goodatcrashing

Don't even need a glass mounted Aerial. I rerouted the original aerial and mounted it inside the rear cross beam. Picks up radio fine. Filled the hole to keep it all smooth. You could then mount a fake arial fin on the roof if thats the look you want.

Any chance you would split for the VS lip only?

The wing mirrors are heated. They turn on when you turn on the rear window de-mister. Took me 12 months to realise this.

Strangely, I find 75 - 80 the most economical. Although this does go against the exponential increase in rolling and air resistance. I suspect it's because there is less accelerating/decelerating on journeys at slightly above 70 as most other road users tend to sit at around 65 - 70.

Well done. You must have done some smooth talking. Im still in a heated arguement with Nissan over my corrosion. They are using every possible excuse under the sun to why it is not covered.

If he listed it as "Rat rod", it would easily fetch another 30K

Bit of an update; new hub and upper wishbone fitted which pulled the alignment back to almost zero. Using my eye alignment kit it looks about right. Off to the alignment shop to get everything set up good and proper. Thanks for the advice

Im going to take a bit of everyone's advice and replace the hub and wishbone then take it to an alignment shop. I'll update after its been done. Thanks for the advice

For Alex, a picture of the suspension arms replaced are shown below: Huge thanks to Alex for methodically going through all the possible causes

Very true. Is 10 deg toe out too much for the toe/camber arms to correct? I shall take it to an alignment shop to get their oppinion. Im starting to suspect the hub or upper control arm is also bent a very small amount.

Just been out to check the car and the bolts are on correctly. Damn, it would have been such an easy fix if they weren't! For reference, the pic below shows the correct orientation on the left and incorrect on the right:

I think you may be right, they are directional. Just playing with a spare set and you can fit the spacer on the wrong way round (bad design). I'll check the car and make sure they are correct. Will PM Alex too

I see how the cam bolts adjust the toe and camber, but not how they can be fitted incorrectly?

I adjusted this bolt to its toe-in limit ie. the bolt head centre line is rotated furthest to the outside. Despite this, there is still the toe out.

I dont see how these can be fitted incorrectly? It wouldn't make a difference if the washer were above the centre line or below would it?

I visually inspected the subframe and nothing seems to be noticeably out of shape in comparison to the other side. What do you mean by the adjustment eyes?

Hi all, The story: I had a bit of slow speed contact with the offside rear wheel and a kerb one wet evening. This bent the toe and camber arms. The solution: Replacement rear suspension arms were sourced off another 05 car and fitted no problem (mine is a 53). The parts replaced include; Front lower link (camber arm), Rear lower link (spring cup) and Radius rod (toe arm). I checked the dimensions of the new parts were the same as the originals. The only mistake made during the installation was loosening the rear subframe bolt (the one that goes through the rear member stay) by accident but tightened it back up after realising. Once all these were fitted, I dropped the car back on the ground then tightened all 6 bolts. The problem: The wheel now has a huge amount of toe out. I adjusted the Rear lower link to its limit to try and solve the toe but it still has about 10 deg toe out. The nearside rear wheel was unharmed so I compared all the suspension components, which look similar. The request: HELP! What am I doing wrong? Did loosening the subframe bolt allow it to shift? Are there any important installation procedures I may have missed? Any other suggestions to what may be causing the toe out? Thanks in advanced for any suggestions!

Took mine into the dealers today for bubbling on both rear arches, the usual pictures were taken. They phoned back wanting me to take the car in for "paint thickness checks". Apparently they like to find out if its ever been resprayed and may try to wiggle out if it has. Fingers crossed. manphibian, did they check your paint thickness?

I do alot of Newcastle to Manchester trips and the little dials like DTE help keep me entertained (for a couple of seconds). I'll try 60 on my next trip if it doesnt drive me insane. I think the DTE changes depending on your immediate average fuel consumption. ie. if your getting 10mpg the computer calculates the remaining distance based on that. If you then go from 10 to 30mpg, the computer re calculates the remaining distance using the new figure. Hence your DTE 25 mile difference between London and Cambridge was because you improved your fuel consumption. I have seen my DTE go up as im driving!

Am I the only one who finds the most fuel efficient speed around 80 - 85? Dropping to 70 seems to reduce fuel economy by 2mpg. Designed as a grand tourer, I thought it would have been optimised for higher speeds. *obviously, tested on a private road *

The guys at the MOT station yesterday were almost fighting over my keys to drive it onto the ramps. Nice to see considering there were some top Mercs, Beemers and Maserati's waiting to be tested in front of mine. My favourite time was seeing a guy leaning against my parked car flirting with a nice lady. That was until I walked up and got in it.

Embarrassingly, this has happened to me on more than one occasion

Was poking my head around this during JAE last week. Stunning! This must have been one of the only few at the show that were tasetfully modified.

The number of randomers that ask me to take them for a spin is incredible. Plenty also ask to drive it but I politely let them know where to go.

Ill take these PM'ed