal Volts and Throttle position sensor. Where the TPS sensors go up to 4v+, thats full throttle and as you can see, the RPM's fall off, then recover to 1200 RPM + when i let off the throttle. Time, RPM, Air Flow V, Accel P1, TPS 1 000.078, 962, 1.38, 0.78, 0.66 000.156, 950, 1.38, 0.78, 0.66 000.203, 950, 1.38, 0.78, 0.66 000.265, 950, 1.38, 0.78, 0.66 000.328, 962, 1.38, 0.78, 0.66 000.406, 962, 1.38, 0.78, 0.66 000.468, 962, 1.38, 0.78, 0.66 000.531, 962, 1.38, 0.78, 0.66 000.593, 962, 1.38, 0.78, 0.66 000.687, 950, 1.39, 0.78, 0.66 000.750, 950, 1.39, 0.79, 0.66 000.828, 950, 1.38, 0.78, 0.66 000.875, 950, 1.38, 0.78, 0.66 000.953, 950, 1.38, 0.79, 0.66 001.062, 950, 1.4, 1.84, 0.67 001.187, 862, 2.92, 4.6, 4.13 001.265, 775, 2.35, 4.6, 4.13 001.343, 700, 1.94, 4.6, 4.12 001.421, 775, 2.62, 4.6, 4.12 001.500, 738, 2.98, 4.6, 4.12 001.593, 650, 2.18, 4.6, 4.12 001.687, 750, 2.27, 4.6, 4.13 001.750, 688, 2.3, 4.6, 4.12 001.828, 638, 2.41, 4.6, 4.13 001.890, 600, 1.82, 4.6, 4.12 001.968, 538, 1.79, 4.6, 4.12 002.062, 675, 2.56, 4.6, 4.12 002.140, 650, 2.46, 4.6, 4.12 002.250, 700, 2.68, 4.6, 4.12 002.328, 638, 1.91, 4.6, 4.12 002.390, 662, 1.95, 4.6, 4.13 002.484, 662, 2.46, 4.6, 4.12 002.562, 588, 1.8, 4.6, 4.12 002.640, 638, 2.34, 4.6, 4.13 002.703, 700, 2.67, 4.6, 4.13 002.765, 662, 2.09, 4.6, 4.13 002.875, 725, 1.94, 4.6, 4.12 002.984, 700, 2.52, 3.52, 4.06 003.078, 875, 1.62, 0.78, 0.88 003.171, 1125, 1.4, 0.78, 0.69 003.265, 1212, 1.48, 0.78, 0.69 003.359, 1188, 1.5, 0.78, 0.69 003.437, 1200, 1.52, 0.78, 0.69 003.546, 1262, 1.51, 0.78, 0.68 003.609, 1250, 1.52, 0.78, 0.68 003.703, 1262, 1.48, 0.78, 0.68 003.765, 1262, 1.5, 0.78, 0.68 003.859, 1275, 1.5, 0.78, 0.68 Im now (from the code i got the other day "P0113 which is Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input" thinking i have a damaged MAF, maybe i sprayed the contact cleaner in a little too vigorously? The MAF may also have been hot from being recently ran, so spraying freezing cold contact cleaner may have just snapped one of the tiny heated wires. From some further reading on exactly how important a MAF is This is what im seeing! Im getting no CEL or ANY codes on ANY of the cars systems, but the RPM will not rise and it "feels" like a misfire. I really should have taken logs of both long- and short-term fuel trims and the oxygen sensor. The fuel trims would show you if the ECU is compensating for inaccurate airflow measurement, and the oxygen sensor readings show you if that compensation is successful (which...it wont be!). During a full-throttle acceleration, the O2 sensor would normally report a rich A/F ratio, but it won’t if the MAF is dirty/broken/not reading for whatever reason. Any thoughts on this one? Still waiting for my new BCM to arrive to hopefully fix the NATS issue once and for all.

Shame to see you step down mate, but life always moves on I guess

Nissan Datascan 2, replicates most of the functions of a Consult II

Yeah, thats kinda why i need the OBDII to be working again, i have had P1610 before and i know this software can reset the lock. I have 3 keys, including 2 remote keys and one dumb key direct from Nissan, i fail to believe that they've all gone bad in the space of a week as ive performed that reset and cannot escape NATS lockout. The ECU/ECM must be good as i know if its disconnected/dead the rad fins spin up full speed when you turn the car to on, mine doesn't do that, so im almost set on a intermittent BCM, one is on the way This, along with hopefully a simple fuse swap should have me working again. Il keep you updated.