cs2000

Ok, that’s it guys, I’m done with these modules, won’t be selling anymore. Thanks for everyone that came and bought one from me, much appreciated

Thanks for the recommendations guys, we're chatting in PM now about my mod. From my point of view. One thing stands out. If you stamp super hard on the brakes and engage ABS, the TCS/Slip lights stay illuminated on the dash. The slip light should blink whilst ABS is functioning, but it should go off. The only way you can get those lights to stay on is to do a donut. Some weird combination of high wheel RPM readings on one axle along with a weird sideways G load causes the TCS/VDC computer to go into fault mode and disable itself. It only gets re-enabled when you re-start the car and the wheel speed sensors register "normal" values (such as just driving in a normal fashion. Just from that symptom alone, im fairly confident its the TCS/VDC system getting in your way, but it is weird that you say your brakes seize and stay seized even when you release pedal. You are correct that if abs was working correctly you would under steer (to a point anyway). SOme very odd symptoms, but your current build, setup and use-case is way outside of anything Nissan would ever expect the computers and sensors would have to deal with, so these things are expected i guess.

Hey all, just as a reminder, I currently have 3 of these in stock fully built and ready to go, I also have several other modules part made and a ton more PCB's, so these should be "always" available now moving forwards. Now, onto future developments. I have been working on and off for about 6 months now on a "upgrade" to this module, the new one would do all the same stuff, but would also allow the boosted guys to get in on the fun. It would allow Brake Boosting (build boost pressure on the line) and for the hoonigan in us all, it would also allow standing burnouts as it disables the throttle limit/cut when the brake is pressed. Im getting the code finished up and have ordered some PCB's but no components yet, im just letting you all know what im working on

for me, a combination of short extensions (which inherently have some slop in them), and one of those universal joint wobbly things seemed to do it. Some of those bolts arent easily accessible, but 100% doable with a pretty basic toolkit. Where are you based, if youre around Essex, i dont mind helping.

Fantastic turnout guys, all well behaved and we had an amazing strong showing which was rewarded I feel this year by giving us a premium spot. We were 100% the biggest club there by a large margin! @Keyser, your handy work on my arches got plenty of positive attention from club members and random show attendees alike! see you all there next year! ps, can anyone explain how I feel sunburnt please?!? Lol

I believe you still caught me up didn’t you? Fantastic turnout guys thanks, all 11 cars made it as far as I was aware! shame we couldn’t go in one big group, I believe we ended up in a pack of 6 and 5, but worked out well. same place same time next year!

See you all in the morning bright and early, gonna be a struggle keeping 10 cars in a convoy, but we shall do our best! appreciate the favourable response to this mini meet !

Luckily I managed to get a good coat of wax on with the DA this morning before the rain came, I’ve also dried it off 3 times today. Finally done, started at 10:30, finished at 6pm! Lol see you all tomorrow

Just taking a break for the 4th time because of hailstones. Literally I’m melting for about 30 mins, then out of nowhere, Hail! Grrrrrr! Anyone else being interrupted today? i did try and convince @Keyser to come and park us all up, but he was having none of it! Lol

If i was you, id aim for 8:30 mate, traffic is terrible on the way in and if youre not on the stand by 9AM, youre directed to the public car park.

Reserved by Umster for collection at japfest

Naa, they have either T or B. Tunnel or Bridge. If youre a T ticket, you'll get sent to the left as you enter the site, if you have a B ticket, youll get sent to the right to head to the back of the circuit infield via the bridge near the BRDC clubhouse. Due to the location of our stand, we will all be T ticket holders. That being said, if you're running super lows and genuinely cannot get under the tunnel, im sure you could ask to go the other way as all the infield roads join up anyway. Youd have to head to the bridge, turn right at the roundabout as you come off of the bridge, then when you get to the end of the road turn left to head up to the other side of the tunnel where our stand is, cutting out the tunnel completely. The letters and numbers on the ticket you hang in the car are massive because they're intended for the marshals to direct you to the correct location. They dont really care if its Tarmac or Grass, they just need to know which way to send you, hence Tunnel or Bridge Because im bored, we will be sent the red route (tunnel is highlighted in Yellow. But you could 9im sure) request to go the Bridge route shown in blue. Those infield roads are open as they're used for traffic movements in and out of the show, and its the route to get to the track if you're doing a track session. Will take you longer to get there though because you'll literally be driving through the entire show so will be queuing waiting for people to get onto their stands.

