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About roadtrip

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  1. I'd say it's a DE with 280PS, the Rev-up had a facelifted interior, headlights, rear lights and front bumper which this car doesn't have. According to Cazana it was registered on 1st March 2006 so cheaper pre-23rd March vehicle tax of £325 instead of £570.
  2. I think they were £65 for a pair which I think is expensive for what they are, especially as they didn't seem any better than the ones they replaced. Foolishly I threw out the original ones before properly testing the new ones.
  3. I got some from Clark Motorsport last year so might be worth dropping Ewan a PM as well.
  4. 1. Yes it's the speed rating, Wikipedia explains it: Tire code 2. Depends on the manufacturer and despite the width number on the sidewall, the actual tyre width can vary significantly between brands. These are the sizes that Bridgestone suggest for your rear wheels: 275/40 to 285/40, 265/35 to 305/35 and 285/30 to 305/30.
  5. Here's a video which explains a bit about the main different manufacturing methods: WHICH TYPE OF WHEEL SHOULD YOU BUY? If you want different size wheels or a different style then I agree with Ekona in that there are some reasonable and cheap wheels about that most people will be happy with. The wheels you have now would probably be at least 4x the price of the Ultralite ones if you were to buy them new. As you want the same size and similar style to what you've already got then a refurb would seem to me the better option and you don't have to keep the diamond cut edges either if you don't like that about them.
  6. Most wheels are aluminium alloy, it's how they're made rather than what they're made of that makes the difference. Those wheels look to be about £520 a set which in my mind means they're probably cast. I don't know anything about Ultralite but be aware that some cast wheels are prone to cracks and failure. They design them to look like expensive forged wheels, possibly Advan in this case, which means they're not as strong and possibly less likely to take the sort of punishment a forged one would. It's obviously personal preference but I don't think the design of them is different enough to the wheels you already have to justify the significantly lower quality wheel. Have you considered just repainting your current wheels which would be both cheaper and less compromised?
  7. I'm sure 35mm front and 20mm rear will be fine as others run offsets at least 10mm lower than that without problems. As far as handling goes, my experience with the 350Z would suggest that if you drop the front offset a lot from standard you might notice the steering feeling different but it may not bother you. I'm happy with 20mm reduction, it's a bit like getting used to the slightly different steering of a different car. I'm sure I read somewhere that dropping the front offsets by 7mm would be maximum before any negative affects are felt due to increasing the scrub radius. If you're concerned about it then stay with 33mm or more, assuming the wheel width is the same. The rear offsets aren't affected in the same way so not so much to worry about. If it was me I would much more concerned by the weight of the new wheels. I've tried both forged Rays and cast 5zigen wheels on my car, both being 19" and the same widths, with similar offsets, the ride and performance was definitely affected far more noticeably with the heavier wheels. As you have light wheels already I wouldn't recommend wheels significantly heavier but then some people will almost certainly disagree!
  8. I've not looked to see if they're cheaper anywhere else. If looking elsewhere just make sure you get the facelift HR ones as the earlier ones definitely won't fit your '06 model.
  9. Torqen have some genuine clear reflectors: 350z HR Nismo JDM Front Side Clear Corner Reflectors Markers
  10. 8.5" front with 9.5" rear would probably be my choice too. Offset may be more tricky depending though because that website suggests that 25 is as low as they go and possibly 35 in the 8.5" width. With 245/40 front and 275/40 rear you'd probably want an offset of 20 to 25 on the front and 20 to 30 on the rear. If you have the standard 225/45 front and 245/45 rear not only would the rear possibly be overstretched but you'd probably want offsets about 10 lower than that, so 10 to 15 front and 10 to 20 rear. Just my opinion though having played around with a few different wheels over the years.
  11. It looks like those wheels come in 8.5, 9.5 and 10.5" widths. If you want to use the standard tyre sizes then you're going to be limited to 8.5", if you go for wider tyres with something like 245/40 or 255/40 on the front and 275/40 on the rear then you could safely have 8.5" front with 9.5" rear or 9.5" front with 10.5" rear, depending on whether you prefer more tyre to protect your rims or a more stretched look.
  12. No problem. The stud thing has been asked so many times over the years, I just thought I'd pre-empt it as people sometimes panic when they see it.
  13. Yep, you got it. Also: 1. Make sure you get spacers with built-in studs. 2. You'll probably need to remove a small extra stud from the front hubs which just unscrews, this is to make sure the OEM rear wheels aren't accidentally fitted to the front. 3. Check with your insurer that they are happy with the new wheels.
  14. I don't think the tyre costs are massively different. I went for Michelin Pilot Super Sport and they where about £740 when I got them 20 months ago but there are many cheaper options. I used to live in an area with some big hills, winter tyres was the only way I could get about sometimes when not driving wasn't an option. I paid £666 for my Hankook winter tyres in OEM sizes. Even though I've now moved and so they're not strictly necessary anymore I still put them on each year since I already have them and they're great in cold weather. Saves wearing out the summer tyres too. Really it's the tyre choice that makes the difference in winter more than the widths unless there's snow in which case a narrower tyre is better.



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