Jump to content

rm cya

Members
  • Posts

    268
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by rm cya

  1. Haha that looks turd mate! Buy cheap but twice and all that! I got a beastie SnapOn 18v gun. 600ftlb breaking torque I didn't have to loosen the rear camber bolt. Was enough movement to get it out. Was tight but managed. Fronts, when pulling the strut out, lean down on the top of the disc and it should be enough movement to pull the strut out.
  2. Do you have a battery gun? I managed to buzz it right off without having to use spanners. And you don't need the 'box spanners'. Normal spanners with the slightly angled ring end work fine.
  3. How lean can these engines run with HFCs/decats?
  4. thought id whack this up as a how to for people found this video on the tube aswel. It really is simple. Done mine the other day. Fronts: - Remove strutbrace 12mm nuts + bolts (you don't need to loosen the adjustment, just whizz out the mounting bolts) - remove wheels - remove lower suspension leg bolt (17mm socket + spanner on other end) - remove anti rollbar droplink nut - 17mm. Buzz it off with a gun. - upper wishbone bolts either side of suspension leg - 14mm spanner - top mount nuts, 3 12mm nuts - 12mm brake pipe nut - pull off abs sensor from leg brackets (2) - Pull suspension leg back a bit to remove the 2 14mm upper wishbone bolts fully. - Wangle out leg. - Compress spring - gun off 17mm top mount nut - pull off spring - Fit eibach spring against the seat stops (no need to compress) - copper grease top mount so it don't creak - fit top mount - gun up top mount. Refit. Remember before you locate the 3 top mount studs back in the strut tower, line up the upper wishbone and slide the bolts in. Rears: - Remove wheel - jack under spring cup - undo 17mm nut and bolt holding spring cup to hub. - no need to undo the back bolt. - lower cup. push down by hand/foot - remove spring. - leave the top rubber in place - remove bottom rubber. Clean + fit to spring against stop - push down cup/seating arm - Fit spring - jack up till hole aligned - do up 17mm but and bolt. Job done
  5. Looks sooooooo much better without...
  6. pretty sure he had a private plate aswel cant remember it for the life of me though i was in the derv anyways, otherwise they would have heard me and my unsilenced decats paired up to a Nismo
  7. Possibly mate! But if you weren't on the A4 down that far there's someone else kicking about local! Exhaust looked stock whereas you got an after market right? Was heading down from Gilette corner, past PC world towards chiswick direction.
  8. About 8.30pm ish, Black Zed, debadged with just a 'Z' in the centre of the boot. Driving down the A4. Think it had Rota Grids or GTRs on it.
  9. Brilliant!! Obviously sick of people parking close and denting his doors. But in this case.... Hes been done up the bum.
  10. Had to compress mine to remove the stock ones. Couldn't loosen the top mount till pressure was off it. But fitting the Eibach Pro's, didn't need to at all. Top mount flopped on nicely.
  11. It really is simple mate. Done mine the other day. Fronts: - Remove strutbrace 12mm nuts + bolts (you don't need to loosen the adjustment, just whizz out the mounting bolts) - remove wheels - remove lower suspension leg bolt (17mm socket + spanner on other end) - remove anti rollbar droplink nut - 17mm. Buzz it off with a gun. - upper wishbone bolts either side of suspension leg - 14mm spanner - top mount nuts, 3 12mm nuts - 12mm brake pipe nut - pull off abs sensor from leg brackets (2) - Pull suspension leg back a bit to remove the 2 14mm upper wishbone bolts fully. - Wangle out leg. - Compress spring - gun off 17mm top mount nut - pull off spring - Fit eibach spring against the seat stops (no need to compress) - copper grease top mount so it don't creak - fit top mount - gun up top mount. Refit. Rears: - Remove wheel - jack under spring cup - undo 17mm nut and bolt holding spring cup to hub. - no need to undo the back bolt. - lower cup. push down by hand/foot - remove spring. - leave the top rubber in place - remove bottom rubber. Clean + fit to spring against stop - push down cup/seating arm - Fit spring - jack up till hole aligned - do up 17mm but and bolt. Job done
  12. Nismo + unsilenced decats. Still waiting to get an outside vid.
  13. Nismo + unsilenced decats. Still waiting to get an outside vid.
  14. rm cya

    30mm spacers

    I've just fitted the eibach pro kit. Looks amazing but don't want to mess the arches up.
  15. rm cya

    30mm spacers

    I've just fitted the eibach pro kit. Looks amazing but don't want to mess the arches up.
  16. rm cya

    30mm spacers

    Afterthought - what about running a bit of stretch on the stock rays? 30mm looks so good!!
  17. rm cya

    30mm spacers

    Afterthought - what about running a bit of stretch on the stock rays? 30mm looks so good!!
  18. You got a pic of the juke satnav?
  19. You got a pic of the juke satnav?
  20. rm cya

    30mm spacers

    Haha it's not that bad, torqued everything up and it's all fine, but would rather have just one plate fitted. Does anyone run 30mm spacers on the rear without arch work? Wondering now if I should just stick to 25s
  21. rm cya

    30mm spacers

    Haha it's not that bad, torqued everything up and it's all fine, but would rather have just one plate fitted. Does anyone run 30mm spacers on the rear without arch work? Wondering now if I should just stick to 25s
  22. rm cya

    30mm spacers

    perfect mate, pm sent! thought i had 25 on the rear, measured today when fitting the Eibach springs and its only 20mm. popped to halfrauds, picked up their 9.5mm spacers, but not comfortable with how they fit. put them on the inside of the eibach spacers, but not enough thread on the lugs for the spacer nuts.
×
×
  • Create New...