Im sure we will do when it happens this weekend @Silverthorn, our tickets say the stand location is T1, T means tunnel. Im pretty damn low (to the point where i cant tackle most speed bumps) and i dont scrape anywhere, just take it slow down the ramps both up and down, and give it some beans through the tunnel, thats what everyone does. PS, does anybody going to Japfest want these before i bin them? (Reserved by @Umster now)

Not really another vehicle update i guess, but last summer, the Z and i went on a hell of a road trip. I booked tickets to the Spa F1 race, and i couldn't think of a better vehicle to take, so the Z and i went on a 700 mile round trip to Spa and back. If you're reeeeeeeally bored. Heres a time-lapse of the drive which started at 2AM Our arrival time with lunch stops and toilet/refuelling breaks was mid-day! Didnt really take many photos, mostly videos, so heres some random shots of the journey. The Z all cleaned and shot part-way along the journey Ferry ride out was cold, but kinda cool, not been on a ferry before. Shame DFD Seaways ripped me off and made me pay £80 for a lower deck slot. Theirs absolutely no way in hell i would have cleared the ramp to get to the upper deck! Tucked up inside the ferry Some unheard of British drivers car was on display. Not really sure who he was, but peoples seemed interested Out spot for the race day. We got to track at 6AM that morning for a 12pm race start, purely to get a good spot, it paid off! Think this shot was from Saturday, but here's a Ferrari Not sure if i was allowed to be here, but after the race, i took the drone up and got a wide shot of the beautiful track. of course, you cant see the elevations here, i was exhausted after walking around this place for 3 days! Lastly, back at Dunkirk port, waiting for the ferry home. Car didnt miss a beat at all, she really showed her GT side, the entire drive, when with my BC BR coilovers, and stupidly loud Invidia exhaust was comfortable. Got plenty of approving thumbs up from the locals in France and Belgium, i didnt really see any other modified vehicles, and not a single other Z car at all!

Yes, where she belongs, on the drag strip I like the fact im the car of the month for Japfest month No photos of yesterdays work as its not interesting, but i fitted the new fuel cap lid/cover/flap thing @Keyser sent me after his angle grinder bit my last one, looks much better now! Lets just hope the weather holds out for cleaning on Saturday!!

Blending the new parts in with the original bodywork would probably have meant leaving the car at a bodyshop with the new panels for a week, tons of test fits etc etc, totally different job to how we did it. I didn't have the time, nor that kind of cash laying around In terms of cost, id say they go in this order, cheapest to most expensive (and time consuming) Fill the rusty spots with bodyfiller and paint. The option we did. Arch cut from donor car and time in bodyshop to weld in and paint the whole rear quarter panel. Blend in fibreglass panels (as fitted above) once mounted. Brand new panels from Nissam, remove old panels, spot weld new ones in. I went this way as its the cheapest option that will actually last longer than 6 months I don't want to be spending half the value of the car (or more) fixing an issue like this, it becomes unviable to keep it if that was done.

Supercharger and Nitrous kit! just what i want as my wedding present

But which one! Thanks again for your effort mate, very very much appreciated! @zelda It was nervy having someone cut into your car, i was just an apprentice basically! But i knew i was in safe hands and if we didn't do it, the issue wasn't just going to go away!

Hi all, checking in again after a pretty dormant time with the Z. Since the last update I have both moved house with my new fiance and been planning our wedding, so time and funds have been short. However, with Japfest coming this year, I wanted to do some things to really fix the tiredness the car is showing. The poor old girl is 15 years old now (!) and some aspects of the car were showing that, plus I need to tidy up some mods hastily done for last year’s Japfest. Lesson to self, don't rush a job, you'll only end up doing it twice! First order on the agenda, fix up the front lip! This was originally bought close to 4 or maybe even 5 years ago from Tarmac, I was never really interested in the hassle of making it fit, so it stuck around in my storage locker and then in the loft until last year when the week before Japfest 2018 I decided to paint it black and add it onto the car. Pro tip, don't rush paint prep! Less than 12 months later, the paint had badly cracked and was literally flaking away from the lip due to a lack of sanding and surface prep, likely I had some oils still on the plastic part. The old riv nuts were drilled out and new Pro Bolt anodised bolts put back in, secured to the car with the proper items for this job, rubber well nuts. It was repainted in black Plastidip with a clear over the top. We all know plastidip will never give a smooth surface like paint, but it looks a hell of a lot better then destroyed flaking nasty paint! so i'm happy with it! Next item was to replace my Nismo side stripes. The old eBay specials were badly faded and showing their age. A new eBay special kit was ordered and replaced like for like. Minus me messing up one cut and having to pay for a second set of stripes. Doh! And lastly, the most expensive of all of these mods. Like all of these cars (it seems) they seem to rust on the rear arches where the bumper joins the car, plus some self-inflicted wounds from a low wall and just general rusting metal in the old wheel arch lip. These photos were taken in 2017 for reference, the rot had crept much further than that by this time (2019) Passenger side rear of rear arch Drivers side rear of rear arch I had spoken to various body shops over the rear with the answers ranging from "We can only sand it, fill it and paint it" - this option wont last 6 months as the rust isn't cured, its just painted over "You need an entire new rear quarter panel and inner wheel arch skin" - Discussion stopped there, I don't even want to KNOW what the cost of that work would have been "Sure, we can cut it out, weld in and shape a new piece and paint it, that's £1k per side" - The cars only worth perhaps 4k at best, I'm not spending half the value of the car on this! So I just kept putting it off, I was sure there MUST be another way.... Then some money and time came up, so I got in touch with everyone's friend, @Keyser I had found that Chris over at Tarmac Sportz did some 15mm wide over fenders. These seemed a good plan as I didn't like the super dooooooper wide 50mm versions, that's not my look, but these were more tasteful. So with a few PM's, a few TXT messages and a few weeks of time, I made the pilgrimage to the most sacred of places. The Zed Shed II (Long live the Zed Shed I). Chris had, as usual been an amazing guy and armed only with my paint code, fully prepped, primer'd, painted and lacquered the new panels, and we were just hoping the fitment would be at least acceptable. Despite being the Zed Shed, Chris didn't have any Z's to test the panels on! One funny note I’d like to add in relation to our forum names and out actual first names. Cs2000 - Chris Tarmac Sports - Chris Keyser - Chris This made communication a little difficult at times! Anyway! before i arrived, i was sent these teaser shots of the current state of play. Primer'd and some body filler Painted, but no clear yet Clear coated The day came, and I pulled onto the hallowed ramps for two days of incredibly dirty work! After 47 cups of coffee for braveness, Keyser draws first blood.... The Z fought valiantly, but she could not withstand Keyser's almighty angle grinder! Before too long, she had relented and we could move in to survey the damage. OMG, rust! rust everywhere! There were large patches of rush even on the inner skin, towards the rear section where the bumper clips are, it was basically made entirely of rust. As much of the rust was removed as possible with the angle grinder, you can see the bare metal towards the front of the arches, which was treated in the next steps. The red paint is weld through primer. Anywhere where rust or paint was removed was sprayed with a super thick coat of primer to keep the now bare metal from rusting again. We then went to watch Tarmac Sportz's video staring Bob, formerly of Zed Shed fame to see what to do next. Chris and Bob being the old mates that they are, Chris decided to could do it better! Since we don't need to keep the same smooth arch line, Chris realised he could do less "fingering" as he kept referring to it, and that would give an easier time when it came to filling the gaps. Less gaps, less issues. These fingers were cut into the inner skin, then persuaded to bend with some pipe grips and then further persuaded with varying sizes of hammers! Until eventually they were flat enough that we were happy with them, this is part way... And done. You can see in some places there was just no metal to work with, so Keyser had some more coffee whist he thought of the next attack plan. Bob/Tarmac used rivets to hold the metal fingers to the outside of the body. Again, aesthetics aren't important here as this is all covered up. The name of the game here is just rigidity and then waterproofing. Keyser thought all that riveting sounded like too much manual labour, so he did what he does and whipped out a power tool, this time it was the welder. I wish I’d have gotten some more images of this, but I didn't want my eyeballs to melt out of my head or be seeing stars for a week from the arc flash. As you can see in the earlier photo, in some spots there’s just no metal to work with, but Keyser managed some very gentle edge welds and we got every single finger welded back to the car with no warping of the outer skin! These welds were then angle ground down a touch and given two thick coats of weld through primer. More because it was the only primer that came to hand rather than needing its weld-through-ability. Side note, that rust hole where the bumper attaches went clean through to the inner arch htt I skipped a photo here, but Keyser then applied two coats of pre-mixed fibreglass paste to basically fill up all of the holes and cover up all of the welds. After this, I retreated for fear of contracting some horrific disease from fibreglass dust. But Keyser donned the dust proof mask and sanded it all back with the flap wheel on a second angle grinder (one of 6 angle grinders under his ownership I'm told!) Notice the 350z suspension on the side of the shot, that the suspension destined for his ford Pop build, for now at least!! After much sanding, we had this, a nice, smooth and most importantly, waterproof again wheel arch Yes, this is the other side of the car, but it matters not! We then sprayed over another two thick coats of primer to protect the fibreglass And a shot of the new arches as they stood after day 1. We obviously did the same to both rear arches After a very long and filthy day of work, we stopped for the day to allow everything to fully harden, knowing that fitting fibreglass body pieces is never really simple we didn't feel like starting this on day 1. Time for bed. And you join us back on day 2! At this stage, we decided two pairs of hands weren't enough, so we asked Mrs Keyser to come and assist us ! After the new panel was placed against the car and we urmm's and ahh'd for a while, we decided we'd best start drilling some holes and see what happens. So, no turning back now. (like I could easily turn back from my primer red arches! haha) Many MANY more test fits of the panel, screwing in and then removing bolts one or two at a time, we finally had a good (and thanks to Mrs Keyser, an even) distribution of well nuts installed in the side panel. Don't mind the little nick on the filler cap, the flap wheel on the angle grinder bit it! Thats being fixed later. And Boom! just like that, the panel was bolted down! In all reality, this was probably 60-90 mins of work. The filler cap hole could really do with a slight amount of over-sizing to make fitment easier. But I hear these panels are loved by the guys doing drifting where the finish isn't all that important. The love the fact they can get wider arches, and bolt them on and off again when they inevitably get smashed up! But we ended up with a really good fitment. After a slight detour into the boot to remove the stubby (didn't want to cut a hole in fully painted panels, so it was a necessity) Mrs Keyser measured the well nut holes matched the other side, Keyser drilled them all out and I popped them into the body. Side number 2 bolted in place pretty quickly due to the fact you don't have to work around the filler cap on this side. So that was job (almost) done, time for another side shot, clearly showing the 15mm extension at work. Note what i said earlier here around the filler cap. It could do with some further trimming to make it sit 100% flat, but we were loathed to do this as the pieces were fully painted before there were test fitted on a car. I enthusiastically bolted on the new 15mm JR spacers, popped the wheel onto the studs and... they didn't fit! Turns out, with my wheel offset, the OEM wheel studs were fouling the back face of the wheel. Rather that cut down the OEM studs, we decided to enlarge the secondary holes on the JR wheels (they're multi-fitment wheels) to allow the OEM studs to fit into the unused holes. This was done in a matter of minutes, but was a perfectly successful fit no casualties! And with that, she was rolled out of the Shed, very quickly jet washed as the car had literally turned white with fibreglass dust! After a little coffee break and a chat, I began the long drive home. But couldn't resist an ass shot in a service station on the way back! I also have had to order yet another set of Nismo side stripes since my 4-5-week-old stripes are now covered by the new wings! As for what's next? Under suggestion from Keyser, I ordered some truck bed liner to spray inside of the wheel arches to both make them black again, but also to restore the semi protective rubbery coating that's in the wheel arches from factory. To do this I needed to unbolt the new panels which was nice and easy and spray it in But Pro-Tip. Don’t do this on a windy day! I ended up with a rubbery black over spray literally all over the doors, boot and bumper, even though I had masked up, the wind whipped up the particles and dumped them everywhere, which I found 3 days after id sprayed!!! So, how do you remove paint that’s cured on top of existing paint without removing the existing paint…. meguiars shampoo and a good scrub? Fail. “Sticky Stuff Remover”? Fail. Allow wheel cleaner spray? Fail. So, I had to consult the internet, as my next thought was carb cleaner. It would have 100% gotten it off in seconds, but I know that’s basically paint thinner, soooo perhaps a little too aggressive! What ended up working was a microfibre and a can of petrol originally destined for the lawn mower. Soak a spot on the cloth, rub it in and with some elbow grease the black spray started to lift. The solvents in the fuel lasted for about 5-10 seconds, even though the cloth was still wet with fuel, so I kept adding more and eventually removed the mess. To clean-up any fuel or oily residue still on the paint, the areas were sprayed with a wax and grease remover, then cleaned off, then sprayed with wheel cleaner and cleaned off and finally some meguiars shampoo and washed as normal. Yes, my wax coat is now shot, but since the day before Japfest the car is being DA compounded, polished and waxed, I would already be destroying my wax coat anyway, so I’m not bothered. Just want to say a massive thanks to @Keyser as he worked his ass off. Taking both a weekend out of his personal time, and working on the hottest two days we have had so far this year. I’m sure he would rather have been on the beach or something. Mrs Keyser kept us supplied with drinks and measurement/levelling advice too and @Tarmac@TarmacSportz for getting the parts out quickly and the moulds being relatively good. I know my car is "nothing special" compared to some of the stunners on this forum. But I love her! and having an amazing community like this around these cars, chock full of brilliant product supplier and genuinely nice people makes this club the best one I’ve ever been in by miles. I hope some people at Japfest notice this subtle but very work intensive mod. It was actually done 2 weeks before the show, but has been kept under wraps because.....well I don't know, I wanted it to be ! haha. Feel free to come and say hi if you see me around the car Anyway, until next time ! Oh and @Keyser. Maximum effort

From previous years, i think it was 8:30 or something, either way, the earlier we get there, the less traffic you sit in, hence why we leave south mimms at 6:40

Yes, that did happen, cant remember who it was now! We missed the turning off of the M1 so had to double back. Funny thing was, every car in the convoy followed him

One more of these left guys as mentioned above. Dont really want it laying around, so if someone wants it, its yours for £30. Just drop me a PM to confirm. First PM gets it. After that, i think im out of this game, got some more projects i want to move onto.

Biggest turn out for this little convoy yet! Weathers looking good too for us thankfully! Me and my copilot should be on site by something like 6:15-20 and we will be rolling out by 6:40 The guys at the BP station have never given us any trouble for meeting in there as nobody else meets there, at lest they haven't in the last 3 years we have met there, we don't clog up their site as we usually meet on the left hand side as you drive in, the parking bays there are usually empty at that time of the morning. Worth checking on this forum post if you struggle to find us, il be checking in, trying to find anyone that gets lost, or if we have to change locations on site. Just as a reminder for anyone that hasn't been on this route/to Japfest before. For large sections of the M25 and M1, there are speed cameras on the side, or above the motorway gantry's, so, i mean, drive how you want, but just be aware they're there. Whoever ends up leading (i did for large chunks of last year) needs to remember that too (my sat-nav tells me the locations so if i happen to doing 71mph, its "safe" to do so). Also, once we turn off of the M1, you'll know, it looks like you're turning into a services, just cool it WAY down. There will be a police speed gun in almost every single lay-by in the last few miles to Japfest, there has been every single year Sorry if i sound like your mum i just dont want anyone's day to be ruined by points and a fine!

Haha no mate, not at all! I just thought your forum post and PM were the same thing so didn't read it, my mistake for assuming! im always open to suggestions. Theirs usually a practical reason for doing things, such as the bullet connector sizes in this case, but i always listen! sure mate, will see you there. If you wanna come track me down during the setup phase in the morning, I’m OO04 MYZ. Silver with Nismo stripes, black sidesteps, front lip etc.

Sorry! I saw you had posted in here asking for help the other week so admit I didn’t read the pm. Im more than happy to bring you another switch, think I have a spare unit laying around. Il bring one to Japfest for you. as for the wires. I have actually gone thinner with this module batch, I used to use 20awg, this is 18. The issue isn’t as such the wire, but the fact that red crimps are the smallest one you can easily get, they only do red, blue and yellow (which are both larger) anyway, come find me at Japfest, or il find you, and I can give you the switch